Toqué! – Fine Dining With a Relaxed Elegance

After arriving in Montreal, B and I quickly got dressed for dinner at Toqué. This was my first time to Montreal, so it was a treat to dine at one of the city’s top restaurants as an introduction to its food scene.

For some reason, I had pictured a formal and reserved French restaurant, but Toqué was quite the opposite. The décor was contemporary and had an open feel with high ceilings and lots of light filling the dining room. The staff was youthful and friendly. The restaurant’s vibe was one of relaxed elegance. And the same can be said about the food. It was sophisticated and modern French cuisine, but with more restraint and a lighter touch.

Amuse Bouche – chilled tomato soup with herb foam

Princess Scallops marinated with rhubarb water, radish, strawberries, wasabi mousse – colorful presentation. The rhubarb water enhanced the sweetness of scallops while also making it refreshing. However, if eaten with more than one piece of strawberry, the taste of the scallop was lost.
Steamed Razor Clam, coriander, escarole, ginger, spicy soy vinaigrette – the clam was steamed to perfection and had the most amazing texture – soft and chewy without being rubbery. The clam’s delicate sweetness was balanced perfectly by the restrained use of spicy and savory Asian flavors.
Foie Gras, green apple essence, potato confit, asparagus, peas, turnips – WOW, I never knew foie gras could taste like spring! The foie was amazingly light and elegant with just a hint of sweetness (as opposed to the usual additions of strong sweet or salty ingredients with foie gras). I was told that Chef Laprise doesn’t season the foie with anything to keep it super plump and luscious. Beautiful dish!
Ribeye Carpaccio, white asparagus, popcorn powder, shitake mushrooms, miso, wasabi infused oil - the BEST CARPACCIO to have ever graced my lips! I don’t even know where to start – there was so much complexity and layers of flavor in this carpaccio. I especially loved the earthy richness of shitake mushrooms with the beef and that hit of flavor from the miso. I also appreciated the cleansing bites of herb provided by the chopped scallions. The portion size was perfect for this robust dish.
Squab, turnips, heirloom carrot, pearl onion - it was bold move to include the squab’s clawed foot in the dish and definitely made for a striking presentation. The leg was awesome with that lovely rich taste of dark meat, while the other parts of the squab were super moist and tender from being sous vide.
Hercules Cheese, mushrooms, asparagus, fried shallots, wildflower honey – much more fun than your ordinary cheese plate. I was impressed by the paper thin slice of cheese given how large the cheese wedge was. Lovely combination of flavors and textures – velvety cheese, juicy mushrooms, sweet honey, salty and crunchy fried shallots.
Rhubarb Sorbet, Meringue on Strawberry & Maple Foam – the meringue was light and sweet, but the rhubarb sorbet was too tart for my taste.
Overall, I was impressed by my dinner at Toqué. It was evident how much care and technique went into each course, and I could taste the freshness of the seasonal ingredients. The food was relatively light yet had so complexity. Each bite brought in different elements of the dish, continually building on the sophisticated flavors…and kept my taste buds intrigued. The ~$100/person price for the meticulously prepared 7 course Chef’s Tasting Menu also kept my wallet happy. I have yet to find this caliber of food for that price in the U.S.

BITE METER: Toqué! – 4.2 bites (out of 5)