February 06, 2010

Market by Jean Georges – Come for the Crispy Clams

I had lunch at the new Market by Jean Georges in Boston. The restaurant was much smaller than I expected since it was inside the W Hotel. The large windows filled the restaurant with natural light, but the décor lacked character. It felt a bit one-dimensional, like it was trying too hard to be modern. However, it didn’t really matter since my attention was on the great food and thoughtful service.

Cherry-Yuzu Soda – this house-made soda was terrific. I loved the flavor combination. It was sweet, but not too sugary, and refreshing with just the right amount of tartness from the yuzu.


Crispy Clams, Basil Salt, Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce – AMAZING fried clams! They were meaty, flavorful, and perfectly crispy on the outside…and oh-so-good with the frothy sweet chili sauce. This dish epitomizes Jean Georges’ style – a mix of bold flavors, always playfully contrasting sweet, spicy, savory, and sour tastes. The mossy green color from the basil salt also provided a unique and intriguing presentation.
Cod, Miso-Yuzu Broth, Shimeji Mushrooms, & Side of Wild Rice – not the most attractive plating, but a nice harmony of flavors…the delicate cod, the clean and subtle broth, and wholesomeness of the wild rice and mushrooms. This dish tasted good, and also felt nourishing and healthy.
Soy Glazed Short Ribs, Rosemary Crumbs, Apple-Jalapeno Puree – my least favorite dish. Although the combination of ingredients was interesting, the flavors didn’t really shine. There wasn’t a lot of taste in the apple-jalapeno puree, so it was like eating an ordinary short rib with apple slices…not bad, but not great either.
Passion Fruit Soufflé – recommended by our waiter, I was a little weary of this dessert because passion fruit is often too intense and tart, but he steered us in the right direction. The soufflé was light and airy, and the passion fruit sauce was bright with just enough sugar to keep it from being too tart.

I didn’t come to Market expecting it to be as mind blowing as the Jean Georges flagship restaurant in New York (nor as expensive), but I did expect it to have a certain level of quality and follow a similar approach to food, and Market did not disappoint.

BITE METER: Market by Jean Georges – 3.7 bites (out of 5.0)

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