Ending 2009 at the French Laundry

Praised to be one of the best restaurants in the U.S. (if not *the* best), dining at the French Laundry always feels special. Located in the heart of Napa Valley with its own expansive garden, the restaurant has a rustic yet graceful charm. This was my third trip to the French Laundry, and it was an excellent way to celebrate the end of 2009.
Salmon Tartar Cornets – Chef Thomas Keller’s signature amuse bouche – sophisticated flavors, yet fun to eat. Buttery smoked salmon with sesame tuille. What really sets it apart from all the imitations is the subtle sweetness of the red onion crème fraiche inside.
Cauliflower “Panna Cotta” – sweet, salty, and buttery all in the same bite. The delicate caviar was like silk filled with salty bursts. Panna cotta had nice, smooth consistency, and its restrained flavor allowed caviar to shine.
Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm – light and refreshing. However, this was my least favorite course of the meal. The flavors were too understated (almost boring) and what I could taste was disjointed. The hazelnuts were overpowering, while the black truffle shavings (surprisingly) didn’t do anything for the dish - a rare instance where truffles don’t automatically make everything better!
“Foie Gras de Canard au Torchon” – absolute decadence. The foie gras was creamy with rich undertones of the liver, but still relatively light for foie. My mouth was watering as I slathered the velvety foie gras over a thick slice of warm, toasted buttered brioche. The rich flavors and textures were balanced by the acidity and sweetness of Satsuma mandarins and crunchy Sicilian pistachios. To add a little fun, the dish was accompanied by 3 different kinds of salt – grey salt, Philippine salt, Jurassic pink salt (from salt mine over 40 million years old!). It was really interesting to experience how the different salts brought out different elements of the dish and slightly changed the tastes.
Nantucket Bay Scallops “Poêlées” – a whimsical presentation of the tiny Nantucket Bay scallops with sunchokes, apricots, niçoise olives, and broccolini. The adorable scallops were unbelievably sweet…almost tasted like honey. The olives were surprisingly delicate, adding just a hint of saltiness to the scallops.
“Caesar Salad” – heavenly. The butter-poached Maine lobster “mitts” were so sweet and lusciously plump. The lobster was complemented by the leafy flavors of romaine lettuce and the sharp bite from grated Bottarga di Muggine (cured fish roe). Behind the lobster was a garlic-parmesan pain perdu, which reminded me of polenta because it was so thick and creamy.
Salmon Creek Farms Pork Belly – a sophisticated play on “pork and beans” with winter bean cassoulet and tangy tomato compote. The pork belly was incredbily soft and tender…like butter. I really enjoyed eating this dish (must be the Texan in me!). It’s a perfect example of how deconstruction can still be comforting and cohesive.
Marcho Farms Nature-fed Veal – elegant piece of veal with clean flavors and a nice, salty crust. The Chateaubriand (center cut of the tenderloin) was beautifully and evenly cooked…impressive considering how thick it was. The veal was accompanied by horseradish crème fraiche, creamy potato puree, and Brussels sprouts. I usually loathe beets, but these sous vide gems were really sweet and didn’t have that usual sourness – not surprising though since my previous meal at the French Laundry was the first time that I tasted *delicious* golden beets.
“Fourme d’Ambert” – this gorgeous cheese course looked both untamed and extravagant. The sweet French prunes and currant bread slices were perfect contrasts to the pungent blue cheese. However, I could have done without the roasted fennel – its taste and texture was odd with the blue cheese.
“Dark and Stormy” – a play on the dark ‘n’ stormy cocktail to cleanse our palates. The pineapple sorbet was bright and refreshing, while the spiced gingerbread provided a little kick.
“Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari” – the dessert sounds French but definitely has a Southeast Asian influence. There was a lot going on, but the flourless Valrhona cocoa nibs took center stage. They were topped by spicy and sour mango-chili relish, and accompanied with a creamy coconut milk sorbet and a lime-infused whipped cream. The dessert was all over the place, but enjoyable overall.
Pecan Tart with Chantilly Cream – light and crunchy. Unlike the dense filling found in pecan pies, the pecans in this tart were much lighter…almost as if they had been popped like kettle corn or rice crispies.
Truffles & Chocolate-covered Macadamia Nuts – all of the truffles were wonderful (green tea, maple, peanut butter, pumpkin, caramel, peppermint) and so pretty. If I had to choose, my favorite was the pumpkin truffle – it tasted like a chocolate covered morsel of pumpkin pie…Mmmm. And these chocolate-covered macadamia nuts were sublime!
This is where the magic happens! B and I were fortunate enough to get a tour of the kitchen after our meal. Given the number and complexity of the courses, the kitchen was much smaller and calmer than I had expected. All of the stations were very organized and clean.
The sous vide machines (this picture is for you, S!)

BITE METER: French Laundry – 4.6 bites (out of 5)

minibar – 27 Tasty Wonders

This was the most fun I’ve ever had with a meal. Only 6 diners at a time + 3 creative chefs + 27 amazing courses = one of a kind experience at minibar. The food is innovative, whimsical,
thoughtful, and most importantly, DELICOUS! José Andrés is the creative brain behind minibar (he trained under the genius Ferran Adrià at El Bulli) and has introduced a whole new way to experience food in the U.S. He shows us that food can be entertaining, surprising, and tasty…all in the same bite. Andrés also makes the dining experience even more special by enabling us to interact with the chefs – the chefs make all the courses in the tiny space behind the counter and happily answer questions while we watch the magic happen. [Note: It's a lot to read, so I've highlighted the courses that I thought were especially phenomenal in bold below]

Our meal gets off to an exciting start with liquid nitrogen being poured over the one of the cocktails. [Recommendation: It’s impossible to pair wine with so many courses. I had flight of champagne to accompany my dishes, but B had an fantastic German riesling (Dr. Loosen 2006) that paired well with just about every dish.]

The Munchies (small bites):

PISCO SOUR – a new take on the Peruvian cocktail. It was a play on contrasts - sour elixir at the bottom and the sweet, frothy egg white topping, while also being warm and cold at the same time. This was refreshing and delightful to drink.
BEET “TUMBLEWEED” – super crunchy and light. The beet flavor was subtle, but they were able to capture so much of the beet’s natural sweetness and saltiness that they didn’t need to add any seasoning to this bite-size “tumbleweed”. It tasted like Terra chips but sooooo much better.
“BAGELS & LOX” – this reminded me of Thomas Keller’s signature salmon cornets, only with salmon roe instead of salmon tartare. The roe was really fresh and its salty little explosions were softened by a light crème fraîche hidden inside the bottom of the cone.
CURRIED CHICKEN WING – if only all chicken wings could taste this good…moist, boneless chicken meat inside a crispy, curry-flavored skin with a dollop of coconut milk on top. The chicken was savory and stick-to-your-ribs greasy (in a good way).
“FERRERO ROCHER” – like eating the Italian chocolates, wrapper and all! They said this was a savory version of it, but I only tasted sweet, chocolate liquid and hazelnut as I bit into the golden ball…perhaps this is one instance where my eyes and expectations tricked my taste buds.
“MOJITO” – cocktail in a bubble...so much cooler than jello shots! The gelatin encasing contained a vivid burst of lime and mint juices.
BLUE CHEESE AND ALMOND – this dish left me confused. Almond cream was quickly frozen in liquid nitrogen to create a thin shell that melted in my mouth around a cold ball of blue cheese. The almond flavor was overpowering, and the blue cheese was surprisingly faint…nonetheless, the two tasted strange together. This was probably the only course I wasn’t fond of (pretty good odds considering the extensive number of courses).
STEAMED BRIOCHE BUN IN CAVIAR – absolutely divine! This was a million times better than a blini…the fluffy bun was filled with crème fraîche and then topped with osetra caviar and lemon foam. The bun was like Chinese buns, only a lot lighter, less starchy, and much more sophisticated.
TEMPURA BRUSSELS SPROUT “ROSE” – light, crispy, and flaky…almost like the brussels sprout had been encased in phyllo dough. And with the touch of sweetness from honey and rose water added a touch of sweetness, it was like eating a ball of warm brussels sprout baklava. None of this vegetable’s usual bitterness could be detected either.
COTTON CANDY EEL – brilliant presentation. I loved this dish! Unagi (sweet bbq eel) was wrapped in shiso leaf, then cocooned in a peppery cotton candy…it looked like a butterfly was about to emerge. The cotton candy’s ethereal texture crunched and melted in my mouth, while enhancing the sweetness of warm unagi with each bite. This dish was an evolution of their popular ‘foie gras cotton candy’, which I wish I could have had as well…hopefully it’ll be back on their menu during my next visit.
DRAGON’S BREATH POPCORN – so fun to watch others eat… as you bite into it and breath, steam comes out of your mouth and nose! The frozen popcorn had a hint of curry while also tasting slightly sweet like kettle corn.
Flavors & Textures (larger tastes):

ZUCCHINI IN TEXTURES – I usually dislike zucchini, but really enjoyed this dish. There were many layers of varying tastes and textures, while still maintaining the essence of zucchini throughout each part…cool zucchini gelee, soft tapioca-like zucchini seeds, and velvety, savory zucchini mousse at the bottom. This dish was both refreshing and rich at the same time.
“GUACAMOLE” – cold, spicy tomato sorbet, wrapped in creamy slivers of avocado, topped with salty pieces of crunchy tortilla chips, on a pool of lime juice…this was a Mexican fiesta in my mouth! The bold flavors and textures were incredible. And yes, it *did* taste like guacamole.
SMOKED OYSTER WITH GREEN APPLE – I was initially excited when I heard this was a Kusshi oyster – they’re sweet and buttery with a clean finish, which makes them a favorite of mine. However, those qualities somehow gotten lost in the smoking process – the oyster didn’t taste fresh or sweet. It still had a plump, silky texture and the green apple and lemon foam helped brighten it up, but the dish would have been so much better had they just served the oyster in its raw glory.
CORN WITH HUITLACOCHE – a recreation of baby corn…or as they put it, they were “playing God with this dish.” Finely ground pieces of baby corn wrapped around gelatin husk. I forget the actual ratio, but they used over 100 baby corn to make just a few of these corn creations. This dish truly captured the essence of corn – the “baby corn” tasted like delicately roasted corn, the bed of yellow sauce was like a creamy and sweet corn pudding, and the black huitlacoche sauce (made from a fungus that grows on corn, also known as the “Mexican corn truffle”) added a complex, earthy element…so many different layers and flavors unfolded with each bite. It was sophisticated while also evoking the rustic, outdoors at the same time.
“SUN DRIED” TOMATO SALAD – literally melt-in-my-mouth sun-dried tomatoes. They kept the concentrated flavors of sun-dried tomatoes, but removed chewy texture by making them into gelatin and then dehydrating it so they liquefy in your mouth. The intensely sweet, tart, and earthy flavors from the “sun-dried tomatoes” were balanced by the light creaminess of the yogurt capsules, which resembled balls of mozzarella…although it looked similar, this dish was definitely not your ordinary Caprese salad.

The spectacular chefs meticulously preparing our next course.

CHARCOAL SALMON TORO – although the salmon was smoked, it wasn’t super salty like regular smoked salmon….it had a more delicate smoky flavor, which was accentuated by the fermented garlic “charcoal”. The ‘toro’ (belly cut of the fish) had a luscious fatty texture, and the tiny lemon-lime capsules provided just the right amount of acidity to cut the rich salmon.
PARMESAN EGG WITH MIGAS – an egg within an egg. They created a parmesan ‘yolk’, and then put a quail egg yolk inside of it. Once broken, the yolks had that perfectly runny consistency. It was obscenely good when mixed with the thin wafers of fried bread and black truffle shavings…salty, earthy, gooey, cheesy deliciousness! This dish still makes my mouth water when I think of it.
NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER – deconstructed chowder…a layer of potato puree on bottom, then a layer of sweet caramelized onion paste, then whipped bacon cream, chive oil, and finally a bit of clam foam. Then it’s topped off with fresh clams and a sprinkle of bacon. Eaten all together, it was the best of clam chowder blanketing my taste buds…warm, rich, hearty and the whole clams were so sweet and succulent. Each spoonful brought out different flavors and textures.
BREADED CIGALA WITH SEA SALAD – the flavors were distinctly Chinese, but I can’t pinpoint the exact dish it reminded me of…cooked langoustine with a crisp, sesame foam, and watercress.
“PHILLY CHEESESTEAK” – lightly seared Wagyu beef over a toasted bread puff with a warm, creamy cheese filling. Eat with caution, as the cheese oozes out with each bite. I’m not sure what type of cheese they used, but it tasted like processed American cheese and didn’t complement the high quality beef. The thin slices of Wagyu beef were delicate yet meaty, its flavor was enhanced by the salt crystals.
Sweet Ending (desserts):

THAI DESSERT – this dish blew my mind! Not only was it one of the most interesting and unique things I’ve had in a long time, it tasted magnificent. This dessert consisted of coconut milk ice cream, frozen peanut powder, and lemongrass-tamarind gelee – together, it tasted exactly like pad thai but with completely different textures. It may sound strange, but tasted sooooo good. The flavors worked as a dessert because the peanut sauce in traditional pad is somewhat sweet from the peanut sauce. The coconut milk ice cream was luscious and rich, and there was a bit of heat from the cayenne that tantalized my taste buds.
FROZEN YOGURT WITH HONEY – it was like eating soft snow that turned into creamy yogurt in your mouth. They had transformed frozen wildflower and thyme Greek yogurt into fine powder, then spooned it onto a pool of olive oil. On top was a sprinkle of crunchy honey crystals and micro mint leaves. The powdered yogurt and olive oil mixture tasted creamy, while still maintaining a subtle elegance.
MANGO BOX – a pretty petit four…hard sugared mango shell filled with cream and black olives shavings. I particularly enjoyed the hint of saltiness from the olives.
BACON AND CHOCOLATE – I’ve been on the fence about the whole movement of putting bacon in desserts, but it worked here…a crisp slice of bacon covered in dark chocolate. Not too salty, not too sweet…just right.
“S’MORES” – the recreation of this campfire favorite slightly missed the mark. A passionfruit marshmallow coated in a dark chocolate shell that had been torched so that it that delicate crunch of crème brulee. The passionfruit marshmallow ended up being more liquidy than gooey, and the lack of graham crackers left something to be desired. (Apparently, there was great debate among the chefs as to whether or not to include graham cracker. They should – graham crackers are one of the three crucial ingredients of a s’more!)
FIZZY BALL – a denser version of cotton candy using sodium bicarbonate. It fizzed in my mouth and tasted like Sprite – a great palate cleanser!
I won’t spoil it for you, but they present the bill in a very fun, surprising way.

It was meal that kept me thinking and talking about it for days. There were 27 courses, but each was so distinctive and creative. I was wowed by the array of bold flavors and textures, and loved the interactive experience. The portion sizes were also just right – I left feeling satisfied but not overly stuffed. Perhaps what is most amazing is that I could eat it all again and have a completely different experience. There was so much to take in with each dish that I couldn’t fully appreciate all the nuances (also, the courses come out quickly and must be eaten almost instantly to enjoy them at the proper temperature). But maybe that’s the point of minibar – instead of dissecting a dish and focusing on all the details, just sit back and appreciate the impression and wonder that each dish leaves you with.

BITE METER: minibar – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

Red Velvet – True to Their Name

Gourmet cupcake shops have popped up all over major cities in the past few years…a dangerous trend given how hard they are to resist! Red Velvet has two locations in Washington DC and offers assorted selection of cupcakes.

I ended up with a box of carrot cake, key west (key lime with white chocolate buttercream), devil’s food, and 3 red velvet cupcakes...to share of course! True to the shop name, the red velvet cupcakes were sinfully delightful - I especially loved their decadent whipped cream cheese frosting. The other ones weren’t particularly special - the key lime was too sweet, and the devil’s food was boring. In short, not the best or most moist cupcakes I've had, but the red velvets are still a treat.
BITE METER: Red Velvet – 3.0 bites (out of 5)

Holiday Highlights

Beautifully carved Christmas goose and turkey by A.
Cream puffs by moi!! Three different flavors – coffee, chocolate, and vanilla. It is a rare sighting to find me in the kitchen, but I made an appearance since these are one of B’s favorite desserts.
S is the household chili master and made a guest appearance one night with his signature chili spaghetti.