Fleur de Lys – A Special Place in the Heart of San Francisco

Walking into Fleur de Lys is like being transported into somewhere far, far away. It’s sexy and romantic, people speak in hushed tones, and there’s plush crimson draping everywhere…like being inside a luxurious Moroccan tent. The dining room is like no other place in San Francisco, or anywhere else I’ve been. B and I were dining with some close friends, so we appreciated the great corner table – it added to the intimacy of the restaurant.

The service was excellent. Our waiter knew every obscure detail about the wine and food and gave us fantastic descriptions as we fired away questions about the various menu items. In addition, the entire staff was so welcoming and pleasant. Fleur de Lys is THE FRIENDLIEST FRENCH RESTAURANT I’ve been to…still puts a smile on my face. :-)

In regards to the food, it was good but some of the dishes relied a little too much on “luxury ingredients” to make an impression. Almost everything on the menu had foie gras in it. Being a foie-fanatic, that’s almost always a good thing, but the foie gras was unnecessary in some of these already rich dishes and just weighed them down. I was actually more impressed by Chef Hubert Keller’s more innovative interpretations on French cuisine than his preparation of the classics.

Amuse bouche – chilled asparagus soup and cherry tomato “cocktail” and cauliflower salad

Symphony of choucroute fondant (watermelon, avocado with caviar), sesame beef tartare, foie gras and smoked duck “burger”, golden panisse fries, red and golden beet salad – so many things going on in this appetizer, but all of it was beautifully executed. Very creative with so many different tastes and textures. I especially enjoyed the combination of watermelon, avocado, and caviar – sweet, salty, and refreshing!
Pan seared artisan foie gras with rhubarb, corn fondue, and truffle sauce – surprisingly, I enjoyed the truffle popcorn more than the foie gras in this dish. The foie was interesting with corn and the flavors were great, but it was a tad overcooked…it lacked that plump, lusciousness that I love about foie gras.
Wild jumbo prawns with brioche crust, sweet and sour radicchio, cannellini bean emulsion, crispy pork belly – the least interesting dish of the night. It was good, but tasted like any standard shrimp in cream sauce. Also, these prawns weren’t really what I’d call “jumbo”.
Boneless quail stuffed with sweetbreads, roasted parsnips and young leeks and foie gras, lightly smoked apple flavored veal jus, pine nuts – absolutely sublime! This dish brought me back to France. It was rich and complex with many layers of flavors. The combination of tender, savory quail with the unctuous sweetbreads was pure heaven. The crisp parsnips and leeks added a nice contrast (while the foie didn’t do anything for the dish). My favorite dish of the evening.
Grand Marnier soufflé – I’ve been crazy about Grand Marnier soufflés ever since I had my first at Gary Danko’s almost a decade ago, but this soufflé was too eggy and thick. It didn’t have that ethereal fluffiness that makes soufflés so heavenly.
Fleur burger and caramel-banana milkshake – fun to look at and even more fun to eat! The “burger” was warm chocolate ganache between a golden beignet “bun”. (The waiters were amused when B asked for mustard after they brought this out. Such a cheeseball!). This dessert was delightful, and I enjoyed washing down all that food with a cold, frothy milkshake.
Chef Hubert Keller greeted us after our meal, which made our night. He was so gracious and kind. He truly sets the tone for his restaurant, as his staff was just as warm.

Fleur de Lys is a special restaurant, and I’d like to come back. However, I would order differently next time, focusing less on the classic French dishes (with the exception of that mouth-watering quail!) and more on the newer, creative menu items. The prices are also fairly reasonable for a fine dining experience.

BITE METER: Fleur de Lys – 4.0 bites (out of 5)