May 30, 2010

Oleana – Moussaka Me!

Oleana has been on my list of restaurants to try in the Boston area. Located in Cambridge, Oleana takes a modern approach to Eastern Mediterranean cuisine, which results in sultry, delicious food. The restaurant has a warm and comfortable atmosphere, while the staff gives just the right amount of friendliness and attentiveness. [TIP: Get a table on their patio. It’s a fantastic place to dine on a summer evening and has the charm of a friend’s backyard, only bigger!]

Octopus Salad with Kaparosalata & Fava Toast – beautifully prepared and oh-so-tender. The octopus was meaty yet had a delicate ocean flavor. The octopus was nicely balanced by the acidity of the capers and the firm fava beans on the crunchy toast.
Sultan’s Delight: Tamarind Glazed Beef & Smokey Eggplant Purée with Pinenuts – the beef was good, but the eggplant purée stole the spotlight in this dish. It was so creamy and luscious…Mmmm! The braised beef was quite tender, falling apart with just a fork. I also enjoyed the subtle and elegant use of the tamarind, since it’s usually more of an in-your-face flavor.
Flattened Lemon Chicken with Za’atar & Turkish Cheese Pancake – the chicken was overcooked and dry, but the skin had a lovely crisp and lots of flavor from the za’atar. Eating the chicken with the Turkish cheese pancake helped give it some moistness and richness. This was the only dish I didn't like…I knew I should have ordered the Morrocan-spiced shrimp. Next time.
Moussaka: Minced Lamb & Eggplant Pie with Whipped Fava – *sigh*, this dish brought me back to the Greek islands, and I could almost see its cobalt blue waters again. This moussaka was made perfectly, and it’s served as a side dish so the portion is just right…looooooooved it! It was lighter and fluffier than traditional moussakas, but without sacrificing any of the flavors. The ground lamb was rich and savory with just a hint of spice. Seriously, this is *my* kind of comfort food and the best dish of the night.
Frozen Meyer Lemon Soufflé with Pistachio Milk Glacé & Pistachio Katmer on Hibiscus Syrup – the perfect ending to a lovely meal. I appreciated how they revamped the traditional Mediterranean desserts, as well as the simple yet sophisticated presentation. The frozen soufflé had the texture of a frozen custard or semifreddo – it was creamy and sweet, but the meyer lemon added a bright and fresh element to the dessert. The pistachio katmer is similar to the flaky, rich baklava – a nice contrast to the soufflé. And the pistachio milk glacé (ice cream) tied everything together. DELISH!
Oleana, I’m coming back for your moussaka (as well as your other tasty bites)!

BITE METER: Oleana – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

May 28, 2010

Maria’s Pastry Shop – The Perfect Cannoli

Filled fresh to order, the cannolis from Maria’s Pastry Shop are the BEST IN BOSTON. One day I was feeling especially piggyish and decided to do my own cannoli tasting in Boston. I got cannolis from the three most popular pastry shops in the North End – Mike’s, Modern, and Maria’s (funny how they all start with the letter ‘M’). Maria’s was by far the best…the ricotta cheese filling was sweetened just enough (i.e. you still could tell it was ricotta cheese) and the delicate shell had the perfect crunch because they fill it *after* you order it. Simple yet perfect.
Modern was my second favorite, and Mike’s was a distant third. They put too much crap on the cannolis at Mike’s Pastry. Also the fried shell was way too thick, and filling tasted like pure sugar (like the cheap frosting they put on cupcakes at supermarkets). It’s so ironic because Mike’s is always jam packed with crowds and tourists – I guess it shows what good marketing can do for a business.

On the other hand, that’s a bonus for me. The crazy crowds are elsewhere, and I rarely have to wait in line at Maria’s…woo-hoo! Without fail, I always get the perfect cannoli which spreads a huge smile on my face everytime I come here. To top it all off, Maria's also has a charming, Italian ‘mom & pop’ shop feel to it, while the other pastry shops are more flashy and less personal.

BITE METER: Maria’s Pastry Shop – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

May 26, 2010

Ginger Park – A Painful Brunch

After my great Southeast Asian-inspired brunch at Double Crown in NY, I had hoped my brunch at Ginger Park would be just as enjoyable since they draw from similar concepts. Unfortunately, that was as far the similarities went between the two restaurants. My brunch at Ginger Park was a train wreck. The service was horrible, and the food was mediocre at best. The only thing interesting about Ginger Park was the interior – it’s like being inside of a whale skeleton.
I can’t recall the last time that I’ve had service this bad (thank goodness). It took forever for a waiter to greet us. Then I had to wait 15 minutes for my green tea, and it was overseeped and way too bitter when it finally came out. If you’re not going to give me my own tea bag and bring it out pre-made in a cup, then at least make it correctly (but really, how do you mess up green tea?!). It took so long that I didn’t even bother asking for another one. We also had to ask for cream for my husband’s coffee multiple times from various people before it was finally brought out. On top of this, our orders also didn’t come out correctly…ridiculous! The restaurant was less than half full, so I know the poor service wasn’t due to them being busy. Is it possible that the *entire* staff was hungover from the previous night?

Thai Beef & Green Papaya Salad, Lemongrass Caramel Dressing – the flavors weren’t bad, but the texture was all wrong. The green papaya wasn’t fresh, so it was rubbery instead of haven that firm crunch.

Duck Confit Hash, Two Eggs & Green Onion Sauce - the egg was supposed to be over-easy, but was served overcooked instead. This dish was really greasy, but at least the duck tasted good.

Asian Pulled Pork Sandwich with Home-Made Chips – these potato chips were atrocious! Instead of being crispy, it tasted as if they’d been soaking in salt water - they were extremely soggy and oversalted. I never knew potato chips could taste gross, but apparently they can at Ginger Park. When I asked our waiter if this was the way the chips were supposed to be, he replied, “Yes, because they’re home-made”. Since when did “home-made” become an excuse for “horrible”?! I thought it meant made with care. Anyways, the pulled pork sandwich was decent and the meat was moist, but that’s about it.
I did not even look at the dessert menu here. Had to get out of this place…PRONTO!

BITE METER: Ginger Park – 1.0 bites (out of 5.0)

May 24, 2010

Scampo – Jailhouse Rock

It may sound strange, but my favorite thing about Scampo is the building it’s in. The restaurant is inside the chic Liberty Hotel, which used to be a jailhouse - the hotel’s lobby is so cool and unique. As for the food at Scampo, it was hit and miss – but pretty good overall.

Bread Sticks w/ Fava Bean Puree – more fun than your average bread bowl
Mozzarella w/ King Crab, Cocktail Avocado & Green Mustard Oil – one of the many options from their “mozzarella bar”. I love the taste of fresh-made mozzarella, and it went really well with the salsa and avocado. However, I preferred to eat the king crab by itself, so I could better appreciate its sweet succulence. There are very few instances where seafood and cheese should be eaten together, and this wasn’t one of them. Overall, a light and refreshing appetizer.
Spinach Gnocchi Gnudi w/ Verdicchio and Squid Butter – one of the more interesting gnocchi dishes that I’ve had…like eating spinach dip in gnocchi form. It was rich but still delicate. The baby squid was super tender, and the squid butter added a nice seafood depth to the sauce. I really enjoyed this dish and would order it again.
Spaghetti Vongole – just ok. The texture of pasta was good, but this dish had way too many red pepper flakes. The spice overpowered the flavor of the clams.
Broccoli Rabe w/ Crisp Polenta Croutons – I would not recommend this side. It was way too bitter, and I didn’t want any more after the my first bite.

Pineapple Cake with Ice Cream – average

BITE METER: Scampo – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

May 23, 2010

o ya – Oh Yeaaaaaaaah!

o ya is one of the best Japanese restaurants I’ve been to in the U.S., and by far my favorite restaurant in Boston (no other place even comes close). I’ve been to o ya several times and never want my meal to end whenever I’m here. I revel in the excitement and joy that each course brings. Chef/owner Tim Cushman has an innovative approach to sushi – each piece is comprised of elaborate components and beautiful sauces.
There is a quiet confidence to o ya. It’s tucked away on a nondescript side street, inside an old firehouse. The staff is efficient, yet welcoming. And most of all, I love sitting at the counter and watching the smooth precision of the sushi chefs – they have a multitude of ingredients to work with and so many dishes to make, yet they remain completely cool and execute each painstaking dish with such grace.

Poochi-Poochi Sparkling Sake – fun to say and even more fun to drink!
KUMAMOTO OYSTER, watermelon pearls, cucumber mignonette – refreshing and pleasant way to prepare our palates for the food to come.
SHIMA AJI & SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN, ceviche vinaigrette, cilantro – the ceviche vinaigrette stands out front and center with its bold citrus zest with a spicy kick, almost upstaging (while also complementing) the firm fish and sweet uni.

DIVER SCALLOP, sage tempura, olive oil bubbles, meyer lemon – the light olive oil foam brought out the velvetiness of the scallops, while the sage tempura added a crunchy surprise inside.

SUZUKI SEA BASS, cucumber vinaigrette, avocado, cilantro – if the color green could have a taste, this would be it. This was like biting into a fresh garden with its crisp flavors and textures. It made the suzuki sashimi (which I usually find boring) bright and interesting.
HAMACHI BELLY, yuzu soy marinated sea urchin – absolutely sublime. The hamachi belly was super buttery, and the creamy, unctuous uni heightened it into pure pleasure. I was actually moaning while eating this, it was so incredible.

SCOTTISH SALMON, spicy sesame ponzu, yuzu kosho, scallion oil – although the salmon was lovely, the sauce was too oily and salty. It needed more acid or something to contrast the salmon.

HAMACHI, viet mignonette, thai basil, shallot – I thought the fish sauce would totally overwhelm the hamachi (like it did at Le Bernardin), but the butteriness of the hamachi actually shined through the strong flavors. I also appreciated the hint of spice and crunchy bits of fried shallots.

HOUSE SMOKED MOULLARD DUCK TATAKI, foie gras kabayaki, arima sansho – great savory flavor, but a little chewy…or maybe it just seemed chewy after being spoiled by all the melt-in-your-mouth fish. You mean I actually have to chew my food now?!

SALMON, unfiltered wheat soy moromi, yuzu – B’s favorite dish of the evening. Similar to the direction they were going with the Scottish Salmon dish (see above), but the components here were much better balanced. The soy moromi reminded me of fermented black beans, only much lighter and less salty. It intensified the salmon and added more dimension to the fish.
SHIMA AJI, spicy grapeseed sauce, masago – really interesting. The grapeseed oil tasted almost like truffle oil, giving the shima aji an earthy tone and a nice, spicy finish.
FRIED KUMAMOTO OYSTER, yuzu kosho aioli, squid ink bubbles – a fun and unique bite. The fried oysters are crunchy and briny, while the yuzu aioli and squid ink give it a rich complexity.

ONSEN EGG, dashi sauce, truffle salt, homemade pickled garlic – I never thought I’d use the word luscious to describe an egg, but that’s what this was. This slow poached egg was soft, silky, and absolute perfection with the truffle salt and savory dashi sauce.
FRIED SOFT SHELL CRAB, soy sesame mousse, tamari yuzu beurre blanc, meyer lemon zest – the best soft shell crab I’ve had. I could actually taste the sweet crabmeat inside and the delicate shell wasn’t over-battered. The swirl of sauces were thick and rich, with a bit of tang.

SEARED WAGYU PETIT STRIP LOIN, potato confit, sea salt, white truffle oil – the epitome of decadence. The potato slices are actually cooked in the Wagyu fat (suddenly duck fat doesn’t seem so special)! By itself, this Wagyu wasn’t as good as the Kobe and Saga beef I’ve had in Japan, but when I ate it with the crisp potato confit and truffle oil, the marbled beef tasted like truffle butter….orgasmic!!
FOIE GRAS, balsamic chocolate kabayaki, raisin cocoa pulp – a bite of heaven! I order this every time I come to o ya. The perfectly seared foie melts into the sweet-savory chocolate kabayaki sauce when you put it in your mouth. Its rich velvetiness will transport you to another world. And if that isn’t enough, the dish is served with a small glass of aged sake – the foie gras brings out the smooth honey notes of the sake. This is one of my all-time favorite eats!
TRES LECHES SOAKED BOSTON CRÉME PIE, ocumare chocolate, sesame – unfortunately, the dessert wasn’t as successful as the rest of the meal. The wonderful richness of the tres leches was distorted by the sesame. I didn’t care for the flavors of this dessert and wish it had more textural contrast…too much mushiness. Next time, I’ll stick with my usual – the balsamic chocolate foie gras and aged sake are truly the perfect finish to the meal.

o ya is one of the few places where I want *everything* on the main menu, which says a lot considering their extensive list of items. So many menu options, so much creativity – all makes for an exciting, fun-filled ride for the taste buds. Their exquisite plating makes it a feast for the eyes as well. Speaking of eye candy, Jake Gyllenhaal was sitting at the table behind me. He’s just as cute in person as he is on the big screen. *sigh*

FYI – the dishes are pricey and quickly add up (especially if you eat like I do), so you should be prepared to loosen up your wallets. However, it’s well worth it – a small price to pay to enter food heaven. I always leave o ya looking forward to my next visit!

BITE METER: o ya – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

May 07, 2010

ABC Kitchen - The Basics with a Jean Georges Touch

ABC Kitchen is Chef Jean Georges’ newest restaurant (making this his 9th in New York). Following California’s organic farm-to-table movement, I had expected ABC Kitchen to be good, but didn’t think it would stand out from many similar restaurants in San Francisco. I’m glad I was wrong.

The food was straightforward and rustic, but still exuded Jean Georges’ talent and mastery of flavors. I was impressed by how incredible the simplest things (like carrots!) tasted. I had been gorging myself with so much food during this New York trip that I wasn’t hungry at dinnertime, but the food was so good here that I couldn’t help but to stuff myself some more…

Peekytoe Crab Toast – this could not have been better! The crab was really fresh with just a bit of dressing to enhance its sweetness, while the dill gave it some bite. The grilled bread also had a nice crunch and smokiness.


Roasted Carrot and Avocado Salad with Crunchy Seeds and Citrus – ok, I’m not one to get excited about carrots, but these carrots were AMAZING!! Best.carrots.ever. They had so much depth and flavor, brought out by the light curry rub. All of the components of this salad tasted beautiful together, especially with zing of the sour cream. My favorite dish of the night!
Clam, Mint, and Parsley Pizza – this is the type of dish that I usually associate Jean Georges with…creative, and a fusion of exciting flavors and styles. I really enjoyed this whole wheat pizza – it wasn’t grainy or bland (as whole wheat pizzas can be), yet was still light and a treat for the taste buds…plump, savory clams and a spicy punch from the chili peppers.

Wood Oven Roasted Maine Lobster with Oregano and Lemon Vinaigrette – I had ordered this entrée because I was still jonesing for lobster after tasting N’s lobster at Le Bernardin. Although it was interesting to have a more rustic preparation of lobster and the wood oven gave the lobster a unique smokiness, I probably wouldn’t order this dish again. It tasted good, but lacked the sweetness and succulence that I love so much in lobster.
Salted Caramel-Peanut Ice Cream Sundae with Candied Popcorn, Whipped Crème Fraiche, Chocolate Sauce – now this is my kind of ice cream sundae! Fun and decadent, yet elevated to a new level by the sophisticated combination of flavors and textures. Loooooooved that salted caramel-peanut ice cream! I also adored the handmade porcelain bowl it was served in (they had lots of charming, vintage-inspired dinnerware).
In addition to the delicious food, ABC Kitchen also had great service and a unique vibe. I liked the contrast of its simple white furniture and white brick walls with the exposed wooden beams throughout the restaurant. It was modern and minimalist, yet still incorporated natural elements and felt inviting. Oh, and the restaurant is located inside a furniture store, although it definitely did not feel like it!

BITE METER: ABC Kitchen – 4.3 bites (out of 5)

May 05, 2010

Rice to Riches – Rice Pudding Heaven

I love rice pudding, but never knew it could come in so many fun flavors…until I entered Rice to Riches! Set up like a futuristic dessert shop, they have 15-20 different kinds of rice pudding…and you can try as many flavors as you like. Some of the more creative ones include: Sex Drugs & Rocky Road, Fluent In French Toast, and Pope Pina Colada II.
My personal favorites were the Man-Made Marscapone with Cherries and the Almond Shmalmond, both heaped into a colorful “flying saucer” bowl (I hope they recycle all this plastic). Thick, creamy, and oh-so-sweet on the lips…just make sure to not wear any tight clothing while indulging on this incredibly rich treat!
BITE METER: Rice to Riches – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

May 02, 2010

Double Crown - Mmmm...Daikon Fries

There are two words I want to leave you with about Double Crown…daikon fries…daikon fries…daikon fries!! Indeed everything is better fried, and it's epitomized by Double Crown’s daikon fries. Less like slices of the actual daikon root, and more like thick fried cuts of the daikon/radish cake served at Chinese dim sum…warm, starchy center surrounded by a salty crust, and coated with a spicy sriracha mayonnaise…PERFECTION!
Another reason to have brunch at Double Crown is their specials:
$20 – cocktail, entrée, and coffee/tea
$32 – all you can drink Bloody Mary’s, entrée, and coffee/tea (they have a fun DIY Bloody Mary Bar with all the fixings you could possibly think of and more…like Vietnamese fish sauce!)
The restaurant’s cuisine is inspired by the British colonization of Southeast Asia; hence the name Double Crown. The cocktails are also creative and quite tasty (like the Anjou Pear & Darjeeling Fizz).

Spicy beef salad with pickled green mango – exactly what I was hoping this dish would be…tender slices of beef tossed with tart and spicy strands of green mango. Great texture and in-your-face bold flavors.
Crispy pork belly with chili caramel, mint, and fried egg on steamed rice – my mouth was watering when I saw this dish on the menu. It sounded incredible, but they totally missed it on the execution…the pork belly was dry and overcooked (a sad day for pork belly!), and the chili caramel sauce was too faint.
Sambal prawns with scrambled eggs, tomatoes, and avocado – the flavors and components came together really well in this dish…sweet, smoky prawns, creamy avocado, savory eggs, and just enough acidity from the tomatoes.
Lively atmosphere, interesting food, reasonable prices…and most importantly, their daikon fries!

BITE METER: Double Crown – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

May 01, 2010

Le Bernardin – Symphony of Seafood

It’s difficult to not be spellbound by Le Bernardin’s many accolades, Michelin stars, and celebrity status of Chef Eric Ripert. I had been kicking myself for years after having B cancel our reservations during a previous trip to New York (too much planned that weekend, and I didn’t want to rush through the meal), and each time I saw Chef Ripert’s charming personality featured in a magazine or on TV, I felt that pang of regret all over again. So of course, dining at Le Bernardin was a top priority for this trip.

Walking in, the restaurant felt much less formal and chic than I had expected. It was subdued with soft brown woods and leather, while seascape paintings of Brittany added a touch of color on the walls. While the décor had a warm feel, it also felt a bit outdated, especially in contrast to the sleek and modern table settings.

I found the menu to be a bit overwhelming. There were 2 different tasting menus, and a 4 course ala cart menu. We decided to go for the ala carte so we could have more variety and taste each others’ dishes (there were 4 of us). However, with over 10 different seafood options for each course, there was a little too much to choose from. I do applaud their style of focusing on a main ingredient and not overworking the food – the menu was broken into Almost Raw, Barely Touched, and Lightly Cooked, and Dessert sections. And the presentation of the food was clean and graceful.

Amuse Bouche – fluke sashimi with citrus vinaigrette. Light and refreshing. Good way to whet our palates for the procession to come.


Tuna
- thinly pounded yellowfin tuna over a fine layer of foie gras and toasted baguette with shaved chives and extra virgin olive oil. Absolutely sublime. The foie gras was light enough that it didn’t overpower the tuna, but added a rich lusciousness that made me want to close my eyes as I ate it…it was like eating toro (fatty tuna) and ankimo (monkfish liver) in one bite. All that decadence was then balanced by the delicate crunch of the wafer-thin toast. This dish was magnificent!


Octopus - charred octopus with fermented black bean-pear sauce vierge, ink-miso vinaigrette, and purple basil. Our waiter had recommended this dish to me, and I’m so glad he did. The octopus was beautifully cooked…so soft and tender with a gentle char, while the fermented black beans delivered a sharp, salty punch of flavor.
Sea Urchin Pasta topped with Organically Grown Farm-Raised Osetra Caviar - I had been dreaming of this special “off-the-menu” dish ever since I saw it featured on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations: Food Porn episode. I could practically taste the sea urchin coated pasta sliver down my throat and the caviar bursting in my mouth. I’m sorry to say that this dish did not live up to the dream. It was definitely good, but the pasta was didn’t quite encapsulate the amazing flavors of the sea urchin. It lacked complexity, and surprisingly, didn’t taste very different than a standard cream sauce. The pasta also didn’t do the beautiful beads of osetra caviar justice. This was especially disappointing since this dish cost an additional $120 on top of the set menu price.

Pear - cinnamon caramel parfait, liquid pear, smoked sea salt, fromage blanc sorbet. Deliciously sophisticated…I thoroughly enjoyed the many layers of flavors and textures in this dessert, especially the capsules of liquid pear.
Petit Fours - pistachio cherry tart, mini beignet, chocolate caramel, orange gelee. Dainty morsels of sweetness. The creme inside the tiny beignet was a nice surprise.

Because we love to share, I was also able to try a number of other dishes from my dining companions…

Sea Urchin – sea urchin roe on a bed of jalapeno–wasabi jam, seaweed salt, and wakame-orange scented broth. Mmmmm…there are few things better in this world than fresh sea urchin roe. Although jalapeno and wasabi usually have very strong flavors, they were mastered in a way so that just their essence was captured and enhanced the creamy, delicate sea urchin.
Hamachi – Vietnamese style marinated hamachi with nuoc mam vinaigrette. I love the sweet, sour, and pungent flavors of nuoc mam (Vietnamese fish sauce), but its dominance made it difficult to taste the buttery flavor of the hamachi.
Langoustine – seared langoustine, mache, wild mushroom salad, shaved foie gras, and white balsamic vinaigrette. Oh, this was soooo good. The combination of langoustine, foie gras and wild mushrooms was phenomenal. Rich, buttery, earthy, salty…all in one bite!
Sea Urchin – sea urchin risotto with toasted nori and urchin-citrus emulsion. Like my sea urchin pasta, this dish was good but tasted one-dimensional (especially since it didn’t have caviar piled on top).
Hiramasa – seared yellowtail kingfish, chestnut-bacon jam, baby brussels sprouts and rich chardonnay-chestnut veloute. Unfortunately, I don’t remember the taste of this dish. I only vaguely remember thinking the fish seemed a tad overcooked and didn’t have a strong flavor profile.
Surf and Turf – escolar and seared Kobe beef, sea bean salad and eggplant fries, Mr. Kaufman’s pesto and anchovy sauce. Not sure who Mr. Kaufman is, but his sauce wasn’t very distinctive. The Kobe beef was probably the least impressive that I’ve had at any high-end restaurant (good thing that Le Bernardin’s specialty is seafood). What I did like about this dish was the plump, meaty escolar and the light, tasty eggplant fries.
Lobster – baked lobster on bed of foie gras stuffing with brandy-red wine sauce. I had major food envy when I tasted N’s lobster entrée. It was so succulent and flavorful, I wanted more. I highly recommend getting this dish – I know I will be if/when I come back!
Yuzu – yuzu parfait, meringue, green tea biscuit and ice cream. I didn't take any photos of the others’ dessert, but had to mention this yuzu dessert because it was the best dessert of the night. It was bright, slightly sweet, and surprisingly multi-faceted. The green tea ice cream was AMAZING! I’ve had many green tea desserts before, but I’ve never had one as elegant and complex as this.

All in all, I thought Le Bernardin was great but not as extraordinary as I thought it’d be. I REALLY, REALLY wanted to be swept off my feet and fall in love this place...but that didn't happen. Believe me, I had to struggle to keep my admiration of Chef Ripert from biasing my opinion. Speaking of Ripert, I saw him as I was literally walking out of the restaurant. I didn’t know he was there that night, and am so bummed about not getting to meet him!! Argh! Oh well, maybe I’ll get a chance to next time…yes, there will be a next time.

BITE METER: Le Bernardin – 4.2 bites (out of 5)