Toro – Small Plates Packed with Big Flavors

Toro is one of my favorite restaurants in Boston. Fun, laid-back atmosphere, a menu filled with lots of tasty food, and outdoor seating on a warm, summer evening. I always look forward to Chef Ken Oringer’s scrumptious sea urchin creations (which he features in different forms at all of his restaurants)…he’s like Boston’s Uni King! Toro is Chef Oringer’s take on Spanish cuisine. My only pet peeve about this place is that they serve wine in water glasses – call me a snob, but proper stemware *does* make a difference in the taste of the wine.

Tomato and Watermelon Gazpacho – ahhhhh, so refreshing on a hot day. The gazpacho was served really cold (rather than just chilled) and effortlessly balanced the sweet and salty flavors.

Escalivada Catalana – this blend of wood-roasted eggplants, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and olive oil tasted wonderful spread over bread. It was thick, slightly sweet, and whet my appetite for the procession of small plates to come.
Uni Bocadillo – WOW! I relished in the bold flavors of this pressed uni sandwich with miso butter and pickled mustard seeds. Although the uni could have been fresher, it tasted soooooo good with the miso butter…biting through that hot, crispy bread into buttery, ocean flavors with a sharp zing from the mustard seeds. Mmmm!
Za’atar and Honey Glazed Pork Ribs – the sweet honey was a perfect complement to the Moroccan spice. The meat was a bit dry, but still fell right off the bones. The yogurt also added a cooling touch to the dish. Overall, the flavors brought a lightness to the otherwise heavy ribs.
Panza de Cerdo (crispy pork belly with sunchoke, escargot, fava beans and smoked maple crumble) – a fiesta of flavor! So many ingredients and tastes, all enhancing one another. The pork belly was cooked to perfection…meaty and fatty with a super, crispy layer of skin. The escargot was tender and smoky, adding a unique element to the dish.
Erizos en Suquet (Catalan stew of sea urchin, lobster and crab meat) – it was like a rich and thick seafood bouillabaisse. While the taste of shellfish was evident in the stew, it was so salty that the sweet flavors of the lobster and crab meat were lost. I did appreciate the stew’s creamy, unctuous undertone from the sea urchin though.
Toro is my place to eat, drink and be merry in Boston!

BITE METER: Toro – 3.5 bites (out of 5)