Hakuunso Ryokan - A Relaxing Retreat

Since we were spending most of our time in Tokyo during this trip to Japan, I thought it’d be nice to get away for a weekend in Hakone. Only 90 minutes away by train, it’s the perfect destination for a quick trip outside the city. After researching several different ryokans (traditional Japanese inns), I decided on Hakuunsou – great reputation, high quality of accommodations and food, private bathrooms, and the clincher…our own onsen (hot springs bath) in our room!

Upon arrival, we were greeted with green tea and some refreshing snacks to enjoy while they checked us in.

Our room was pretty sizable for a ryokan, and we enjoyed hanging out on the balcony.
I loved having a private onsen in our room!! It was connected to our bathroom, then extended out onto the balcony…such a cozy place to sit back and relax. A small stream ran below our balcony. It was so soothing to hear the sounds of the water from our room. There's also a family onsen which can be reserved for private use. It’s housed in a cottage separate from the ryokan. The facilities were excellent.
The kaiseki dinner was served in our room - this is always my favorite part about staying at ryokans. The amount of care and energy it takes to bring each course (and there are many) into the room and serve all of the beautiful dishes really makes it special.

The evening’s menu was printed on pretty Japanese paper – I wish I could read Japanese.
Kaiseki meals are a form of art, showcasing local ingredients in their optimal taste, textures, and colors. Our first course consisted of silky steamed tofu, an assortment of seafood, and an apertif.Sashimi course with conch, tai, chu-toro, hirame, and maguro. The tai (red sea bream) was especially tasty and refreshing. I’ve never actually seen the wasabi root before, so I was impressed that our nakai (woman in charge of our room) gave us our own in case we wanted more than the amount she had grated for us.
Clear vegetable broth with a surprisingly light and airy ball of fish paste and red beans This rich and flavorful langoustine bouillabaisse was heated right at our table. Fresh vegetables and beef for us to cook on the hot plate with soy and ponzu sauce. Look at the lovely marbled fat on the beef (maybe Kobe…if only I could read the menu!)
Marinated and grilled fish with a bowl of stewed radish and yuba. The yellow dish in the back contains freshly ground pink salt. Lots of components to this course – baby shrimp tempura, miso soup, pickled veggies, and mushroom rice… … and sliced radish creatively presented in a kabuso fruit - the sweet and tangy flavors freshened my palate And last but not least, dessert – peach gelee, creamy and delicious peach custard, and super sweet cantaloupe.

I could definitely get used to waking up to sounds of a babbling brook and sunlight streaming in through the balcony. After a sound night's sleep (due to the wonders of hot baths and a full belly), our nakai comes to set up our room for breakfast - oh yes, another huge feast will be served in our room! :-9

Breakfast begins with hot green tea, sashimi (ika, maguro), and an assortment of pickled vegetables.

Then a soothing vegetable and tofu soup. We each had our own pot heated at the table.

I loved the rich savory taste of the grilled salmon. The colors of the fish were also beautiful.

Grilled mackerel with chawan-mushi (egg custard)

This langoustine miso soup was my favorite part of breakfast - the rich langoustine flavor gave it an extra level of depth.
Cold and refreshing egg custard.

Breakfast was finished off by ridiculously juicy and sweet pears and cantaloupe.
Our large table was literally FILLED with food -- now that's a breakfast of champions!

For anyone visiting Hakone, I would definitely recommend at least one night's stay at Hakuunsou. Comparing this to my other favorite ryokan experience, Hakuunsou wasn’t as luxurious as Hiiragiya (during my previous trip to Kyoto), but it had charm and I enjoyed the onsens here a lot more. I also thought Hakuunsou’s breakfast was better, while Hiiragiya served the superior kaiseki dinner. Regardless, both of these ryokans are fantastic and staying at either one would be a treat.

BITE METER: Hakuunsou Ryokan – 4.0 bites (out of 5)