Ending 2009 at the French Laundry

Praised to be one of the best restaurants in the U.S. (if not *the* best), dining at the French Laundry always feels special. Located in the heart of Napa Valley with its own expansive garden, the restaurant has a rustic yet graceful charm. This was my third trip to the French Laundry, and it was an excellent way to celebrate the end of 2009.
Salmon Tartar Cornets – Chef Thomas Keller’s signature amuse bouche – sophisticated flavors, yet fun to eat. Buttery smoked salmon with sesame tuille. What really sets it apart from all the imitations is the subtle sweetness of the red onion crème fraiche inside.
Cauliflower “Panna Cotta” – sweet, salty, and buttery all in the same bite. The delicate caviar was like silk filled with salty bursts. Panna cotta had nice, smooth consistency, and its restrained flavor allowed caviar to shine.
Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm – light and refreshing. However, this was my least favorite course of the meal. The flavors were too understated (almost boring) and what I could taste was disjointed. The hazelnuts were overpowering, while the black truffle shavings (surprisingly) didn’t do anything for the dish - a rare instance where truffles don’t automatically make everything better!
“Foie Gras de Canard au Torchon” – absolute decadence. The foie gras was creamy with rich undertones of the liver, but still relatively light for foie. My mouth was watering as I slathered the velvety foie gras over a thick slice of warm, toasted buttered brioche. The rich flavors and textures were balanced by the acidity and sweetness of Satsuma mandarins and crunchy Sicilian pistachios. To add a little fun, the dish was accompanied by 3 different kinds of salt – grey salt, Philippine salt, Jurassic pink salt (from salt mine over 40 million years old!). It was really interesting to experience how the different salts brought out different elements of the dish and slightly changed the tastes.
Nantucket Bay Scallops “Poêlées” – a whimsical presentation of the tiny Nantucket Bay scallops with sunchokes, apricots, niçoise olives, and broccolini. The adorable scallops were unbelievably sweet…almost tasted like honey. The olives were surprisingly delicate, adding just a hint of saltiness to the scallops.
“Caesar Salad” – heavenly. The butter-poached Maine lobster “mitts” were so sweet and lusciously plump. The lobster was complemented by the leafy flavors of romaine lettuce and the sharp bite from grated Bottarga di Muggine (cured fish roe). Behind the lobster was a garlic-parmesan pain perdu, which reminded me of polenta because it was so thick and creamy.
Salmon Creek Farms Pork Belly – a sophisticated play on “pork and beans” with winter bean cassoulet and tangy tomato compote. The pork belly was incredbily soft and tender…like butter. I really enjoyed eating this dish (must be the Texan in me!). It’s a perfect example of how deconstruction can still be comforting and cohesive.
Marcho Farms Nature-fed Veal – elegant piece of veal with clean flavors and a nice, salty crust. The Chateaubriand (center cut of the tenderloin) was beautifully and evenly cooked…impressive considering how thick it was. The veal was accompanied by horseradish crème fraiche, creamy potato puree, and Brussels sprouts. I usually loathe beets, but these sous vide gems were really sweet and didn’t have that usual sourness – not surprising though since my previous meal at the French Laundry was the first time that I tasted *delicious* golden beets.
“Fourme d’Ambert” – this gorgeous cheese course looked both untamed and extravagant. The sweet French prunes and currant bread slices were perfect contrasts to the pungent blue cheese. However, I could have done without the roasted fennel – its taste and texture was odd with the blue cheese.
“Dark and Stormy” – a play on the dark ‘n’ stormy cocktail to cleanse our palates. The pineapple sorbet was bright and refreshing, while the spiced gingerbread provided a little kick.
“Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari” – the dessert sounds French but definitely has a Southeast Asian influence. There was a lot going on, but the flourless Valrhona cocoa nibs took center stage. They were topped by spicy and sour mango-chili relish, and accompanied with a creamy coconut milk sorbet and a lime-infused whipped cream. The dessert was all over the place, but enjoyable overall.
Pecan Tart with Chantilly Cream – light and crunchy. Unlike the dense filling found in pecan pies, the pecans in this tart were much lighter…almost as if they had been popped like kettle corn or rice crispies.
Truffles & Chocolate-covered Macadamia Nuts – all of the truffles were wonderful (green tea, maple, peanut butter, pumpkin, caramel, peppermint) and so pretty. If I had to choose, my favorite was the pumpkin truffle – it tasted like a chocolate covered morsel of pumpkin pie…Mmmm. And these chocolate-covered macadamia nuts were sublime!
This is where the magic happens! B and I were fortunate enough to get a tour of the kitchen after our meal. Given the number and complexity of the courses, the kitchen was much smaller and calmer than I had expected. All of the stations were very organized and clean.
The sous vide machines (this picture is for you, S!)

BITE METER: French Laundry – 4.6 bites (out of 5)