Asana – Style Over Substance

Asana is clad with the chic and modern décor associated with Mandarin Oriental Hotels (the one in Tokyo is spectacular!)…dark woods, cool grey tones, fine linens and tableware. However, the restaurant’s food lacked soul and depth. Maybe I’ve been spoiled by bounty of local produce in San Francisco, but I couldn’t taste the freshness of the ingredients the dishes here. They just didn’t sing.

Chilled Watermelon Soup with Maine Peekytoe Crab - light and refreshing with hints of apple, but wish it had a little more kick to it. I also would’ve liked more crab…those little bits were just a tease.

Braised Veal Cheek & Sweet Breads with Fava Beans & Shimeji Mushrooms – this appetizer had immediately caught my eye on the menu, but turned out to be ho-hum. The veal cheeks were moist and savory, but everything else was poorly executed. The sweet breads were mushy and bland (what a tragedy!), and the fava beans and mushrooms had no flavor.
Roasted Poussin with English Peas & Morels – the 28 day-old chicken was beautifully prepared, extremely tender and juicy. Unfortunately, I just can’t get over the sad state of these morels. Lacking that rich flavor of the beloved morels, these tasted like they’d been sitting around for too long and became stale…probably the only time I’ve ever been disappointed by morels (Side note: my most memorable morels experience was at Jean Georges a few years ago…to die for!)
Lamb Rack with Apricot Jam, Wheat, Chocolate-Chili Sauce – the only standout dish of the evening. The lamb was beautiful…nice charred crust while tender on inside, and I loved the sweetness of apricot jam with it. A touch more heat in the chocolate-chili sauce would have elevated the dish even further.
Cherry Parfait Glacé with Muscat Foam – a light and easy way to finish off the meal. The glacé was cross between a semifreddo and a mousse…cool, creamy, and smooth with a hint of cherry tartness.
Final verdict: Trendy hotel restaurant with an interesting menu, but lacked the substance to support it.

BITE METER: Asana – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

Wood Tavern – Already Wanting to Return

During a spontaneous visit to Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, I randomly decided to have lunch at Wood Tavern. What a wonderful surprise it turned out to be! I thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant’s scrumptious food and warm Californian bistro/bar atmosphere.

Peach & Burratta with Prosciutto di Parma – I loved the soft and luscious burratta cheese with the sweet peaches and salty prosciutto. Everything tasted so fresh, and the flavors of each component shined. The dish didn’t even need the balsamic vinegar.

“Surf N’ Turf” Sandwich (Oregon sweet shrimp, prosciutto di parma, English cucumber, garlic aioli) – the flavors were great with the interplay of sweet shrimp with cool, crisp cucumber and rich prosciutto. However, the bread was too thick and was too hard to get through, overpowering the delicate components inside. The bread had a nice crunchy texture and would have been better served as an open-faced sandwich. I was surprised by how much I liked their bright and zesty Tavern slaw (I usually detest coleslaw!)
Fresh Pappardelle with Okra, Sweet Corn, Zucchini – absolutely delightful! The pasta was PERFECTION. Everything was beautifully cooked. The vegetables tasted fresh and light, while the sauce also felt hearty. I couldn’t get enough of this dish.
Wood Tavern is a fantastic neighborhood restaurant, and I’ll definitely be back even though it’s not my neighborhood. Heck, I was already talking about what I wanted to eat next time before I even left the restaurant! Now that’s a sign of a quality place with an enticing menu.

BITE METER: Wood Tavern – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

flour+water – Good but Overrated

I’ve heard a lot of hype about flour+water, but it took me a while to finally eat here…reservations are tough (only half the tables can be reserved) and there’s always a crowd of people waiting outside for a table. There was also a lot of press about Steve Jobs trying to get a table here but leaving because he’d have to wait. Despite all of hullabaloo, I found my dinner at flour+water to be good but overrated.

Pomodoro Pizza (heirloom tomatoes, caciocavallo, wild arugula) – the flavors were great with the smoky caciocavallo (aged mozzarella) and the sweet, juicy tomatoes, but the consistency was wrong. I’m very particular about thin crust pizzas being crispy, and this whole pizza was soggy except for the outer crust. A bummer since I had been most excited about trying the pizza here.
Chitarra with saffron braised squid, halibut, peppers & tomatoes – a failure. The pasta was overcooked and the seafood was so bland. (Note: I also tried my husband’s spaghetti alla puttanesca with sardines, and the flavors and textures of that dish were spot-on.)
Chocolate budino with espresso-caramel cream & sea salt – finally, a spectacular dish. The budino was like a chocolate pot de crème only much thicker. Perfect combination of sweet, salty, coffee, and creamy.
Because the prices were so reasonable, I would probably give this restaurant another shot…but definitely not without reservations. With such a range of hits and misses, it’s not worth waiting for.

BITE METER: flour+water – 2.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Benu – Transforming Asian Concepts into Pure Luxury

I first experienced Chef Corey Lee’s culinary talents while he was working under the helm of Thomas Keller at French Laundry. At the ripe age of 28, he became French Laundry’s chef de cuisine and deemed a wunderkind of the restaurant world. So ever since I heard Lee was branching out to create his own restaurant, I’ve been anxiously awaiting the opening of Benu.

And I must say that the food at Benu totally captured my heart. Chef Lee took many Asian comfort foods and elevated them to a completely different level. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of eating at a ‘fine dining’ restaurant while also being embraced by the comforts and memories of home and my family with his food. The chef’s tasting menu showcased a multitude of flavors, textures, and techniques…

1000 Year Old Quail Egg – a remake of the classic Chinese preserved duck egg, Chef Lee refined it by using quail egg instead and adding slices of ginger and green onion. To me, the yolk is the best part of preserved eggs, so the small quail egg didn’t have enough of that pungent, creamy yolk to counter the bland, gelatinous white exterior.
Lonsdale – fun and delicate. The large green bubble burst in my mouth, filling it with a cool and slightly sweet liquid of green apple. A bit of gin balanced the sweetness, and basil gave it an herbal finish. This reminded me of the ‘mojito bubble’ that I had at minibar…I’m loving this trend of cocktails in a bite!
Sea Urchin & Almond Tofu, Caviar, Sparkling Grape – the almond tofu was a bit too thick, but its milky, nuttiness accentuated the sweetness of the creamy sea urchin inside. All nicely balanced with the salty pearls of caviar and the acidity of the sparkling grape foam.
Spanish Mackerel, Pain de Mie – incredible. I love, love, LOVED this dish! The fish was cooked between two thin slices of crispy bread, but it looked like one seamless piece (almost like pork belly). I was swooning over the moist, meaty fish with its salty, garlicky crust…perfectly balanced by the dehydrated slivers of lemon. The flavors and textures were similar to fried fish, but so much more sophisticated. I’m already planning on coming back for this dish on the a la carte menu...it’s *that* good!
Eel, Feuille de Brick, Crème Fraiche (right) – a playful dish with a “cigar” of wild Japanese eel wrapped in paper thin layers of crispy feuille de brick (even thinner than phyllo dough). The eel tasted similar to a white fish but more savory, and was exquisitely paired with a dip made of crème fraiche and lime salt.
Caramelized Anchovy, Peanut, Lilly Bulb (left) – not a lot of substance, but interesting experience of taste and textures…jelly cubes with a subtle anchovy flavor, tiny salted fish, crispy peanuts, and cool, fresh petals of lily bulb.
Mountain Yam and Shrimp Soufflé (back) – Like a moist fluffy cake, but more starchy and with a subtle shrimp flavor…reminded me of the Japanese tamago.
Monkfish Liver Torchon, Brioche – one of my absolute favorites! This was very similar in style and technique to the foie gras torchon I had at French Laundry, although the use of monkfish liver (instead of duck liver) made it much lighter with soft sweet undertones. Creamy, luscious liver spread over a warm, buttery brioche…sexy, elegant, and rich all at once. I even licked my knife to make sure I got every last bit!
“Shark’s Fin” Soup, Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Custard – such genius! The custom-made bowl held a thin layer of silky, black truffle custard at the bottom, which was covered by a warm dashi (fish broth), faux strands of “shark fin” made of gelatin, and sweet, succulent pieces of crab…sooooo sumptuous and delicious! I would have never thought of truffles with Asian food, especially something as traditional as shark fin soup, but I was floored by how good this dish was. The black truffle added a whole new dimension to the soup.
Pumpkin Porridge, Lobster, Black Truffle – again, Chef Lee demonstrates his creativity with Asian cuisine by taking something as humble as rice porridge and turning it into something so luxurious. I loved the sweetness of the pumpkin and lobster against the distinct earthiness of the truffles. I also appreciated having warm, comforting courses (soup and porridge) in the tasting menu – it goes down so easily and is especially soothing after drinking lots of wine.
Eight Treasure Duck – like a duck sausage filled with a bunch of indistinguishable components. I mainly tasted the salty duck with a bit of honey-like sweetness. Not bad, not great.
Beef Rib Cap, Matsutake Mushroom – most disappointing dish of the evening. After being pampered by such lavish dishes, I was expecting melt-in-your mouth beef. Instead, this was dry and chewy. Our waitress explained that the firm consistency was normal for this particular cut – my suggestion would be to serve a different cut. (Note: she did offer to get me something else when she noticed I hardly touched my beef, but I declined since I was getting full. At least the matsutake mushrooms were prepared well.)
Huckleberry Sorbet, Yogurt, Lemon Curd, Vanilla Sponge – the huckleberry was tart and vibrant, tasted like a mix of strawberry and blueberry. Fruity and refreshing on my palate.
Chestnut Custard, Cranberry, Mace Ice Cream – the chestnut and mace (similar to nutmeg) flavors reminded me of the holidays and made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. A great dessert for the fall season.
Petit Fours – delectable chocolates cleverly encased inside a sleek wooden cube
There were a couple of misses on the tasting menu, but the high points more than made up for them. Next time, I’m going to order off Benu’s a la carte menu since it also featured some of my favorites from the tasting menu (I especially loved the seafood dishes). I also appreciated the thought and creativity that went into the design of the ceramics and plates.

The only thing I didn’t particularly care for about the restaurant was its bland interior. It had a cold, unfinished feel with the high ceilings and beams, sharp angles, and the almost all white décor. The service also lacked warmth, but was very polite and attentive. With a little more tweaking and finesse, Benu could be something magnificent. The restaurant has a lot of potential, and I look forward to the continued growth of Chef Lee’s career.

BITE METER: Benu – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Gussie’s Chicken & Waffles – Got Half of it Right

My husband’s favorite food is fried chicken, so he loves that the ‘chicken and waffles’ concept allows him to eat it for breakfast…nothing like some good ol’ fried chicken to get your morning started! After the quality of Little Skillet’s waffles went downhill, he wanted to give Gussie’s Chicken & Waffles a try…

Unfortunately, their waffles weren’t very good either. They were soft and limp, like they had been sitting out for a while. (B got the sweet potato waffles, which were a lot better). However, the fried chicken was excellent - delicious crisp skin and nice, salty flavor. Finger lickin’ good!
I have a soft spot for biscuits and gravy, so we also got an order to share. The gravy was tasty with bits of ham, but the biscuits were too doughy.
Overall, the restaurant was ok, but not good enough for me to want to come back.

BITE METER: Gussie’s Chicken & Waffles– 2.5 bites (out of 5.0)

85C – Happiness Baked

Simply put, the baked goods at 85C are to die for! Sigh, I can’t stop thinking about their milk pudding roll…moist and buttery on the outside, filled with creamy, milk custard on the inside. Pure happiness in a roll…the *BEST* Asian pastry I’ve ever eaten. (Make sure to eat it right away while it’s still fluffy)
85C originated in Taiwan. The Irvine location is their first in the U.S. and already has a cult following. This is the first time I’ve seen a line outside an Asian bakery. Fortunately, the line moved pretty quickly, and they limited the number of people inside so it wasn’t a crowded madhouse.
Since there’s such a high demand, 85C continuously bakes their items throughout the day (instead of just in the morning like most places), so everything is literally fresh out of the oven. Even so, they had already run out of taro buns (one of my faves) and the next batch wouldn’t be ready for another 2 hours. Darn, I really wanted to try their version…I’m sure it would’ve been heartbreakingly good. Regardless, there was still a large selection of breads, buns, and pastries…and like everyone else, we piled our trays high with goodies. Had I known better, I would’ve gotten more milk pudding buns! Their boroh (pineapple) roll was also especially scrumptious. I also ordered the sea salt coffee…interesting but not as exceptional as the pastries.
My only complaint is that 85C doesn’t have a location in San Francisco. Please expand up here soon!

BITE METER: 85C – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

Shin Sen Gumi – Customize Your Ramen

After a weekend of gluttony, we decided to “cleanse” ourselves with a warm bowl of ramen at Shin Sen Gumi. What’s unique about this restaurant is you can choose the level of richness/oiliness you want for your broth, the firmness of your noodles, and the array of toppings for your ramen.

The tonkotsu (pork bone) broth was great. I ordered the ‘light oil’ version, but the broth still maintained a rich (albeit lighter), almost creamy pork flavor. The slices of cha-su Berkshire pork were tender, and I loved the crunchy, sweet bamboo and the bite from the pickled ginger…a wonderful medley of flavors and textures. My only gripe about the ramen was the noodles. The restaurant serves Hakata-style ramen, which I’ve had before in Tokyo so I knew to expect thinner noodles. But what bothered me was these noodles tasted more like starchy rice noodles than denser flour noodles. Even the ‘medium’ consistency noodles were too soft, so I’d recommend getting ‘hard’ noodles.

Chicken rice balls came with my meal since I ordered one of the lunch combos. It was really unappetizing – bland and mushy with dry chicken chunks. Instead of using sticky rice, they used regular rice and made it soggy so the rice ball would stick together. Not good.
To sum it up, the ramen was delicious, but make sure you order the ‘hard’ noodles. And stay away from the chicken rice balls!

BITE METER: Shin Sen Gumi – 3.7 bites (out of 5)

Urasawa – An Expensive Sushi Extravaganza

I’ve been debating on whether to dine at Masa for years. At a minimum of $500 per person, its tasting menu is by far the most expensive in the U.S (heck, than most of the world). Is it worth paying *that* much money when I’ve already had some of the best sushi in Japan? Could the fish possibly be better than what the top restaurants in Tokyo get? So when I read rave reviews about Urasawa and found out that it was Chef Masa Takayama’s restaurant before he left to open Masa in New York and was now being run by his former sous-chef/protégé, AND the tasting menu was “only” $200 per person (it’s all relative, right?), I put Urasawa on my mental list of restaurants to dine at.

Unfortunately, that was a few years ago and Urasawa’s set menu has now almost doubled to $350 per person (that doesn’t include drinks or gratuity). But since I was finally going to be down in SoCal and my friends are also sushi fanatics, we decided to take the plunge and made reservations at Urasawa.

The restaurant is located in Beverly Hills on the second floor of a nondescript building on Rodeo Drive. Despite the ritzy address, I was pleased to find a simple and intimate space with just 9 seats along a beautifully sanded wood sushi bar.

The food was great overall, but what really made the restaurant stand out was the happy and friendly demeanor of Chef Hiro Urasawa . At most established sushi restaurants, the head chef is usually quite formal and stern. However, Hiro-san warmly introduced himself when we sat down and talked with us throughout our meal…all while never losing focus on the fish and making sure his staff attended to even the smallest details. The service was top notch. Not only did Hiro-san provide us with informative details of each course, he also tolerated my picture taking (not allowed in most high-end sushi places), calling me the “sushi paparazzi”. He did tell us that the nigiri must be eaten within 10 seconds of him making it, so I tried to quickly snap a shot or two (all in the name of good blogging!) before enjoying the sushi at its optimum…

[Note: There were 31 different presentations (yes, 31!) so I will keep my descriptions brief]

Ankimo wrapped Toro and Caviar – WOW, what a way to start the meal! Exquisitely plated and masterfully executed. The flavors of the toro (fatty tuna) and ankimo (monkfish liver) were rich and sumptuous, while the caviar and the daikon kept things bright and added interesting textures.
Ikura and Edamame Tofu – I’ve never had anything like this before. The ikura (salmon roe) burst with such a gentle sweetness. The saltiness was so subtle that I knew the roe was fresh and hadn’t been preserved in salt water for very long. The silky edamame tofu had a slight nutty taste and provided a perfect contrast.
Baby Japanese Eggplant - first time I’ve eaten raw eggplant. It was soft and slightly spongy, while dipping it in soy sauce accentuated its sweetness. Garden fresh taste even though it was flown in all the way from Osaka.
Sashimi (Toro, Kanpachi, Uni) – Amazing, one of my favorite courses. The sashimi was served in a beautiful hand-carved ice bowl by Hiro-san. The kanpachi was clean yet had a slight butteriness. And of course, the toro was melt-in-your-mouth heaven. But what really made my knees go weak was the uni (sea urchin) from Santa Barbara. It was absolutely sublime and some of the best I’ve had.
Kobe Beef Tartar and Caviar – two very luxurious ingredients, but I actually didn’t love this dish. The beef had similar savory-sweet flavors found in Chinese beef jerky, but it was too salty and overpowered the delicate caviar.
Shark Fin Soup – a soulful and elegant soup. The shark fin was so soft and tender, like a shitake mushroom only much more delicate. The only other time I’ve had shark fin soup this incredible was at Hiiragiya in Kyoto.
Tempura Anago – a Japanese version of the battered, fried fish. Crispy on the outside, then warm and meaty anago (sea eel) on the inside. The grated shiso leaf added an nice herbaceous element to the tempura.
Kobe Beef, Scallop, Prawn on Miso Paste – served over a small hot grill, the sweet and unctuous miso paste perfectly complemented each of the items, especially the oh-so-tender Kobe beef.
Shabu Shabu with King Eel, Red Snapper, Foie Gras, and Kombu Kelp - each item was individually placed in the boiling broth by our waiters to cook for just a few seconds. The king eel was kind of chewy with no distinguishable taste. Foie gras shabu shabu was a new concept for me, and I appreciated how the simple poaching kept the foie gras light and creamy. My favorite part of this course was actually drinking the broth afterwards. I was surprised that it was only a simple seaweed broth. But all the various items that had been cooked in it really developed the broth's depth and flavor.
Kama Toro (fatty tuna) – velvety and rich. This cut came from the collar of the tuna (unlike most toro which comes from the belly)
Seared Kama Toro (fatty tuna) – the quick sear further integrated the marbleized fat into the meat and made for a heavenly morsel
Katsuo (skipjack) – firm with a clean, subdued flavor
Kanpachi (amberjack) – liked it better in the sashimi, this cut was more chewy
Tai (red snapper) – although this had sudachi zest on top, it was too similar to the 2 other firm white fishes that were just served, none of which have a lot of flavor
Maguro (blue fin tuna) – like a beautiful red satin
Seki Aji (horse mackerel) – Hiro-san said this was the “number one mackerel from Japan”, but it didn’t particularly stand out from good aji I’ve had at other places
Ika (squid) – firm with a creamy finish, grated sudachi added flavor
Uni (sea urchin) – sweet, creamy, absolutely incredible! The most outstanding of piece of nigiri served. I wish I could have taken one of those containers of uni home with me!
ChuToro (medium fatty tuna) – rich and buttery goodness
Kohada (gizzard shad) – not as fishy as saba, but still has the oiliness and distinct flavor of silver fish
Baby Shrimp – kind of bland, needed some acidity to brighten it up. I prefer the version from Sushi Sam’s Edomata (only other place that I’ve had this).
Sanma (mackerel pike) – a traditional preparation that’s over 300 years old. The fish is "grilled" with hot metal rods pressed against the top, creating huge puffs of smoke. The chopped shiso balanced the saltiness and oiliness of the fish.
Shitake Mushroom – simple yet distinct woody and earthy flavors. The mushroom had been slowly grilled for the past hour and had a lovely tenderness.
Negitoro Maki (fatty tuna roll) - the toro was complemented by green onions and pickled radish
Awabi (abalone) – firm and slightly crunchy, but the sudachi tasted strange with it. Honestly, I usually find abalone flavorless in sushi and this was no different (only exception was the awabi at Sushi Mizutani, the best sushi restaurant I've been to date)
Amaebi (sweet shrimp) - this is as fresh as it gets! We watched Hiro-san take the large shrimp apart while it was still alive and moving. It didn't tast as sweet as I expected and had a slight mineral-like taste. Because it was so fresh, it was firmer than other amaebi I've had, but there was still a mushy consistency that I’m not fond of.
Aji No Tataki (minced Spanish mackerel) – interesting preparation, but I was so overloaded with mackerel (and sushi) at this point that it was difficult to appreciate this
Anago (sea eel) – I was relieved to have something bold and different to wake up my taste buds. The anago was lean, meaty, and full of flavor from the sweet kabayaki sauce
Tamago (egg cake) – fluffy and light with the distinct taste of egg, but also with a hint of sweetness. It is said that quality of the tamago is indicative of how good a sushi chef is..and Hiro-san's was especially delicious!
Asian Pear Gelée – great palate cleanser. Refreshing and tart.
White Sesame Ice Cream with Matcha Green Tea – smooth and creamy with the nutty sesame flavor. Hiro-san made the matcha with such care and precision, as if it had been a Japanese tea ceremony. I enjoyed the bitter contrast of the tea with the sweet dessert.
Three and a half hours later, I was beyond full. I never thought these words would ever come out of my mouth, but there *is* such a thing as too much sushi! The fish presented in the nigiri part of the meal became monotonous after a while. I would have enjoyed it more if Hiro-san had left some of the similar items out (i.e. didn’t need so many white fishes and mackerels) and kept the nigiri more distinct and focused. I also noticed that Hiro-san served nigiri to other diners in a different order, which I thought was strange. The order is important in multi-course meals, building up in richness and flavors…but Hiro-san’s was all over the place. Perhaps, my palate was overwhelmed too early in the meal with heavy items and that’s why it was hard for me to enjoy the more subtle flavors and differences in the fish later on.

Don’t get me wrong though, I REALLY enjoyed my dinner at Urasawa (especially the first half of the meal), but I expected a lot more given the price. I’ve also had similar or better sushi experiences elsewhere for less, so I probably wouldn’t come back to Urasawa unless they lower the prices. Unfortunately, Hiro-san mentioned wanting to raise prices again due to the strength of Japanese yen…so if you want to eat at Urasawa, get your butt here fast before the price goes up again!

BITE METER: Urasawa – 4.2 bites (out of 5)