Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.

Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Benu – Transforming Asian Concepts into Pure Luxury

I first experienced Chef Corey Lee’s culinary talents while he was working under the helm of Thomas Keller at French Laundry. At the ripe age of 28, he became French Laundry’s chef de cuisine and deemed a wunderkind of the restaurant world. So ever since I heard Lee was branching out to create his own restaurant, I’ve been anxiously awaiting the opening of Benu.

And I must say that the food at Benu totally captured my heart. Chef Lee took many Asian comfort foods and elevated them to a completely different level. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of eating at a ‘fine dining’ restaurant while also being embraced by the comforts and memories of home and my family with his food. The chef’s tasting menu showcased a multitude of flavors, textures, and techniques…

1000 Year Old Quail Egg – a remake of the classic Chinese preserved duck egg, Chef Lee refined it by using quail egg instead and adding slices of ginger and green onion. To me, the yolk is the best part of preserved eggs, so the small quail egg didn’t have enough of that pungent, creamy yolk to counter the bland, gelatinous white exterior.
Lonsdale – fun and delicate. The large green bubble burst in my mouth, filling it with a cool and slightly sweet liquid of green apple. A bit of gin balanced the sweetness, and basil gave it an herbal finish. This reminded me of the ‘mojito bubble’ that I had at minibar…I’m loving this trend of cocktails in a bite!
Sea Urchin & Almond Tofu, Caviar, Sparkling Grape – the almond tofu was a bit too thick, but its milky, nuttiness accentuated the sweetness of the creamy sea urchin inside. All nicely balanced with the salty pearls of caviar and the acidity of the sparkling grape foam.
Spanish Mackerel, Pain de Mie – incredible. I love, love, LOVED this dish! The fish was cooked between two thin slices of crispy bread, but it looked like one seamless piece (almost like pork belly). I was swooning over the moist, meaty fish with its salty, garlicky crust…perfectly balanced by the dehydrated slivers of lemon. The flavors and textures were similar to fried fish, but so much more sophisticated. I’m already planning on coming back for this dish on the a la carte menu...it’s *that* good!
Eel, Feuille de Brick, Crème Fraiche (right) – a playful dish with a “cigar” of wild Japanese eel wrapped in paper thin layers of crispy feuille de brick (even thinner than phyllo dough). The eel tasted similar to a white fish but more savory, and was exquisitely paired with a dip made of crème fraiche and lime salt.
Caramelized Anchovy, Peanut, Lilly Bulb (left) – not a lot of substance, but interesting experience of taste and textures…jelly cubes with a subtle anchovy flavor, tiny salted fish, crispy peanuts, and cool, fresh petals of lily bulb.
Mountain Yam and Shrimp Soufflé (back) – Like a moist fluffy cake, but more starchy and with a subtle shrimp flavor…reminded me of the Japanese tamago.
Monkfish Liver Torchon, Brioche – one of my absolute favorites! This was very similar in style and technique to the foie gras torchon I had at French Laundry, although the use of monkfish liver (instead of duck liver) made it much lighter with soft sweet undertones. Creamy, luscious liver spread over a warm, buttery brioche…sexy, elegant, and rich all at once. I even licked my knife to make sure I got every last bit!
“Shark’s Fin” Soup, Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Custard – such genius! The custom-made bowl held a thin layer of silky, black truffle custard at the bottom, which was covered by a warm dashi (fish broth), faux strands of “shark fin” made of gelatin, and sweet, succulent pieces of crab…sooooo sumptuous and delicious! I would have never thought of truffles with Asian food, especially something as traditional as shark fin soup, but I was floored by how good this dish was. The black truffle added a whole new dimension to the soup.
Pumpkin Porridge, Lobster, Black Truffle – again, Chef Lee demonstrates his creativity with Asian cuisine by taking something as humble as rice porridge and turning it into something so luxurious. I loved the sweetness of the pumpkin and lobster against the distinct earthiness of the truffles. I also appreciated having warm, comforting courses (soup and porridge) in the tasting menu – it goes down so easily and is especially soothing after drinking lots of wine.
Eight Treasure Duck – like a duck sausage filled with a bunch of indistinguishable components. I mainly tasted the salty duck with a bit of honey-like sweetness. Not bad, not great.
Beef Rib Cap, Matsutake Mushroom – most disappointing dish of the evening. After being pampered by such lavish dishes, I was expecting melt-in-your mouth beef. Instead, this was dry and chewy. Our waitress explained that the firm consistency was normal for this particular cut – my suggestion would be to serve a different cut. (Note: she did offer to get me something else when she noticed I hardly touched my beef, but I declined since I was getting full. At least the matsutake mushrooms were prepared well.)
Huckleberry Sorbet, Yogurt, Lemon Curd, Vanilla Sponge – the huckleberry was tart and vibrant, tasted like a mix of strawberry and blueberry. Fruity and refreshing on my palate.
Chestnut Custard, Cranberry, Mace Ice Cream – the chestnut and mace (similar to nutmeg) flavors reminded me of the holidays and made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. A great dessert for the fall season.
Petit Fours – delectable chocolates cleverly encased inside a sleek wooden cube
There were a couple of misses on the tasting menu, but the high points more than made up for them. Next time, I’m going to order off Benu’s a la carte menu since it also featured some of my favorites from the tasting menu (I especially loved the seafood dishes). I also appreciated the thought and creativity that went into the design of the ceramics and plates.

The only thing I didn’t particularly care for about the restaurant was its bland interior. It had a cold, unfinished feel with the high ceilings and beams, sharp angles, and the almost all white décor. The service also lacked warmth, but was very polite and attentive. With a little more tweaking and finesse, Benu could be something magnificent. The restaurant has a lot of potential, and I look forward to the continued growth of Chef Lee’s career.

BITE METER: Benu – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Alinea - Beyond Words

Alinea has recently been hailed as the Best Restaurant in the U.S. (and #7 in the World). With such status, I had extremely high expectations and quite honestly, was a bit worried that I’d expect too much and be let down. Instead, I was *completely* blown away by my experience at Alinea and would have to whole heartedly agree that it’s the best restaurant I’ve been to in the U.S. (sorry, French Laundry). What’s even more remarkable is that Alinea has only been around for 5 years, during part of which Chef Grant Achatz had battled tongue cancer.

Words can not adequately describe the phenomenal meal I had at Alinea. It is a true experience in all forms – the surprise of hidden sliding doors, interacting with the uniquely stunning presentations of each dish, anticipating what the next extraordinary course would bring, and most importantly, having my taste buds delighted and pushed to the limit with innovative, incredible food. You really do just have to experience it for yourself.

The food at Alinea is progressive, ambitious, artistic, and totally original. It was creative without being gimmicky. Chef Achatz and his team take modern American cuisine to a whole new level with their inventive genius. They make fun and exciting food, while still putting care into every single little detail.

The service was impeccable. Every need was anticipated before we had to ask for anything. The staff was professional, courteous, and very knowledgeable (even knew the history of the stemware!) I learned so much about the food and wine. [Btw, I highly recommend the reserve wine pairing. The wine beautifully complemented the food – an impressive feat with ~20 courses!]

The only thing I did not love about my experience at Alinea was the ambience. The dining room (there are 3) is a small, rectangular room with modern, minimalist décor in cool grey, beige, and black tones. It felt impersonal and lacked warmth. It’s a good thing that the food was so mesmerizing; else it’d be awkward to be in such a sparse room where you are so acutely aware of your neighbors. But maybe that was intentional, and they want you to just focus on the food…

They hung these pretty sheets of rice paper at the edge of the table, piquing my curiosity. Are these flags surrendering us to the food? :-9
Trio of Edible Cocktails:
LEMON – a frozen and chewy pisco sour. Like a firm marshmallow with alcohol.
CUCUMBER - cool and refreshing. A pool of gin and rose water inside a cucumber cube with mint.
CHERRY – their “improved” version of a Manhattan in the form of a maraschino cherry. This one packed a punch and warmed my throat going down. Nice.
ENGLISH PEA – unlike anything I’ve ever eaten before! Peas were mixed with frozen burrata cheese and dusted with Iberico ham powder. It was ice cold yet creamy, salty, sweet, and meaty all at once. The sherry “bubbles” and melon would also transform each bite by accentuating different flavors.
Trio of Shrimp on a Stick, inspired by different countries in Asia:
FRIED SHRIMP (China) – shrimp tempura with fermented black bean on cinnamon stick, dusted with Chinese five spice powder. Light, crispy, and packed with flavor. So much better than corn dogs!
YUBA (Japan) – sesame shrimp wrapped over a fried yuba stick in a miso mayo sauce. I’ve never had yuba fried and really enjoyed it, but found the shrimp to be too salty.
CHAO TOM (Vietnam) – believe it or not, food you’re encouraged to spit out! The sugar cane was infused with shrimp paste and mint. After chewing on it to extract the flavors, you spit it out into a small paper napkin. The flavors were surprisingly delicate, like a lightly sweet shrimp broth. It was a nice way to round out the course.

TOMATOES – this dish transported me to another place. I was initially confused and intrigued when they put pillows on top of the table. Then I started to smell the fresh, grassy aroma emitted by the pillows. Once the plate of heirloom tomatoes was set on the pillows, more of the aroma was emitted as the pillows deflated…it was like eating ripe tomatoes straight from the garden! The tomatoes were paired with different elements in powdered form (fried bread crumbs, frozen cheeses, pine nuts, bell pepper, onion, olive oil, balsamic vinegar), and it was fun to mix and match. I especially liked the mozzarella, in powdered and fried form. If summer had a taste, this would be it.
DISTILLATION of Thai flavors – it looked like water but was actually fish sauce, lemon grass, and chilies distilled down to their purest form. I had expected intense flavors when I heard fish sauce, but the flavors were remarkably clean and smooth.
PORK BELLY– the mystery is solved…make your own spring roll with the rice paper. This pork belly was ABSOLUTELY ORGASMIC! It had been slowly simmered in coconut milk and just melted in my mouth. I wanted more! A beautiful and colorful display of the toppings for the spring roll (sea salt, cucumber, fried garlic, curried mango, lime, baby coconut, red onion, chili paste, cashews, marigold and leaves, basil seed and lime sauce). I can only imaging how much patience it took to prepare each of those tiny pieces with such precision.
Trio of King Crab – this unique bowl/structure held 3 different crab courses
1) CRAB MOUSSE – one of my favorite courses. The velvety and sweet crab mousse was in perfect harmony with the chilled and herbaceous chervil gelée, Unbelievably good.
2) KING CRAB – crab meat topped with bell pepper, and fried avocado crusted with crushed marcona almonds and topped plum slices. Pretty to look at but the least interesting of the trio.
3) CRAB GRATIN – I loved the combination of the crab with the cipollini onions, fennel, and cream. It was warm, savory, and decadent, while still allowing the sweetness of the crab to shine through.
HOT POTATO – great things really do come in small packages. The metal pick slides down to drop a piece of butter, hot potato, and black truffle into the tiny wax bowl filled with cold potato soup. Let me say that again – potatoes, butter, and truffles. This is my kind of comfort food! This was so delicious, it took all my restraint to keep myself from licking the bowl clean.
LAMB – this dish pays homage to Elysian Fields Farm, where the lamb comes from. Paper thin slices of the most incredibly tender lamb were skewered on a sprig of rosemary, placed over a pool of creamed corn, and topped with crispy strands of fried green onion “grass”. The combination of flavors and textures was magnificent. I especially loved the fried cubes of breaded lamb fat (yes, I’m a fried fat glutton!) which had a silky and meaty taste similar to sweetbreads.
BLACK TRUFFLE – this would be the love child of a Chinese soup dumpling and an Italian truffle ravioli. An explosion of black truffle broth filled my mouth as I bit into the disc of pasta. Mmm!
TOURNEDO à la persane – a throwback to the classics, by using a 100 year-old recipe from Le Guide Culinaire. The Australian Wagyu beef that was so tender that I could cut it with a butter knife. It was served over an Anaheim pepper stuffed with jasmine rice, a cherry tomato, a fried banana slice, and a Chateaubriand sauce. The dish was good, but after being wowed all night by Chef Achatz’ creative genius, I would have preferred seeing how he would have reinvented the dish.
BACON – to help transition to desserts, this small strip of crisp bacon was drizzled with butterscotch, “ribbons” of dehydrated granny smith apple, and thyme. As interesting to look at as it was to eat.
LEMON SODA – a dash of powdered lemon soda wrapped in edible clear paper. A great palate cleanser. (I ate this before taking a picture. Oops)

TRANSPARENCY – a more elegant version of a raspberry fruit roll-up.
BUBBLE GUM - a glass straw filled with long pepper, hibiscus gel, crème fraîche, and bubble gum tapioca pearls…all consumed with one big suck. Such a fun course! Brought me back to childhood.
EARL GREY – I was ready to dislike this dessert because I detest early grey tea, but this was surprisingly my favorite dessert of the evening. It was a moist and crumbly early grey cake served with pine nut custard, lemon curd, and rose gelée. The flavors were so well balanced – buttery, sweet, tart, and with just a hint of bitterness from the earl grey. The caramelized white chocolate noodle also added a playful yet tasty touch.
CHOCOLATE – The ultimate demonstration of fantasy and wonder at Alinea. A silicon tablecloth and several bowls and plates filled with mysterious items were placed on our table for the final dessert course. Then Chef Dave Beran (the Chef de Cuisine) comes out to greet us for a tableside presentation, where he pours molten chocolate into two glass cylinders and starts covering our table with chewy coconut balls, young coconut meringue, coconut milk, dark chocolate and menthol crumbs, hyssop leaves, and menthol crisps. Then he breaks a block of nitrogen-frozen chocolate mousse over the table and removes the glass cylinders to create a volcanic-looking chocolate wonderland. It was interesting to experience chocolate, coconut, and menthol in so many different tastes, temperatures, and textures. A tableside presentation like no other!
B and I were fortunate enough to get a quick tour of the kitchen. There are about 23 chefs/cooks in the kitchen for only 65 diners – that’s over 1 cook for every 3 diners! With so many people in the kitchen, it was impressively calm, quiet, and composed.
After our 4 hour meal, I felt inspired and completely enchanted. Alinea made me fall in love with food all over again. We stayed up that night talking about our experience for hours afterwards. I’ve had many great meals, but few have left me feeling so awestruck. The $185 tasting menu is pricey, but still a “bargain” considering the number of elaborate and well-executed courses...a small price to pay for one of the best meals of my life.

BITE METER: Alinea – 4.9 bites (out of 5)

Toqué! – Fine Dining With a Relaxed Elegance

After arriving in Montreal, B and I quickly got dressed for dinner at Toqué. This was my first time to Montreal, so it was a treat to dine at one of the city’s top restaurants as an introduction to its food scene.

For some reason, I had pictured a formal and reserved French restaurant, but Toqué was quite the opposite. The décor was contemporary and had an open feel with high ceilings and lots of light filling the dining room. The staff was youthful and friendly. The restaurant’s vibe was one of relaxed elegance. And the same can be said about the food. It was sophisticated and modern French cuisine, but with more restraint and a lighter touch.

Amuse Bouche – chilled tomato soup with herb foam

Princess Scallops marinated with rhubarb water, radish, strawberries, wasabi mousse – colorful presentation. The rhubarb water enhanced the sweetness of scallops while also making it refreshing. However, if eaten with more than one piece of strawberry, the taste of the scallop was lost.
Steamed Razor Clam, coriander, escarole, ginger, spicy soy vinaigrette – the clam was steamed to perfection and had the most amazing texture – soft and chewy without being rubbery. The clam’s delicate sweetness was balanced perfectly by the restrained use of spicy and savory Asian flavors.
Foie Gras, green apple essence, potato confit, asparagus, peas, turnips – WOW, I never knew foie gras could taste like spring! The foie was amazingly light and elegant with just a hint of sweetness (as opposed to the usual additions of strong sweet or salty ingredients with foie gras). I was told that Chef Laprise doesn’t season the foie with anything to keep it super plump and luscious. Beautiful dish!
Ribeye Carpaccio, white asparagus, popcorn powder, shitake mushrooms, miso, wasabi infused oil - the BEST CARPACCIO to have ever graced my lips! I don’t even know where to start – there was so much complexity and layers of flavor in this carpaccio. I especially loved the earthy richness of shitake mushrooms with the beef and that hit of flavor from the miso. I also appreciated the cleansing bites of herb provided by the chopped scallions. The portion size was perfect for this robust dish.
Squab, turnips, heirloom carrot, pearl onion - it was bold move to include the squab’s clawed foot in the dish and definitely made for a striking presentation. The leg was awesome with that lovely rich taste of dark meat, while the other parts of the squab were super moist and tender from being sous vide.
Hercules Cheese, mushrooms, asparagus, fried shallots, wildflower honey – much more fun than your ordinary cheese plate. I was impressed by the paper thin slice of cheese given how large the cheese wedge was. Lovely combination of flavors and textures – velvety cheese, juicy mushrooms, sweet honey, salty and crunchy fried shallots.
Rhubarb Sorbet, Meringue on Strawberry & Maple Foam – the meringue was light and sweet, but the rhubarb sorbet was too tart for my taste.
Overall, I was impressed by my dinner at Toqué. It was evident how much care and technique went into each course, and I could taste the freshness of the seasonal ingredients. The food was relatively light yet had so complexity. Each bite brought in different elements of the dish, continually building on the sophisticated flavors…and kept my taste buds intrigued. The ~$100/person price for the meticulously prepared 7 course Chef’s Tasting Menu also kept my wallet happy. I have yet to find this caliber of food for that price in the U.S.

BITE METER: Toqué! – 4.2 bites (out of 5)

Fleur de Lys – A Special Place in the Heart of San Francisco

Walking into Fleur de Lys is like being transported into somewhere far, far away. It’s sexy and romantic, people speak in hushed tones, and there’s plush crimson draping everywhere…like being inside a luxurious Moroccan tent. The dining room is like no other place in San Francisco, or anywhere else I’ve been. B and I were dining with some close friends, so we appreciated the great corner table – it added to the intimacy of the restaurant.

The service was excellent. Our waiter knew every obscure detail about the wine and food and gave us fantastic descriptions as we fired away questions about the various menu items. In addition, the entire staff was so welcoming and pleasant. Fleur de Lys is THE FRIENDLIEST FRENCH RESTAURANT I’ve been to…still puts a smile on my face. :-)

In regards to the food, it was good but some of the dishes relied a little too much on “luxury ingredients” to make an impression. Almost everything on the menu had foie gras in it. Being a foie-fanatic, that’s almost always a good thing, but the foie gras was unnecessary in some of these already rich dishes and just weighed them down. I was actually more impressed by Chef Hubert Keller’s more innovative interpretations on French cuisine than his preparation of the classics.

Amuse bouche – chilled asparagus soup and cherry tomato “cocktail” and cauliflower salad

Symphony of choucroute fondant (watermelon, avocado with caviar), sesame beef tartare, foie gras and smoked duck “burger”, golden panisse fries, red and golden beet salad – so many things going on in this appetizer, but all of it was beautifully executed. Very creative with so many different tastes and textures. I especially enjoyed the combination of watermelon, avocado, and caviar – sweet, salty, and refreshing!
Pan seared artisan foie gras with rhubarb, corn fondue, and truffle sauce – surprisingly, I enjoyed the truffle popcorn more than the foie gras in this dish. The foie was interesting with corn and the flavors were great, but it was a tad overcooked…it lacked that plump, lusciousness that I love about foie gras.
Wild jumbo prawns with brioche crust, sweet and sour radicchio, cannellini bean emulsion, crispy pork belly – the least interesting dish of the night. It was good, but tasted like any standard shrimp in cream sauce. Also, these prawns weren’t really what I’d call “jumbo”.
Boneless quail stuffed with sweetbreads, roasted parsnips and young leeks and foie gras, lightly smoked apple flavored veal jus, pine nuts – absolutely sublime! This dish brought me back to France. It was rich and complex with many layers of flavors. The combination of tender, savory quail with the unctuous sweetbreads was pure heaven. The crisp parsnips and leeks added a nice contrast (while the foie didn’t do anything for the dish). My favorite dish of the evening.
Grand Marnier soufflé – I’ve been crazy about Grand Marnier soufflés ever since I had my first at Gary Danko’s almost a decade ago, but this soufflé was too eggy and thick. It didn’t have that ethereal fluffiness that makes soufflés so heavenly.
Fleur burger and caramel-banana milkshake – fun to look at and even more fun to eat! The “burger” was warm chocolate ganache between a golden beignet “bun”. (The waiters were amused when B asked for mustard after they brought this out. Such a cheeseball!). This dessert was delightful, and I enjoyed washing down all that food with a cold, frothy milkshake.
Chef Hubert Keller greeted us after our meal, which made our night. He was so gracious and kind. He truly sets the tone for his restaurant, as his staff was just as warm.

Fleur de Lys is a special restaurant, and I’d like to come back. However, I would order differently next time, focusing less on the classic French dishes (with the exception of that mouth-watering quail!) and more on the newer, creative menu items. The prices are also fairly reasonable for a fine dining experience.

BITE METER: Fleur de Lys – 4.0 bites (out of 5)