Showing posts with label France - Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France - Paris. Show all posts

May 13, 2009

Casual Eats in Paris

Paris is one of my favorite eating destinations in the world. In addition to the high concentration of Michelin star restaurants, it is filled with neighborhood shops and restaurants offering all kinds of edible treats – savory and sweet.

Macarons: I looooooooove these sweet and colorful confections. After having coffee and pastries at the famed Dalloyau, I stopped by their downstairs shop to admire their beautiful displays. I couldn’t resist their wide variety of macaron flavors – I had to get one of each! They were wonderfully light and chewy underneath the delicately crisp exterior.


Soufflé: I should have known that with a name like Le Soufflé, the restaurant would have a lot of tourists, but it was still a decent place for large, hearty soufflés at wallet-friendly prices. I liked the cream of chicken and mushroom soufflé – although it was quite heavy for a soufflé, I enjoyed the warm, rich sauce drizzled inside the fluffy dome. For dessert, I tried the chocolate and the Grand Marnier soufflés – neither were very interesting. I’ve had much better versions of both in the U.S.
Baguette: It is so simple, yet so enjoyable - a crispy baguette with cheese. There is nothing like picking up a loaf of fresh baked bread and spreading rich, creamy cheese over it….Mmmm.
Pastries: Éclair, pain au Chocolat, fruit tart, mille-feuille…these are some of my favorite dessert pastries. I dream of their decadent fillings and flaky layers.
Pâté: After walking around the crowded Marché Buci, B and I were pleased to stumble upon Da Rosa while walking down a quiet street. It’s a hip little delicatessen with legs of cured jambon in the windows and a few tables on the side walk. Since this was supposed to be a “light snack”, we ordered a salad (which contained a deliciously fresh and sweet mozzarella), sliced jambon, and pâté. I’ve never had pâté do me in, but this was *the* largest mound of pâté I’ve ever had. It had nice rustic and meaty texture and a fatty, peppery taste.

Ramen: Yes, ramen! After several days filled with lots of wine and heavy French food, my palate was screaming for something different. The huge bowl of hot soupy ramen from Higuma offered a nice break to reset my taste buds…and the perfect hangover cure!



BITE METER:
Dalloyau - 3.5 bites (out of 5)
Le Soufflé - 2.5 bites (out of 5)
Da Rosa - 4.0 bites (out of 5)
Higuma - 3.0 bites (out of 5)

Biking Around Paris

There is so much to see (and eat!) in Paris, and a great way to enjoy the sights around this sprawling city is by bicycle. For such a metropolitan city, it’s surprisingly very bike friendly (their mayor has been a big advocate for expanding the bike lanes around Paris).

Fat Tire offers great bike tours around the city. I especially liked the night tour which includes a boat ride along the Seine River – it was exhilarating zooming around at night with the cool wind in my face as the city lights twinkled all around me.

Under the Eiffel Tower – over 10,000 tons of iron

Place des Vosges – a picturesque square built by Henri IV

Charming little street in St. Germain – great neighborhood filled with small boutiques and restaurants
Canons lined up outside Les Invalides (buildings devoted to French military history and burial site for Napolean)
Seine River and one of its 37 bridges in Paris

The back of the Notre Dame Cathedral and its flying buttresses

Latin Quarter – another great neighborhood to explore

Louvre courtyard – much prettier in the evening light
Arc de Triomphe, built to honor soldiers who fought for France

The illuminated Eiffel Tower and Seine at night

Passing by the Academie Française on a boat ride along the Seine River

Glittering as the clock strikes midnight

May 12, 2009

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée – A Magical Night

I don’t even know where to begin. Simply put, this was one of the most amazing meals I’ve had in my life. The food, the staff, the ambience…everything flowed together seamlessly. It was like sitting centerstage to an elaborate and graceful waltz.
The restaurant is located inside the posh Hotel Plaza Athénée (for you Sex And The City fans, this was where the finale was filmed). ‘Glamorous’ was the first word that came to mind as I walked into Restaurant Alain Ducasse. I was dazzled from the very beginning by luxuriously chic décor and the huge glittering chandeliers which were further amplified by delicate strands of crystals hanging from the ceiling. We had a cozy corner table with a view of the entire dining room - which also made it easy for me to discreetly take photos of the food. :-)

Despite being such a lavish restaurant, the vibe was neither stuffy nor rigid. The staff was very professional and attentive, yet still amiable. They made us feel quite comfortable although we did not speak French. They even praised me when I tried to answer them in the few French words I did know.

When I saw their champagne cart, I thought “Wow, this must be *the* champagne cart that all other restaurants have been trying to emulate!” It was enormous and elegant, overflowing with champagne bottles…how could we resist not starting off with some fine bubbly?! The sommelier also recommended a phenomenal burgundy to accompany our meal (I wish I had written the name down). The wine was complex and had so many layers, yet still delicate and silky. Bordeaux style wines have always been king to me, but now I wonder if it’s because I haven’t had the right pinots. Now onto the Chef's Tasting Menu…

Steamed Langoustines with Iranian Osetra Caviar and Langoustine Consommé – PERFECTION. I turned into a pool of happiness as I ate this dish…could this dinner possibly get any better?? (Fortunately, yes!) The langoustine was sweet and delicate, perfectly balanced with the salty, blissful bursts of the caviar. The consommé was smooth and warm. What I loved most about this dish was although the ingredients were quite indulgent, the flavors stayed clean and focused.
Warm Preparation of Asparagus and Sea Spider Crab – The frothy crab foam added a fun and light touch to the asparagus. Although I couldn’t see it, I could taste the wonderful crab flavor in the fluffy, airy foam. Cold Preparation of Creamed Asparagus and Sea Spider Crab – I really enjoyed eating this dish – digging into the creamy asparagus pudding and finding the sweet, succulent crab meat at the bottom…a buried treasure.
Roasted Blue Lobster in Spicy Curry Sauce – What a feast for the eyes (and lips)! I was captivated by the bold colors – never have I seen such vibrant red in lobster before. This dish also contained a myriad of different tastes and textures. One would think with so much going on, this dish could be muddled or overwhelming, but each component enhanced the other – the meaty roasted lobster, drenched in rich curry sauce, sprinkled with thin, crunchy coconut slides and tiny tapioca pearls, garnished with crispy fried Thai basil – a wonderful medley! (Btw, this was totally different than the lobster curry entree I had at miX, Ducasse’s Las Vegas outpost. The food there wasn’t bad, but is eons away from meeting the standards of its big brother). Just when I think I am done being wowed, Sébastien wheels over a beautiful silver cart with a whole chicken. Now I’ve enjoyed many tableside preparations before, but never has chicken been special enough to be featured. (I later learned that Bresse chicken is a highly coveted breed of chickens only raised in France). Sebastien is a pro with the carving knife and deftly slices up the breast for us. Bresse Chicken Fricassée, Sweetwater Crawfish, and Spring Vegetables – Never have I had such incredible chicken in my life! It’s hard to describe because this was unlike any other chicken that I’ve ever had, the flavors were so uniquely clean and pure. It was served at just the right temperature, leaving the meat deliciously moist and juicy. The skin was also perfectly roasted and well seasoned. Although the crawfish and vegetables were on the side, they were just as tasty as the chicken. Growing up near Louisiana, I’ve been spoiled by a lot of fresh crawfish, but I have to say it has never been as sweet and succulent as it was in this dish. The dark meat of the Bresse Chicken in pureed baby peasThis is the mother of all cheese carts. There were at least 40 different cheeses under the enormous glass dome. I loooooooooove cheese and felt like a kid in a candy shop…so many cheeses, so hard to chose. [Clearly my wine consumption has affected my ability to focus the camera.] Aged Comté, Munster-Géromé, Fourme d’Ambert Blue, Triple Cream Brie – Although I was kindly encouraged to have as many cheeses as I wanted, I restrained myself and chose four (plus I knew I could taste the cheese selections that B picked as well). I don’t know if it was because the cheese was unpasteurized, or because it was from France, or because it was on the Alain Ducasse cart…perhaps all three, but my goodness, it was the BEST CHEESE EVER! They were also served with these magnificent olive rolls which further enhance the taste of the cheeses. In addition to the cheese course, we also had a procession (yes, a whole procession) of desserts. Thank goodness I always have an extra stomach for dessert.

Petite Lemon-Crème Filled Cakes – The tangy lemon was a nice way to wake up our palates after rich cheese. Fried Crisps with Passion Fruit Syrup, Chocolate and Coffee Macaroons – The fried crisps were unbelievably light and airy. I only like macaroons when they are made just right, and these did not disappoint…slightly crispy on the outside and sublimely thick and moist on the inside. The coffee macaroons were especially tasty.
Wild Baby Strawberry, Panna Cotta and Coconut Shortbread Parfait – This dessert looks simple, but there was such extraordinary depth to all the flavors!! By far, my favorite dessert of the evening. Rich coconut folded in sweet strawberries and creamy panna cotta…absolutely divine. Wild Baby Strawberry Tart – The sister dish to the parfait with a similar flavor profile, but different textures. The baby strawberries were so cute and surprisingly sweet and juicy. Raspberry and Dark Chocolate Cake with Raspberry Ice Cream – This dessert was good, but probably the least interesting to me. Chocolate Soufflé – A perfectly made soufflé…a delicate outer shell with sweet, fluffy goodness on the inside. What really stood out about this soufflé was how refined its flavor and texture was.
Although I didn’t take a picture of it, I have to mention their tea cart. It contained several live plants about 1-2 feet high. And depending on what type of tea you ordered, they would snip certain leaves from the cart and specially brew it for your tea – this restaurant is seriously over the top!!

The candy cart was tempting, but I was so full that I only had room for their house-made marshmallow. Before we knew it, 4 hours had flown by and we were the last ones in the dining room…I didn’t want the night to end! This meal has redefined so many things for me and heightened food to a whole newlevel. I was constantly being blown away by the presentation and the execution of each course, savoring every single minute of it….all 240 of them. Thank you to the staff at Restaurant Alain Ducasse (and my wonderful husband!) for making this night so memorable.


BITE METER: Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée - 5.0 bites (out of 5)

May 11, 2009

Musée Rodin

One of my favorite museums – I highly recommend visiting the Musée Rodin. It provides the perfect setting to appreciate the movement and emotion conveyed by Rodin’s sculptures.

The beautiful grounds and museum building















“The Thinker”
















Rodin liked to use dancers and street performers as models















Auguste Rodin
















My favorite piece, "The Gates of Hell"






















View of the exquisitely manicured grounds from inside the building















“The Kiss”






















Amazed by Rodin’s ability to make sculptures appear so delicate and life-like

May 10, 2009

Pierre Gagnaire – The Meal that Kept Going…and Going

It’s hard for me to write about my dinner at Pierre Gagnaire after experiencing the best meal of my life (so far) at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée the night after. The food and service at Pierre Gagnaire were good, but didn’t inspire me – which was surprising since Pierre Gagnaire is hailed as a master of modern French cuisine (3 Michelin stars and ranked a Top 10 World’s Best by Restaurant magazine).

I was intrigued by the first few courses, but then got weighed down by the monotony of the heavy sauces from the following courses – it made the 4 hour meal go by so slowly. They should have included an intermezzo to wake up my taste buds between the savory courses or at least had more contrasting flavor profiles to keep the dinner exciting. I felt like I was eating forever! I literally had to step outside twice during the dinner for fresh air to help me make it through the 14 courses – the first time I’ve ever had to take a break from a chef’s tasting menu.

Artistic array of amuse bouches
Blue Fin Tuna & Conch in Garden Chervil Bisque - the plating was exquisite! The chervil bisque heightened the wonderful flavors of the tuna and conch.
Vegetable 'Crepe' Filled with Crab in Coriander Cream
Fish and Parmesan Crisp in Pea Soup with Cider
Turkish Morels, Squid Carpaccio, & Radishes in Creamy Wine Reduction - the morels were delicious, but they didn’t go well with the other components…the combination of textures was strange. The squid carpaccio had no taste and confused the dish.
Oven-roasted Baby Red Snapper over Pressed Seaweed – the fish was beautifully cooked. The pressed seaweed looked nice on the plate, but its flavor was off.
Onion Gratin with Pistachio, Spinach, & Foie Gras – an extremely rich dish, the foie gras was amazing. I also enjoyed the crunchy texture of the pistachios. However, I started to feel quite overwhelmed by all the heavy, brown sauces at this point. The portions were also too big (never thought I’d say that at nice meal!) – I couldn’t believe I was just halfway through dinner…
Blue Lobster and Bresse Chicken in Burgundy Sauce - one of my favorite courses. The Bresse chicken was so moist and had a wonderfully light and clean flavor…a rare instance were chicken actually outshines lobster!
Roquefort Cheese & Lemon Peel Terrine in Citrus Foam – finally an exciting dish with some pizzazz! I loved the interplay of the rich, pungent blue cheese with the tart lemon peel – a perfectly balanced dish. This was my other favorite course of the evening…I could literally eat it every day.
Gold Leaf Encrusted Sauterne Gelée accompanied by the most delightful Petit Fours – the Sauterne gelée was bright, yet complex and each of the petit fours had deliciously unique and distinctive flavors (I wish the entire dinner would have been executed in this manner).
Passion Fruit Cream & Black Sesame Wafer - the tartness of the passion fruit overpowered this dessert
Banana and Chocolate Cake
Dark Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream, Raspberry Parfait, and ? – these 3 desserts were brought out at the same time and I can’t remember what was in the small cup…most likely a coffee/espresso based dessert with ice cream. Needless to say, it was unmemorable. The other 2 desserts were also just ok.


Overall, I enjoyed my experience at Pierre Gagnaire. The atmosphere was relaxed and comfortable for a fine dining establishment, a contributing factor being the slightly dated décor. There were some incredible high notes, although I found myself bored by the food at times. I think if a menu consists of so many courses, it must have a wide and diverse range of flavors and textures in order to keep diners interested - this is the main reason I would not come back here…plus there are so many other great restaurants in Paris.

BITE METER: Pierre Gagnaire – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)