Au Pied de Cochon – Just Let Go and Indulge

I was intrigued when I heard that Au Pied de Cochon was one of Anthony Bourdain’s favorite restaurants. Given that the restaurant’s name means “At the Pig’s Foot”, I’m not surprised as Mr. Bourdain is known for his infatuation of all things pork. However, the restaurant is about more than pork; it’s about indulging in all things rich and comforting. The main menu is filled with a meaty assortment of pork, beef, and duck dishes (vegetarians need not enter). Foie gras even has its own section as a “meat” with over 10 menu items…a foie gras lover’s dream!
The restaurant has a lively yet laid-back feel. It is non-descript (no sign outside) but full of warmth as sunlight from the large windows and skylights cast a glow on the honey-colored wood throughout the dining room. The staff also provided excellent service in an easygoing manner. It was good to be in such a comfortable environment as I let go and ate myself senseless…

Foie Gras Poutine – poutine is to Canada as what chili-cheese fries are to the South. Up here, the Canadians top french fries with gravy and cheese curds...and Chef Picard then takes it one step further by adding a velvety slab of foie gras on top of it all. The gravy on this poutine was ABSOLUTELY MINDBLOWING! I don’t know if I can adequately describe it…imagine a gravy that’s thick, buttery, warm, creamy, and oh-so-savory, then multiply that goodness by 1,000. I cant' get over how good it was! Needless to say, I did not leave a single drop of gravy on the plate.
Plogue à Champlain – deliciously addictive! This dish consisted of a buckwheat pancake topped with cheese, potatoes, thick-cut bacon, and foie gras. And on top of that was Quebec maple syrup, chopped apples, and parsley. The contrasting sweet and savory flavors were in perfect harmony. It was like having dinner and dessert wrapped up in an exceptionally decadent bite! [Not surprisingly, I'm salivating as I write about this!]
Seafood Platter – the restaurant had a huge display of fresh/live seafood, so I thought it’d be a good idea to "balance" our heavy courses with a seafood platter...little did I know it'd be a gigantic mound of seafood! It was a heaping assortment of stuffed mussels, conch, razor clams, calamari, cherrystone clams, oysters, and even bowl of periwinkles sauteed in black bean sauce. Prepared with a number of different sauces and marinades, this was much more elaborate than the typical raw seafood platter. It’s now clear why this dish wasn’t served first. I did find all this seafood to be overwhelming though, and would have rather had the option to choose a few seafood items from the menu instead.
Dark Chocolate Pot de Crème – Luckily, I always have an extra stomach for dessert so I didn’t miss out on this luscious chocolatey goodness. It was so scrumptious with the graham cracker crumbles.
The restaurant also served this terrific spearmint green tea by Kusmi. I liked it so much that I found it online and ordered some afterwards. Too bad I can’t have that orgasmic poutine and plogue shipped to me as well. For now, I guess I’ll have to longingly count the days until my next visit to Au Pied de Cochon.

BITE METER: Au Pied de Cochon – 4.4 bites (out of 5)

Toqué! – Fine Dining With a Relaxed Elegance

After arriving in Montreal, B and I quickly got dressed for dinner at Toqué. This was my first time to Montreal, so it was a treat to dine at one of the city’s top restaurants as an introduction to its food scene.

For some reason, I had pictured a formal and reserved French restaurant, but Toqué was quite the opposite. The décor was contemporary and had an open feel with high ceilings and lots of light filling the dining room. The staff was youthful and friendly. The restaurant’s vibe was one of relaxed elegance. And the same can be said about the food. It was sophisticated and modern French cuisine, but with more restraint and a lighter touch.

Amuse Bouche – chilled tomato soup with herb foam

Princess Scallops marinated with rhubarb water, radish, strawberries, wasabi mousse – colorful presentation. The rhubarb water enhanced the sweetness of scallops while also making it refreshing. However, if eaten with more than one piece of strawberry, the taste of the scallop was lost.
Steamed Razor Clam, coriander, escarole, ginger, spicy soy vinaigrette – the clam was steamed to perfection and had the most amazing texture – soft and chewy without being rubbery. The clam’s delicate sweetness was balanced perfectly by the restrained use of spicy and savory Asian flavors.
Foie Gras, green apple essence, potato confit, asparagus, peas, turnips – WOW, I never knew foie gras could taste like spring! The foie was amazingly light and elegant with just a hint of sweetness (as opposed to the usual additions of strong sweet or salty ingredients with foie gras). I was told that Chef Laprise doesn’t season the foie with anything to keep it super plump and luscious. Beautiful dish!
Ribeye Carpaccio, white asparagus, popcorn powder, shitake mushrooms, miso, wasabi infused oil - the BEST CARPACCIO to have ever graced my lips! I don’t even know where to start – there was so much complexity and layers of flavor in this carpaccio. I especially loved the earthy richness of shitake mushrooms with the beef and that hit of flavor from the miso. I also appreciated the cleansing bites of herb provided by the chopped scallions. The portion size was perfect for this robust dish.
Squab, turnips, heirloom carrot, pearl onion - it was bold move to include the squab’s clawed foot in the dish and definitely made for a striking presentation. The leg was awesome with that lovely rich taste of dark meat, while the other parts of the squab were super moist and tender from being sous vide.
Hercules Cheese, mushrooms, asparagus, fried shallots, wildflower honey – much more fun than your ordinary cheese plate. I was impressed by the paper thin slice of cheese given how large the cheese wedge was. Lovely combination of flavors and textures – velvety cheese, juicy mushrooms, sweet honey, salty and crunchy fried shallots.
Rhubarb Sorbet, Meringue on Strawberry & Maple Foam – the meringue was light and sweet, but the rhubarb sorbet was too tart for my taste.
Overall, I was impressed by my dinner at Toqué. It was evident how much care and technique went into each course, and I could taste the freshness of the seasonal ingredients. The food was relatively light yet had so complexity. Each bite brought in different elements of the dish, continually building on the sophisticated flavors…and kept my taste buds intrigued. The ~$100/person price for the meticulously prepared 7 course Chef’s Tasting Menu also kept my wallet happy. I have yet to find this caliber of food for that price in the U.S.

BITE METER: Toqué! – 4.2 bites (out of 5)

Fleur de Lys – A Special Place in the Heart of San Francisco

Walking into Fleur de Lys is like being transported into somewhere far, far away. It’s sexy and romantic, people speak in hushed tones, and there’s plush crimson draping everywhere…like being inside a luxurious Moroccan tent. The dining room is like no other place in San Francisco, or anywhere else I’ve been. B and I were dining with some close friends, so we appreciated the great corner table – it added to the intimacy of the restaurant.

The service was excellent. Our waiter knew every obscure detail about the wine and food and gave us fantastic descriptions as we fired away questions about the various menu items. In addition, the entire staff was so welcoming and pleasant. Fleur de Lys is THE FRIENDLIEST FRENCH RESTAURANT I’ve been to…still puts a smile on my face. :-)

In regards to the food, it was good but some of the dishes relied a little too much on “luxury ingredients” to make an impression. Almost everything on the menu had foie gras in it. Being a foie-fanatic, that’s almost always a good thing, but the foie gras was unnecessary in some of these already rich dishes and just weighed them down. I was actually more impressed by Chef Hubert Keller’s more innovative interpretations on French cuisine than his preparation of the classics.

Amuse bouche – chilled asparagus soup and cherry tomato “cocktail” and cauliflower salad

Symphony of choucroute fondant (watermelon, avocado with caviar), sesame beef tartare, foie gras and smoked duck “burger”, golden panisse fries, red and golden beet salad – so many things going on in this appetizer, but all of it was beautifully executed. Very creative with so many different tastes and textures. I especially enjoyed the combination of watermelon, avocado, and caviar – sweet, salty, and refreshing!
Pan seared artisan foie gras with rhubarb, corn fondue, and truffle sauce – surprisingly, I enjoyed the truffle popcorn more than the foie gras in this dish. The foie was interesting with corn and the flavors were great, but it was a tad overcooked…it lacked that plump, lusciousness that I love about foie gras.
Wild jumbo prawns with brioche crust, sweet and sour radicchio, cannellini bean emulsion, crispy pork belly – the least interesting dish of the night. It was good, but tasted like any standard shrimp in cream sauce. Also, these prawns weren’t really what I’d call “jumbo”.
Boneless quail stuffed with sweetbreads, roasted parsnips and young leeks and foie gras, lightly smoked apple flavored veal jus, pine nuts – absolutely sublime! This dish brought me back to France. It was rich and complex with many layers of flavors. The combination of tender, savory quail with the unctuous sweetbreads was pure heaven. The crisp parsnips and leeks added a nice contrast (while the foie didn’t do anything for the dish). My favorite dish of the evening.
Grand Marnier soufflé – I’ve been crazy about Grand Marnier soufflés ever since I had my first at Gary Danko’s almost a decade ago, but this soufflé was too eggy and thick. It didn’t have that ethereal fluffiness that makes soufflés so heavenly.
Fleur burger and caramel-banana milkshake – fun to look at and even more fun to eat! The “burger” was warm chocolate ganache between a golden beignet “bun”. (The waiters were amused when B asked for mustard after they brought this out. Such a cheeseball!). This dessert was delightful, and I enjoyed washing down all that food with a cold, frothy milkshake.
Chef Hubert Keller greeted us after our meal, which made our night. He was so gracious and kind. He truly sets the tone for his restaurant, as his staff was just as warm.

Fleur de Lys is a special restaurant, and I’d like to come back. However, I would order differently next time, focusing less on the classic French dishes (with the exception of that mouth-watering quail!) and more on the newer, creative menu items. The prices are also fairly reasonable for a fine dining experience.

BITE METER: Fleur de Lys – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

Ending 2009 at the French Laundry

Praised to be one of the best restaurants in the U.S. (if not *the* best), dining at the French Laundry always feels special. Located in the heart of Napa Valley with its own expansive garden, the restaurant has a rustic yet graceful charm. This was my third trip to the French Laundry, and it was an excellent way to celebrate the end of 2009.
Salmon Tartar Cornets – Chef Thomas Keller’s signature amuse bouche – sophisticated flavors, yet fun to eat. Buttery smoked salmon with sesame tuille. What really sets it apart from all the imitations is the subtle sweetness of the red onion crème fraiche inside.
Cauliflower “Panna Cotta” – sweet, salty, and buttery all in the same bite. The delicate caviar was like silk filled with salty bursts. Panna cotta had nice, smooth consistency, and its restrained flavor allowed caviar to shine.
Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm – light and refreshing. However, this was my least favorite course of the meal. The flavors were too understated (almost boring) and what I could taste was disjointed. The hazelnuts were overpowering, while the black truffle shavings (surprisingly) didn’t do anything for the dish - a rare instance where truffles don’t automatically make everything better!
“Foie Gras de Canard au Torchon” – absolute decadence. The foie gras was creamy with rich undertones of the liver, but still relatively light for foie. My mouth was watering as I slathered the velvety foie gras over a thick slice of warm, toasted buttered brioche. The rich flavors and textures were balanced by the acidity and sweetness of Satsuma mandarins and crunchy Sicilian pistachios. To add a little fun, the dish was accompanied by 3 different kinds of salt – grey salt, Philippine salt, Jurassic pink salt (from salt mine over 40 million years old!). It was really interesting to experience how the different salts brought out different elements of the dish and slightly changed the tastes.
Nantucket Bay Scallops “Poêlées” – a whimsical presentation of the tiny Nantucket Bay scallops with sunchokes, apricots, niçoise olives, and broccolini. The adorable scallops were unbelievably sweet…almost tasted like honey. The olives were surprisingly delicate, adding just a hint of saltiness to the scallops.
“Caesar Salad” – heavenly. The butter-poached Maine lobster “mitts” were so sweet and lusciously plump. The lobster was complemented by the leafy flavors of romaine lettuce and the sharp bite from grated Bottarga di Muggine (cured fish roe). Behind the lobster was a garlic-parmesan pain perdu, which reminded me of polenta because it was so thick and creamy.
Salmon Creek Farms Pork Belly – a sophisticated play on “pork and beans” with winter bean cassoulet and tangy tomato compote. The pork belly was incredbily soft and tender…like butter. I really enjoyed eating this dish (must be the Texan in me!). It’s a perfect example of how deconstruction can still be comforting and cohesive.
Marcho Farms Nature-fed Veal – elegant piece of veal with clean flavors and a nice, salty crust. The Chateaubriand (center cut of the tenderloin) was beautifully and evenly cooked…impressive considering how thick it was. The veal was accompanied by horseradish crème fraiche, creamy potato puree, and Brussels sprouts. I usually loathe beets, but these sous vide gems were really sweet and didn’t have that usual sourness – not surprising though since my previous meal at the French Laundry was the first time that I tasted *delicious* golden beets.
“Fourme d’Ambert” – this gorgeous cheese course looked both untamed and extravagant. The sweet French prunes and currant bread slices were perfect contrasts to the pungent blue cheese. However, I could have done without the roasted fennel – its taste and texture was odd with the blue cheese.
“Dark and Stormy” – a play on the dark ‘n’ stormy cocktail to cleanse our palates. The pineapple sorbet was bright and refreshing, while the spiced gingerbread provided a little kick.
“Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari” – the dessert sounds French but definitely has a Southeast Asian influence. There was a lot going on, but the flourless Valrhona cocoa nibs took center stage. They were topped by spicy and sour mango-chili relish, and accompanied with a creamy coconut milk sorbet and a lime-infused whipped cream. The dessert was all over the place, but enjoyable overall.
Pecan Tart with Chantilly Cream – light and crunchy. Unlike the dense filling found in pecan pies, the pecans in this tart were much lighter…almost as if they had been popped like kettle corn or rice crispies.
Truffles & Chocolate-covered Macadamia Nuts – all of the truffles were wonderful (green tea, maple, peanut butter, pumpkin, caramel, peppermint) and so pretty. If I had to choose, my favorite was the pumpkin truffle – it tasted like a chocolate covered morsel of pumpkin pie…Mmmm. And these chocolate-covered macadamia nuts were sublime!
This is where the magic happens! B and I were fortunate enough to get a tour of the kitchen after our meal. Given the number and complexity of the courses, the kitchen was much smaller and calmer than I had expected. All of the stations were very organized and clean.
The sous vide machines (this picture is for you, S!)

BITE METER: French Laundry – 4.6 bites (out of 5)

No. 9 Park – Nine Reasons I’ll Be Back

9. Location: Inside a historic townhouse at the corner of the Boston Common, it’s an ideal setting for No. 9 Park.

8. Reputation: Barbara Lynch is a celebrated chef in the Boston area – a James Beard Award winner and chef/owner of several restaurants in the city. Fortunately, this restaurant did not suffer from her expansion to so many different establishments.

7. Ambience: Although the entire restaurant had an elegant charm, I liked sitting in the back dining room. It felt more warm and cozy – lush neutral colored fabrics and dark woods lit by a soft golden glow.

6. Menu: The cuisine is both Italian and French inspired. There were so many enticing options on the menu that it was difficult deciding what to order. Had it not been a Monday night, I probably would have gotten the 7 course tasting menu instead of the 3 course.

5. Roasted Ribeye with Braised Oxtail and Potato & Truffle Mille-Feuille: While I wish the beef had been more tender (still can’t get that Saga beef out of my mind!), I still enjoyed the components of this dish. The braised oxtail was rich and comforting, chanterelle mushrooms were earthy and succulent, and the potato truffle mille-feuille was moist and buttery with a perfect crispy crust.

4. Wine List: The wine list contained many interesting varietals of wine – including some grapes I hadn’t heard of before. Our waiter wanted to make sure we found just the right wine and graciously poured us a few tastings before we made our decisions. I was impressed by the unique flavor profiles and complexity of their wines.

3. Prune Stuffed Gnocchi with Seared Foie Gras: Much larger and less dense than traditional gnocchi, these soft pillows were laid on a small pool of Vin Santo sauce. I couldn't really taste the Vin Santo; it was lost amidst the stronger flavors of the other components. I usually find prunes to be quite unappealing, but thoroughly enjoyed how their sweet tartness cut the richness of the foie gras.

2. Concord Grape Clafoutis: This dessert was out of this world! The clafoutis was cut into small cake wheels which were dense yet creamy and had a rich nutty flavor. The dessert also contained stewed concord grapes, grape gelée, caramelized peanuts, and peanut ice cream – mixed together it was an explosion of flavors and textures. What a sophisticated and decadent play on the peanut butter and jelly sandwich!

1. Service: I’ve found the service at many fine dining establishments in Boston to lack the professionalism and finesse of their peers in San Francisco and New York; however, our waiter at No. 9 Park was one of the best I’ve had in a while. He was very knowledgeable about the food and wine, yet came across as very unassuming and hospitable. He was extremely helpful in selecting our wines and gave superb recommendations on foods that were new to us (loved the cafloutis and B’s sunchoke velouté soup!)

I will definitely return for the 7 course chef’s tasting menu!

BITE METER: No. 9 Park – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

La Table de Joel Robuchon - A Taste of Paris in the Middle of Tokyo

Of course my priority was to eat Japanese food while in Japan, but with the world renowned Joel Robuchon chateau literally right across the street from our hotel, how could I resist?!

Surprisingly, there are more Joel Robuchon locations in Tokyo than anywhere else in the world (yes, even Paris). La Table and L’Atelier both have 2 Michelin stars, while the Chateau Restaurant has 3. The chateau was built especially for Robuchon’s establishments – La Table on the first floor, Rouge Bar on the second, the Chateau Restaurant on the third, and I believe a private dining room at the very top. The soft yellow chateau looked so strange sitting next to all these modern skyscrapers and shopping centers…like it was transported from another time, and dropped right into the middle of Tokyo. However, because the chateau was so new and pristine and the décor felt contrived, the place lacked the old world charm of France.

Because it was such a lovely night, we asked to have dinner outside in the courtyard. I’m glad we were able to enjoy our meal under the open sky instead of the stuffy dining room. The courtyard felt much more intimate and cozy, especially since we had it all to ourselves. It was also kind of surreal to look up and see the glowing lights of the chateau on one side and two looming skyscrapers on the other.

The service was pleasant. Although dressed very formally, our waiters were quite approachable and genuine. Unfortunately, their English wasn’t as good as their Japanese or French so there was a bit lost in translation during the description of our courses (actually I should say it was unfortunate that *we* didn’t speak better Japanese and French since we were the foreigners).

Carrot Custard with Chicken Consommé Gelée – This was an delightful and unique amuse bouche. I really enjoyed the contrast of the carrot custard’s creamy decadence with the savory taste and firm jelly texture of the chicken consommé gelée.

Asparagus ‘Cappucino’ Soup with Crab Meat – I love when soup comes out at a nice hot temperature that warms my inside up. This soup was rich, yet light and frothy. The flavors of the asparagus and the sweet crab meat were a perfect combination.

Sea Bream with Prosciutto, Piquillo Pepper, and Paprika Coulis – This was probably the most average dish of the night. The sea bream was nicely cooked – delicate meat with a crispy skin crust, but the flavors were unremarkable. The paprika coulis or the piquillo pepper didn’t really do anything for the dish.
Saga Beef Roasted with Wild Mushrooms and Seasonal Vegetables – By far, the MOST INCREDIBLE piece of beef that I’ve ever had. My mouth still waters when I think of this Saga beef. I used to think Kobe was premium, but this Saga steak was absolutely orgasmic. The clean, velvety flavors just melted in my mouth. A tiny jar of French mustard came with my dish, but I was reluctant to put anything on such a *perfect* piece of meat, especially since I’m not a fan of mustard. I finally decided to put just a teeny-tiny bit on because I thought the chef must have recommended it for a reason, right? Oh man, was he right!! The mustard was so subtle and delicate that it didn’t mask the taste of the beef, but actually enhanced the Saga’s lush savory flavors by tenfold! This dish was heavenly.
Peach Tart Topped with Figs, Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and Whipped Cream – A wonderful dessert to complete our meal. It satisfied my sweet tooth but wasn’t too filling or sugary.
Although B’s main entrée and dessert weren’t as exceptional as mine, the overall experience was fantastic and I look forward to dining at other Joel Robuchon restaurants around the world. I’m glad that the French food here wasn’t altered for the Japanese palate (much of the food at foreign restaurants here is “Japan-ified”). The flavors were rich and complex and the techniques were classically French.

BITE METER: La Table de Joel Robuchon – 4.3 bites (out of 5)

Casual Eats in Paris

Paris is one of my favorite eating destinations in the world. In addition to the high concentration of Michelin star restaurants, it is filled with neighborhood shops and restaurants offering all kinds of edible treats – savory and sweet.

Macarons: I looooooooove these sweet and colorful confections. After having coffee and pastries at the famed Dalloyau, I stopped by their downstairs shop to admire their beautiful displays. I couldn’t resist their wide variety of macaron flavors – I had to get one of each! They were wonderfully light and chewy underneath the delicately crisp exterior.


Soufflé: I should have known that with a name like Le Soufflé, the restaurant would have a lot of tourists, but it was still a decent place for large, hearty soufflés at wallet-friendly prices. I liked the cream of chicken and mushroom soufflé – although it was quite heavy for a soufflé, I enjoyed the warm, rich sauce drizzled inside the fluffy dome. For dessert, I tried the chocolate and the Grand Marnier soufflés – neither were very interesting. I’ve had much better versions of both in the U.S.
Baguette: It is so simple, yet so enjoyable - a crispy baguette with cheese. There is nothing like picking up a loaf of fresh baked bread and spreading rich, creamy cheese over it….Mmmm.
Pastries: Éclair, pain au Chocolat, fruit tart, mille-feuille…these are some of my favorite dessert pastries. I dream of their decadent fillings and flaky layers.
Pâté: After walking around the crowded Marché Buci, B and I were pleased to stumble upon Da Rosa while walking down a quiet street. It’s a hip little delicatessen with legs of cured jambon in the windows and a few tables on the side walk. Since this was supposed to be a “light snack”, we ordered a salad (which contained a deliciously fresh and sweet mozzarella), sliced jambon, and pâté. I’ve never had pâté do me in, but this was *the* largest mound of pâté I’ve ever had. It had nice rustic and meaty texture and a fatty, peppery taste.

Ramen: Yes, ramen! After several days filled with lots of wine and heavy French food, my palate was screaming for something different. The huge bowl of hot soupy ramen from Higuma offered a nice break to reset my taste buds…and the perfect hangover cure!


BITE METER:
Dalloyau - 3.5 bites (out of 5)
Le Soufflé - 2.5 bites (out of 5)
Da Rosa - 4.0 bites (out of 5)
Higuma - 3.0 bites (out of 5)