Rocca – Didn’t Rocca My World

Hidden off a side street in Boston’s South End, I was surprised by how large Rocca was when I walked inside. Two stories with high ceilings, exposed brick, and a contemporary lofty vibe – the restaurant felt more like San Francisco than Boston.

Portabella Pizzetta with Fontina, Mozzarella, Parmigiano, and Basil – it came out at the perfect temperature with warm gooey cheese, but the flavors were too subdued. I couldn’t really taste the tomatoes or the basil, which made me wonder about the quality of the produce. For something so simple, it’s especially critical that the ingredients be really fresh so their flavors stand out. Although the bottom of the pizzetta was crispy, the middle was very doughy – coupled with the soft toppings, the overall mushy consistency was unappealing. The whole thing reminded me of frozen pizza from the grocery store. This definitely looked better than it tasted.

Pappardelle with Wild Boar & Porcini Meatballs, Parsley-Lemon Breadcrumbs, and Parmigiano – the pasta could have been more al dente, but the extra wide papperdelle was still delicious. There was no skimping with the 3 huge wild boar and porcini meatballs…packed with nice salty and earthy flavors and no gaminess from the wild boar. The parsley-lemon breadcrumbs added nice zest to brighten the dish.
Braised Short Ribs with Brussels Sprouts, Red Onions, Butternut Squash Polenta, and Orange-Parsley Gremolata – The colors of this entrée were quite striking, but like the pizzetta, it didn’t taste as good as it looked. The components of this dish were all over the place and uncohesive. The short ribs were tender and moist, but needed salt. The polenta was like glue – completely bland with no butternut squash flavor to be detected. The orange zest in the gremolata tasted strange with the dish. The only thing done right was the brussels sprouts – fresh and buttery without the usual bitterness.
Apple Crostata with Cinnamon Gelato and Caramel – Average. The crostata had a nice flaky crust, and I liked the extra crunchy texture of the brown sugar grains.
I would probably only come back here to have a glass of wine at the bar and eat the papperdelle again. Actually, they served my wine in a water glass [Major pet peeve: When restaurants don’t use the proper stemware for wine]. Nevermind, it’s unlikely that I’ll be back.

BITE METER: Rocca - 2.5 bites (out of 5)