November 30, 2009

Max’s Wine Dive – What Happened to Attention-to-Detail?

While I like the “gourmet comfort food and wine” concept of Max’s Wine Dive, their food still leaves something to be desired. Last time, I tried their fried chicken and Kobe beef burger (among many other things), but wasn’t really wowed. This time I went for brunch so I could have their signature fried egg sandwich…

The description on their menu reads: three pan fried eggs drizzled with truffle oil and Maldon sea salt, topped with three slabs of apple wood smoked bacon and Veldehuizen gruyere, organic bibb lettuce, hot house tomato, and black truffle aioli – all sandwiched between two pieces of artisan sourdough and served with hand-cut chips

Sounds good, right? Unfortunately, there was a big misstep from concept to execution. They failed by making the sandwich way too oily and didn’t have the correct proportion for the ingredients. My bread was soggy…not something you want went it’s brimming with stuff on the inside. So of course, it fell apart as I ate it. If there are already so many oily components to the sandwich (bacon, fried eggs, cheese, aioli), why not just toast the bread instead of grilling it on butter? Amidst all that grease, the bacon was the only ingredient that I could really taste. The sandwich needed more acidity/tomatoes to cut the grease, and the subtle gruyere and truffle flavors were lost. While the potato chips were nicely seasoned, they were also drenched and glistening with oil…what’s so hard about draining off the extra oil?! This had the potential to be a great meal, but it wasn’t due to simple mistakes. They need to put more care into making the food.

To sum it up, this was like a greasy sandwich that I’d get at any diner…ok, maybe slightly better, but definitely not “gourmet”. One thing Max's has going for them is their HUGE portion sizes (my sandwich was at least 8 inches long) and reasonable prices (average brunch item was about $12). However, does any of that matter if I don’t care to ever eat that sandwich again?

BITE METER: Max’s Wine Dive – 2.0 bites (out of 5)

November 29, 2009

VOICE – Sweet Melody of Tastes

I really enjoyed my experience at VOICE. Not only was I surrounded by the company of my family, but the food was wonderful, the wine was well-balanced and great with the food (MacPhail Anderson Valley Pinot Noir – 2005 or 2006), and the staff was friendly and attentive. We had a larger party, but they seated us a corner booth in the back so it still felt cozy. The restaurant is on the ground floor of the Hotel Icon and has very open layout with high ceilings, but the dark woods, classical-modern décor, and heavy fabrics made it more welcoming and warm.

Mushroom Soup “Cappuccino” – an elegant and creative presentation of mushroom soup. The crimini mushroom soup was creamy and full of rich, earthy flavors. The fluffy texture and delicate taste of the truffle foam added a layer of complexity, while the sprinkle of porcini powder completed the inviting “cappucino’ look. With the generous portion size, I happily shared my soup with B and still had plenty for myself.


Sous Vide Duck with Spring Onions, Tokyo Turnip, Fava Beans, Caraway Sauce – the duck was beautifully cooked…incredibly tender without feeling oily or fatty like duck often can. All of the duck’s natural flavor was retained through the sous vide preparation…it was so savory and meaty, almost like the duck had been tea-smoked. I was so enamored by the duck that I can’t remember a single thing about the vegetables…this was the best duck that I’ve had in a long time.
Bryan Farms Chicken with Pearl Onions, Swiss Chard, Garlic, Pan Butter – this was actually B’s entrée but deserves honorable mention because it was so outstanding. Bryan Farms is the well-known source for high quality chicken (hormone-free, all-natural feed, air-chilled) and you can definitely taste the difference. A pool of sumptuous pan butter sauce coated the warm, juicy chicken…so good that you want to lick your lips to savor ever last bit.
Parmesan Truffle Fries – very well seasoned and crispy…I can’t think of anything better to put on French fries than parmesan cheese and truffle oil. Needless to say, I greedily devoured these tasty sticks.
Warm Chocolate Cake & Crunchy Vanilla Ice Cream – It was good, but not exceptional. This is such a common dessert that I wish they had put a bit of a twist on it or made it really shine (as they’ve done with everything else). Also, I wouldn’t call ice cream “crunchy” if it’s just sitting on a bed of crumbs. Regardless, it was still a well executed dessert – moist chocolate cake with a sweet, molten center. (Disclaimer: My sweet tooth overpowered my brain so I accidentally took a few bites before taking the picture. Oops!)
VOICE takes simple ingredients and presents them in their best form, showcasing their true flavors. Their food is refined and focused. (Note: The only dish of the evening that wasn’t successful was my sister’s halibut and pasta dish…the halibut was oddly fishy and dry. So don’t order that if you go to VOICE.)

BITE METER: VOICE – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

November 28, 2009

Houston Home Cookin’ – Part Deux


N’s delicious (and relatively healthy!) brunch: Smoke salmon eggs benedict, roasted tomato and pesto pastry, fresh fruit






S’ special fried egg ramen: Nothing hits the spot at 2am after drinking like a piping hot bowl of spicy, salty ramen!


Seafood extravaganza with my parents: 2 steamed 4-lb lobsters (their claws were bigger than my hands!), 2 Dungeness crabs, and 8 sweet blue crabs…all for just 4 people!







November 27, 2009

Kata Robata - Great Grilled Food And So Much More

Kata Robata is probably the best Japanese food that I’ve had in Houston. Not surprisingly, I’m always a bit hesitant to eat Japanese or sushi in Texas after being spoiled by the incredible options in California, New York, and Japan, but the Lone Star State is finally getting some talent to turn things up a notch in Texas. [Recommendation: Uchi in Austin is the best Japanese restaurant that I’ve tried in Texas.]

Hamachi Sashimi with Yuzu-Jalapeno Oil – the citrus flavors from the yuzu and spicy kick from jalapeno complemented the buttery hamachi. I was also relieved the jalapeno slices weren’t very hot…would’ve been a shame to kill my palate at the beginning of the meal.
Robata Lamb – very tender with a lovely sweet glaze. Absolutely no gaminess to the lamb. Would have been even better had it been served at a warmer temperature.
Uni and King Crab Spoons – an amazing combination…creamy uni, sweet succulent crabmeat, salty bursts of tobiko, all covered in a refreshing soy-vinegar sauce. It had the makings of the ‘perfect bite’…if only the uni had been fresher. However, since there wasn’t that much uni on the spoon, the fishiness was very subtle and the whole thing was still delectable. I only notice because I’m an avid uni enthusiast.
Foie Gras and Scallop Sushi – a luscious, rich morsel of foie gras…nicely seared and just the right amount of kabayaki sauce. The foie completely dominated the scallop though; perhaps the sweetness of the scallop wouldn’t have been lost had it been sliced thicker. [Recommendation: Oya in Boston makes the *best* foie gras sushi - served balsamic chocolate kabayaki, it's heaven in a bite!]
“Fish and Chips” – great presentation…meaty chunks of battered fish served on its crunchy fried skeleton. The fish was deliciously warm and moist on the inside. The best part was the sweet, tangy mayo that accompanied it (I think it was infused with yuzu).
Shrimp and Uni Linguini – this should have been renamed ‘shrimp and truffle linguini’. I could not taste the uni at all, but the linguini did have a velvety creaminess to it. The earthy truffle flavors and sautéed mushrooms added a rich depth to the dish, while the fresh, plump shrimp nicely balanced the textures and flavors.
Hamachi Kama – next to the belly, the collar is the most fatty and delicious part of the yellowtail. This kama was perfectly grilled and had a rich, buttery flavor. It’s usually served with ponzu sauce, but not here…fortunately, the fish was so good that I didn’t really miss it.
Uni Chawanmushi – one of my favorites of the night. The steamed egg custard was heightened by the magnificent creaminess of the uni. The warm custard was light, yet comforting while the sliced shitake mushrooms and seaweed added the appropriate textural contrast. Umami!
Overall, the flavors were great, but still need a bit of refining. The service also needs work, and the ambience lacked character. My biggest complaint was that all of the food practically came out at the same time. They should have served the raw/lighter items first and paced the dishes so we could be enjoy them properly. If I come back to Kata Robata, I’d order just a few items at a time or sit at the sushi bar and order the chef’s omakase.

BITE METER: Kata Robata – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0 bites)

November 26, 2009

Turkey Day

I hope everyone enjoyed gorging themselves on food as much as I did over Thanksgiving. A special thanks to my sister for preparing such a wonderful feast. Some of the highlights were...

Cajun Turducken Stuffed with Crawfish and Rice


Sausage & Cheese Biscuits


Green Beans with Onions and Almond Slivers

November 22, 2009

Fall in Boston

One of my favorite places in Boston is the Public Garden, and the best time to enjoy it is during the fall when the trees turn brilliant shades of red and gold.


November 21, 2009

Rocca – Didn’t Rocca My World

Hidden off a side street in Boston’s South End, I was surprised by how large Rocca was when I walked inside. Two stories with high ceilings, exposed brick, and a contemporary lofty vibe – the restaurant felt more like San Francisco than Boston.

Portabella Pizzetta with Fontina, Mozzarella, Parmigiano, and Basil – it came out at the perfect temperature with warm gooey cheese, but the flavors were too subdued. I couldn’t really taste the tomatoes or the basil, which made me wonder about the quality of the produce. For something so simple, it’s especially critical that the ingredients be really fresh so their flavors stand out. Although the bottom of the pizzetta was crispy, the middle was very doughy – coupled with the soft toppings, the overall mushy consistency was unappealing. The whole thing reminded me of frozen pizza from the grocery store. This definitely looked better than it tasted.


Pappardelle with Wild Boar & Porcini Meatballs, Parsley-Lemon Breadcrumbs, and Parmigiano – the pasta could have been more al dente, but the extra wide papperdelle was still delicious. There was no skimping with the 3 huge wild boar and porcini meatballs…packed with nice salty and earthy flavors and no gaminess from the wild boar. The parsley-lemon breadcrumbs added nice zest to brighten the dish.
Braised Short Ribs with Brussels Sprouts, Red Onions, Butternut Squash Polenta, and Orange-Parsley Gremolata – The colors of this entrée were quite striking, but like the pizzetta, it didn’t taste as good as it looked. The components of this dish were all over the place and uncohesive. The short ribs were tender and moist, but needed salt. The polenta was like glue – completely bland with no butternut squash flavor to be detected. The orange zest in the gremolata tasted strange with the dish. The only thing done right was the brussels sprouts – fresh and buttery without the usual bitterness.
Apple Crostata with Cinnamon Gelato and Caramel – Average. The crostata had a nice flaky crust, and I liked the extra crunchy texture of the brown sugar grains.
I would probably only come back here to have a glass of wine at the bar and eat the papperdelle again. Actually, they served my wine in a water glass [Major pet peeve: When restaurants don’t use the proper stemware for wine]. Nevermind, it’s unlikely that I’ll be back.

BITE METER: Rocca - 2.5 bites (out of 5)

November 19, 2009

We All Scream for Ice Cream

We celebrated my coworker’s birthday with an ice cream cake from Bi-Rite Creamery…roasted banana ice cream, yellow cake, and buttercream frosting. The ice cream rocked (of course!) but the cake itself was suprisingly hard and dry – all still good nonetheless.
BTW – I finally had Bi-Rite’s salted caramel ice cream a few weeks ago. It’s absolutely sublime! Rich, creamy caramel with just a hint of salt on the finish – it was decadence and elegance in the same bite. My new favorite Bi-Rite flavor! [see previous Bi-Rite post]

November 16, 2009

Hiking and Noshing in Marin

To take advantage of the sunny Bay Area weather while autumn cools the rest of the country, B and I went hiking in the Marin Headlands. We hiked a few miles along the Coastal Trail and admired the stunning views of San Francisco – I definitely need to do this more often.


Of course, I immediately started thinking about food as we neared the end of our hike. I was craving some refreshing ceviche, so we headed to Guaymas for an afternoon “snack”…

Their strawberry margaritas are much larger than I had remembered. No complaints here!
Ceviche – this ceviche ‘sundae’ overflowed with fresh and meaty petrale sole. Refreshing and packed with a tart punch, this ceviche satisfied my craving. It could have used a tad more chopped tomatoes and onions for texture though.
Tostaditas Con Cangrejo – dense, crunchy corn tortillas piled with sweet king crab and creamy guacamole…my favorite dish of day! I loved the bright, savory taste of the Mojo de Ajo marinade. The tostaditas were a fiesta of flavors in my mouth. I only wish that there were more on the small plate!
Pollo En Mole – The chicken was well cooked, but the mole seemed off. The mole tasted flat and lacked complexity and kick.
BITE METER: Guaymas – 3.0 bites (out of 5.0)

November 15, 2009

Zuni Café – Worth the Revisit

I wasn’t particularly impressed during my dinner at Zuni Café several years ago, but I also didn’t have their ‘famous brick over chicken’ (made to order, it requires a 1 hour wait!). So when B surprised me with dinner at Zuni Café and tickets to Wicked, I made sure to have their roasted chicken this time. We had a tight schedule (5:30pm reservations and 7:30pm show time) but thanks to their efficient staff, we were able to enjoy our meal (including dessert!) without feeling too rushed or stressed about time. Since they don’t take orders for the chicken in advance, we asked the host to place our order as soon as we were seated.

I’d recommend sitting upstairs – it’s much cozier than the dining area on the ground level. Our waiter was wonderful - he did a fantastic job describing items on the menu and his recommendations were spot-on. The pacing of our courses was also well-timed, so it didn’t feel like we were waiting forever for the chicken.

Kusshi Oysters from British Columbia – What an impressive oyster selection! They had an extensive list of oysters, including kumamotos (my favorite) from 3 different regions. Our waiter suggested that I try the kusshi oysters since they are similar to the kumamotos but slightly larger and creamier…I fell in love! The kusshis were sweet and refreshing with a luscious creaminess.

House-cured Anchovies with Celery, Parmesan, and Niçoise Olives – simple, yet sublime. A perfectly balanced dish with really high quality ingredients. The anchovies were rich and oily, but not too overpowering or fishy. The parmesan provided a sharp flavor contrast, while the crunchy celery provided texture contrast. Not liking the taste of celery, I appreciated how the paper thin slices kept the flavor subtle enough for me to enjoy it.
Bellwether Farms Ricotta Gnocchi with Leeks – Heavenly pillows! The gnocchi had such an extraordinarily light and fluffy consistency – it was almost like they dissolved in my mouth. The leeks added a delicate, sweet onion flavor. The dish was buttery and rich yet also surprisingly light – needless to say, it was gobbled up in mere seconds!
Brick Oven Roasted Chicken for Two with Tuscan Warm Bread Salad – very tasty chicken…the skin was deliciously seasoned and the meat was extremely moist and tender. The warm bread salad added to the rustic and hearty feel of the dish, while the mustard greens, currants, and pine nuts rounded out the flavors and textures. I only wish the chicken had been served at a warmer temperature – not sure why it wasn't since it was made to order.
Crème Fraîche Panna Cotta with Wild Huckleberry Sauce – a great way to end a delicious meal. I was originally worried that the crème fraîche would give the panna cotta a sour tone, but instead it actually added a creamy complexity while keeping the panna cotta remarkably light. The sweet huckleberry sauce was a perfect complement. Unfortunately, I was so anxious to eat the dessert that I forgot to take a picture of it…OOPS!

I would definitely go back to Zuni Café again. This experience more than made up for my last one – this is why I believe you really have to dine at a restaurant more than once to get a true sense of a place. Although I thought the chicken was very good, I wouldn’t wait an hour for it again nor do I think it’s worth $48 (B disagrees) – I’d rather order some of the other entrees next time...or just feast on their incredible oysters!

[Btw – Wicked is EXCELLENT! It’s so fun and heartwarming. I highly recommend seeing the musical if you haven’t already.]

BITE METER: Zuni Café – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

November 01, 2009

Hubby Home Cookin'

Since my husband rarely cooks, I wanted to give him props for the lovely dinner he made last night – lemon caper halibut over roasted brussel sprouts with mushrooms and pancetta. Thanks, B!
BTW – Great news. We’ll be celebrating the New Year in Napa…and got French Laundry reservations!! Chef Keller’s food is absolutely phenomenal, and I look forward to going back!