July 10, 2010

Kauai Grill – Lost in Transit

Kauai Grill is celebrated Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first restaurant in Hawaii. I’ve been to many of his restaurants around the world and feasted on some incredible meals (especially at his signature restaurant in New York). However, I find that Jean-Georges’ vision seems to get lost on his island outposts. As with my experience at his restaurant in Bora Bora, I found myself disappointed with the food at Kauai Grill. It was a sloppy shadow of the Jean-Georges empire built on exciting flavors and precise techniques.

Ginger Ahi Tuna Tartar – I actually ordered this appetizer from the bar while watching the sunset before dinner, and ironically, it was the best dish of the evening. It was refreshing yet bursting with flavor. I loved the balance of the sweet ginger with the salty soy sauce and the spicy chili oil…all enhanced by the creamy avocado. The sliced radish was a creative idea for crispy “chips” to eat with the tartar. Btw, the Jean-Georges ginger margarita cocktail was AWESOME with this (as well as on its own!)
Black Bean Braised Octopus – while I liked the strong taste of the fermented black bean sauce with the tender octopus, the octopus was way too salty to thoroughly enjoy. This dish would have been so much better had they not killed it with salt and balanced it with more acidity.
Seed & Nut Crusted Moi in Brown Butter Emulsion – as you can see, this dish did not look very appetizing…way too much brown on the plate and reminded me of something I did NOT want to be thinking about at the dinner table! Unfortunately, it didn’t taste very good either. The fish was mushy despite the seed crust, and the flavors were flat and uninteresting.
Butter-Poached Kona Lobster with Artichoke Hearts and Yuzu Aioli – the lobster was cooked to perfection…sweet and succulent with a delicate buttery flavor. However, the accompanying components were all wrong with the lobster. The yuzu aioli was too heavy, especially since the lobster was already poached in butter, and the bland artichoke hearts were a strange pairing with the lobster. I wished they had added something bright or more complex to complement the lobster.
Bruléed Banana Bread with Caramel Ice Cream – the banana bread was a little dry, but had nice flavor and tasted good with the caramel ice cream.

To sum it up, the food wasn’t bad, but it still needs refinement and didn’t live up to the Jean-Georges name. The dining room also lacked personality. It felt hollow and out of place for Kauai with its flashy decor of red lights and large swanky booths. The service was also quite amateur. Our waiter was slow, inattentive, and wasn't knowledgeable on the wines or food. Even the hotel’s other restaurant had more proficient waiters.

Based on my experience, I’d recommend ordering the restaurant’s tuna tartar and the Jean-Georges signature cocktails from the St. Regis hotel bar instead of dining at Kauai Grill. The atmosphere on the bar’s terrace is much more open and pleasant. [Tip: If you do decide to eat at the Kauai Grill, make sure to request a table by the window with your reservation. Like every other place inside the St. Regis, the views are gorgeous.]

BITE METER: Kauai Grill – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

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