August 30, 2010

Hot Doug’s – Heaven in a Bun

My heart quivered when I first heard about Hot Doug’s foie gras and sauternes duck sausage dog. It sounded too good to be true. From then on, I knew I had to make my way to Chicago and eat here before I die.

I made sure to arrive early at 11am, so the line wasn’t too long... only about a 20 minute wait. There were so many different types of hot dogs, it was difficult to choose. A friend and I were finally able to narrow it down to 3 of the specials to share (I would have ordered more but knew I had a 20+ course dinner at Alinea that night. I had to exercise *some* self control!)
The Order:
• Foie Gras & Sauternes Duck Sausage with truffle aioli, foie gras mousse, and fleur de sel
• Cognac-Infused Lamb & Pork Sausage with spinach raita and manchego cheese
• Saucisson Alsacienne Bacon Sausage with crème fraiche, carmelized onions and tomme de savoie
The Foie Gras dog was my favorite by far. It was rich, juicy and deliciously sinful with the creamy foie gras mousse. The Lamb & Pork sausage was quite good – great meaty flavor, and I especially liked the cool contrast of the yogurt from the spinach raita topping. The only dog I didn’t particularly care for was the Saucisson Alsacienne – it was too dry and salty.

Foie Gras & Sauternes Duck Sausage = Heaven in a bun!

Note: They are CASH ONLY, and make sure to check their hours online before you come.

BITE METER: Hot Doug’s – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

August 29, 2010

Frontera Grill and XOCO – Two Rick Bayless Restaurants in One Night

B and I thought we could beat the crowds by going to Frontera Grill at 6pm for dinner. WRONG. The restaurant was already completely packed, and it was 1 ½ - 2 hour wait for a table! Madness.

Since there wasn’t even room at the bar at Frontera, we decided to get a “snack” at Bayless’ new Mexican street food restaurant next door, XOCO, while we waited. If Bayless’ celebrated mole hadn’t looked so damned good on Top Chef Masters, I would’ve skipped Frontera all together and gotten my fill at XOCO. (You may have noticed that patience is not one of my virtues.)


XOCO is a very casual restaurant. You stand in line to order your food, and there are a few small tables inside and outside available for seating. The menu is primarily composed of tortas (sandwiches) and caldos (hearty soups). B and I ordered the Ahogada since the cashier told us it was one of their specialties, and it was a cross between a torta and a caldo…

Ahogada (golden pork carnitas, black bean, and pickled onion sandwich in a tomato broth with spicy arbol chile sauce) – a fiery explosion of flavor in my mouth! I enjoyed the contrast of the crunchy bread with the spicy tomato broth, creamy black beans, and tart pickled onions…like a French dip sandwich, but with a spicy personality. The carnitas was tender and delicious, but it was difficult to distinguish its flavor amidst the intensely hot chile sauce.


An hour and a half later, our buzzer finally went off for our table at Frontera Grill. It was a lovely evening, so I was pleased to get a table on the patio. We started off with their special Mezcal margarita (YUM!) and ordered an array of items.

Tostaditas (warm tortilla chips with garlic & three-chile salsa and roasted tomatillo & serrano salsa) – the chips were good, but there was nothing special about the salsas. They tasted surprisingly similar and kind of watered down. If a restaurant is going to charge for chips and salsa, it should taste better than this.

Coctel de Callos de Hacha con Melon y Morita (ceviche of Viking Village scallops, Nichols Farm melon, Frontera rooftop tomatoes, lime and smoky morita chiles) – this ceviche really highlighted the plumpness and sweetness of the scallops. The melon toned down the acidity of the ceviche, making it more soft and elegant, but there was still enough heat to give it a kick.

Tamal de Elote (sweet corn tamales, grilled knob onions, crema, homemade queso fresco) – the fresh corn flavor was so sweet and vibrant in the tamales. The soft cheese added a slight savoriness, but this dish could have easily been a nice dessert.
Enchiladas de Mole Poblano (Gunthorp free-range chicken rolled in home-made tortillas with with Mexico’s most famous mole) – B and I have been dying to try this mole ever since we saw Bayless make it on TV. And I’m happy to report that the mole was outstanding…slightly sweet with lots of heat, tang, earthiness, and depth. Unfortunately it couldn’t make up for the dry, overcooked chicken, which was exacerbated by the dense, chewy tortillas. I did enjoy the side of black beans though – tasted like refried black beans, only much more savory and delectable.
To sum it up, both XOCO and Frontera Grill deliver lots of bold, in-your-face flavors and spices in a wide variety of Mexican dishes. I had REALLY high expectations for Frontera Grill (perhaps maybe too high). Although the food was good, it wasn't at the level I had expected…and definitely not worth waiting over an hour for. Way too much hype. My recommendation would be to skip the wait at Frontera and eat at XOCO instead.

BITE METER: XOCO – 3.7 bites (out of 5)
BITE METER: Frontera Grill – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

August 28, 2010

Blackbird – Tasty Three Course Lunch for $22

With so many great restaurants and only 2 days in Chicago, it was difficult to decide which places I should eat at during this trip. Chef Paul Kahan has been recognized as one of the city’s top chefs, so I wanted to try one of his restaurants (Blackbird, Avec, The Publican). Ultimately, I chose Blackbird because of their $22 three course pre-fixe lunch…what a fantastic deal!

Since this was only be beginning of many meals to come, I wanted to keep lunch *relatively* light. So B and I split one of the pre-fixe lunches and ordered an extra entrée to share (the pork belly sandwich was calling my name).

Wood-grilled Octopus Confit with Pickled Ramps, Baby Romaine, Candied Red Onion – the presentation of the octopus was unique…almost like it had been congealed into a block of terrine, then sliced. The octopus was tender and delicate, although I would have liked some char to give it more flavor/smokiness. The candied red onion and pickled ramps were a nice complement.
Sous-vide Lamb with Lime Onions, Tamarind, Smoked Cucumbers – the lamb was beautifully cooked, really moist and tender. Although the other components had sounded interesting, they didn’t quite taste right with the lamb.
Organic Pork Belly and Cabbage Slaw Sandwich with Winter Vegetable Salad and Garlic Frites – the sandwich was scrumptious. All the elements were perfectly balanced...salty and fatty pork belly, acidity and crunch of the slaw, warm toasted bread. The fries, on the other hand, were a disappointment. They were soggy and no garlic was to be found.
Fried Polenta with Klug Farms Blueberries, Lemon Verbena, Smoked Brown Sugar Ice Cream – I loooooooved the flavors and textures of this dessert. Sweet, fruity, salty, smoky, starchy, creamy, crunchy…combined to make *the* most incredible bite. B said it reminded him of smoked blueberry pie (will have to figure out where to get one of those). I’ve never had polenta as part of dessert before, and it worked so well that I hope to find it in more!
Although there were a few missteps, I'd still recommend lunch at Blackbird. Good service, well executed proteins, and their fried polenta dessert was phenomenal (a MUST if you dine here). And of course, you really can’t beat their 3 course lunch for only $22.

BITE METER: Blackbird – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

August 21, 2010

Canteen – Didn’t Quench My Thirst or My Appetite

I’m a huge fan of Chef Dennis Leary’s Sentinel (takeout shop serving some of San Francisco’s best muffins and gourmet sandwiches), so I was looking forward to finally eating at his dinner establishment, Canteen. What a disappointment.

The restaurant feels like a cozy diner. The space is tiny and narrow with just 7 seats at the counter and a handful of small booths against the wall. But that's where the similarities with a diner end. The menu changes weekly depending on what’s in season and what the chef feels like cooking. Unfortunately for me, the food was mediocre and bland the night I dined there. And unlike many diners, the service was slow. They only have 2 seatings a night, and everyone comes in around the same time for each seating. This causes their 1 waitress to get slammed and leaves guests waiting. It also feels like a bit of a cattle call, shuffling people in and out at the same time.

Sea Scallops with Sweet Onion Puree, Coriander, Verjus – the only well executed dish of the night. The scallops were perfectly caramelized, while still soft and sweet on the inside. The sweet onion puree tasted wonderful and was light and frothy.


Veal and Ricotta Meatballs, Corn and Fava Bean Succotash – the meatballs were bland and boring. They needed some spice or flavor, which would have provided a better contrast to the fresh vegetables.
Gratin of Artichokes, Porcini Mushrooms, and Parmesan – this was more like mashed potatoes mixed with artichokes and mushrooms than a gratin. There was no golden crust, only mushiness. I’m surprised they served this as an entrée since its simplicity seemed more appropriate for a side dish. The mushrooms were good, but the artichokes were tasteless and added nothing to the dish. A very unsatisfying, one-note dish.
Lamb Loin with Ratatouille, Fresh Chickpeas, and Lamb Broth – the lamb was chewy and bland. They also didn’t give me a steak knife so was a pain to cut the meat. The only appetizing part about this dish was the smoky eggplant puree in the “deconstructed” ratatouille.
Butterscotch Pudding with Salted Hazelnuts – flavor was good, but the pudding was thin and runny. The watery consistency was a turn-off.
For the most part, my meal at Canteen was a bust. They made so many basic mistakes – poor seasoning, not serving food at the proper consistencies, and overcooking meat. The flavors and textures are so spot-on at Sentinel; it’s shocking that both places are run by the same person.

BITE METER: Canteen – 2.0 bites (out of 5.0)

August 14, 2010

Nopalito – Freshness You Can Taste

Fresh is the first word that comes to mind when I think about Nopalito. You can truly taste the freshness of their ingredients, which bring their Mexican dishes to life. Nopalito’s food has a contemporary California flair, but still stays true to traditional Mexican flavors.

Taco de Pescado al Pastor (seared fish in adobo, chile ancho, orange, salsa de morita y tomatillo) – pretty good, but the taco could have used more fish. The tangy orange was a nice contrast to the spice.
Quesadilla Roja con Chicharrón (chile mulato corn tortilla, crispy pork belly, salsa guajillo, jack cheese, queso fresco) – my favorite dish. The crunchy tortilla had a vibrant corn taste, while the flavors of the savory pork belly were accentuated by the little crispy bits of fried pork skin. I also appreciated how the quesadilla had a lot of substance without being too heavy or greasy.
Enchiladas de Mole con Pollo (tortillas, shredded chicken, sauce of chiles, chocolate, and nuts with queso fresco and refried pinquito beans) – B’s more of a mole fan than I am, but I enjoyed the subtle sweetness and spice of this mole. A simple and well-balanced dish.
WARNING: Bathroom goers beware! Nopalito only has ONE bathroom for its 60 guests, requiring a lengthy wait for those with small bladders. Not a good idea to drink too many cervezas here!

BITE METER: Nopalito – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

August 07, 2010

Roli Roti – Their Porchetta Sandwich *is* Worth the Wait!

Alright, I’ve converted. I was wrong for resisting so long. Roli Roti has won me over with their ridiculously amazing porchetta sandwich. I had their rotisserie chicken years ago and thought it was bland and dry, so I was baffled when I saw long lines forming in front of their truck at the Ferry Plaza over the past year. When I found out it was for the porchetta sandwich and not the chicken, I was still skeptical…but no longer. I have finally experienced the bliss of that delicious pork!! And I want more!

I arrived at the Farmers’ Market relatively early one morning and saw the line in front of Roli Roti wasn’t very long yet, so I thought might as well see what so many people have been standing in line for. Now I know…THE BEST DAMN PORCHETTA SANDWICH KNOWN TO MAN! Thick slabs of oh-so-juicy roasted pork, seasoned to perfection with rock salt and rosemary, topped with bits of crunchy pork cracklings, caramelized onions, and fresh arugula…all in a big, crispy roll. I tried to keep my cool, but I was swooning inside as I ate this.
I have little patience and find very few things worth waiting for with so many great food options in San Francisco. However, Roli Roti’s porchetta sandwich *is* worth the wait. I’m just sorry I’ve missed out on this for so long because of my skepticism. My advice to all of you would be to GO, AND GO EARLY!

BITE METER: Roli Roti (porchetta sandwich only) – 4.5 bites (out of 5.0)

August 01, 2010

Toro – Small Plates Packed with Big Flavors

Toro is one of my favorite restaurants in Boston. Fun, laid-back atmosphere, a menu filled with lots of tasty food, and outdoor seating on a warm, summer evening. I always look forward to Chef Ken Oringer’s scrumptious sea urchin creations (which he features in different forms at all of his restaurants)…he’s like Boston’s Uni King! Toro is Chef Oringer’s take on Spanish cuisine. My only pet peeve about this place is that they serve wine in water glasses – call me a snob, but proper stemware *does* make a difference in the taste of the wine.

Tomato and Watermelon Gazpacho – ahhhhh, so refreshing on a hot day. The gazpacho was served really cold (rather than just chilled) and effortlessly balanced the sweet and salty flavors.

Escalivada Catalana – this blend of wood-roasted eggplants, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and olive oil tasted wonderful spread over bread. It was thick, slightly sweet, and whet my appetite for the procession of small plates to come.
Uni Bocadillo – WOW! I relished in the bold flavors of this pressed uni sandwich with miso butter and pickled mustard seeds. Although the uni could have been fresher, it tasted soooooo good with the miso butter…biting through that hot, crispy bread into buttery, ocean flavors with a sharp zing from the mustard seeds. Mmmm!
Za’atar and Honey Glazed Pork Ribs – the sweet honey was a perfect complement to the Moroccan spice. The meat was a bit dry, but still fell right off the bones. The yogurt also added a cooling touch to the dish. Overall, the flavors brought a lightness to the otherwise heavy ribs.
Panza de Cerdo (crispy pork belly with sunchoke, escargot, fava beans and smoked maple crumble) – a fiesta of flavor! So many ingredients and tastes, all enhancing one another. The pork belly was cooked to perfection…meaty and fatty with a super, crispy layer of skin. The escargot was tender and smoky, adding a unique element to the dish.
Erizos en Suquet
(Catalan stew of sea urchin, lobster and crab meat) – it was like a rich and thick seafood bouillabaisse. While the taste of shellfish was evident in the stew, it was so salty that the sweet flavors of the lobster and crab meat were lost. I did appreciate the stew’s creamy, unctuous undertone from the sea urchin though.
Toro is my place to eat, drink and be merry in Boston!

BITE METER: Toro – 3.5 bites (out of 5)