Incanto – Italian Fare for the Adventurous

I’ve been frequenting Incanto for years. It never fails to hit the spot when I’m craving comforting, rustic Italian food. Their ingredients are always high quality and include interesting and daring menu items – a haven for adventurous meat lovers. Chef Chris Cosentino has been rocking offal dishes way before the ‘head to tail’ movement became popular. The restaurant also has a warm atmosphere and staff that are both knowledgeable and passionate about the food.

Boccalone Ibérico di Bellota Lardo, Shinku Pear & Mint – composed of paper thin ribbons of lardo (back fat) from the celebrated Ibérico di Bellota pigs (free-range and fed only acorns…think Kobe beef of pigs) draped over cool, crisp pears and refreshing mint. The lardo was remarkably light, while giving the pears had this buttery melt-in-your-mouth coating. Exquisite!
Quail and Caper Salad– wish it was served warm, but the flavors were great and the richness of the quail shined.
Burnt Flour Rigatoni, Wild Mushrooms & Nettles – a throwback to the poor’s utilization of “used flour”, the burnt flour created a denser pasta with a chocolate color. I loved the strong flavors of the wild mushrooms….sumptuous and earthy with a bite from the nettles. Just what I needed on a cold, rainy day.
Roasted Lamb Neck, Smashed Roots, Broccoli di Ciccio & Gremolata – my hubby’s favorite dish at Incanto. He can’t resist whenever it’s on the menu. The lamb neck is moist and meaty, while the Italian parsley and gremolata balances its richness with herb and citrus flavors.

While this wasn’t the best meal that I’ve had at Incanto, it’s only because the bar has been set so high by the many other amazing meals I’ve had here over the years. I still dream of their amazing braised octopus dish and can’t wait for it to featured on the menu again. What I love most about Incanto is its ability to constantly showcase unique ingredients or serve food in a different way while keeping still making it *feel* traditional.

BITE METER: Incanto – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Foodtruck Fun

The foodtruck phenomenon has long taken hold on San Francisco and keeps on growing. Below are some of my favorite meals on wheels:

Roli Roti – I’ve already written about Roli Roti, but I can’t do a food truck/stand themed without mentioning their unbelievably amazing porchetta sandwich. Thick slabs of oh-so-juicy roasted pork, seasoned to perfection with rock salt and rosemary, topped with bits of crunchy pork cracklings, caramelized onions, and fresh arugula…all in a big, crispy roll. No other place comes close its quality and price. (Tip: The short line is for their rotisserie chicken only. There’s a reason why it’s short, stick with the pork.)

Chairman Bao – Next to Roli Roti, Chairman Bao is my favorite food truck in San Francisco. Just the thought of their pillowy steamed buns filled with fatty, savory pork belly and crunchy slices of pickled daikon makes me salivate. Their duck confit and mango salad bun should also not be missed. After waiting in line (this truck usually has the longest line), you should get your fill on both.

Cupkates – I have a weakness for red velvet cupcakes, and these are one of the best around! Super moist and rich with the perfect hint of chocolate, while the cream cheese frosting is light and tangy. DELISH! However, I would not recommend the s’mores cupcake. It tasted bitter and oily, while the marshmallow frosting was overly sweet.

JapaCurry – Mmmmm, their pork katsu curry will warm your soul. Tender breaded pork cutlets smothered with a savory Japanese curry, all over a heaping serving of rice. Great to eat on a cold day.

Hapa SF – the adobo chicken banh mi is a tasty Filipino take on the Vietnamese sandwich. The chicken was flavorful and moist, while the pickled veggies kept it light.

Curry Up Now – I’ve only had the chicken tikka masala burrito. The chicken was slightly dry, but well dressed by the creamy and spicy tikka masala. Overall pretty good, but I prefer the fresh-out-of-the-tandoori-oven chicken tikka masala naan rolls served at Jack London Square Farmers’ Market on Sundays.

Food trucks that didn’t make the cut:

• Kung Fu Tacos – chicken was dry and the tacos were not particularly memorable.

• The Crème Brûlée Cart – the vanilla bean crème brûlée was bland, and served warmer than room temperature, like it’d been sitting out all day. Bleh.

• Senor Sisig – their tacos were waaaaaaaaaaaay too salty

BITE METER:

Roli Roti – 4.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Chairman Bao – 4.5 bites

JapaCurry – 3.5 bites

Cupkates – 3.5 bites

Hapa SF - 3.5 bites

Curry Up Now – 3.0 bites

Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.

Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Commonwealth - Creativity Without Punch

I applaud Commonwealth for offering progressive food at an affordable price, as well as donating a portion of their tasting menu to local non-profits. The dishes were well composed and creative, displaying a wide range of flavors and talent. Unfortunately, everything was *so* balanced that the essence of each dish was lost. There was so much going on that nothing really stood out. The dishes needed more focus and punch.

Porcini Churros with Huckleberry Jam – These tasted much better than they looked (let's not discuss what they resembled). The flavor of the mushroom wasn’t very prominent, but I enjoyed the warm bready/doughy churro with the tart huckleberry jam.
Grilled Chicken Livers – This was my first experience with grilled chicken liver…the texture is much more stringy and definitely not as elegant as foie gras (duck liver). The flavor of the chicken liver was too strong and mineral-like when eaten on its own. However, it tasted a lot better when combined with the brown rice & black pepper crackers along with the pickled onions and herbs.
Slow-cooked Farm Egg, Matsutake Mushrooms, Barley – More about experiencing the textures, as the flavors were quite subtle. I liked how the soft, creamy egg coated the salty mushrooms and the chewy barley…all washed down with a smooth dashi broth.

Kabocha Pumpkin, Black Kale, Yuba, Coconut Milk – A more refined version of pumpkin curry. The balls of pumpkin and strands of yuba were nicely cooked and coated with a slightly sweet and creamy curry foam.
Sweet Potato Tempura with Sea Urchin – Being obsessed with sea urchin, I was most looking forward to this dish. However, it ended up just being ok. The sea urchin wasn’t that high quality, and I thought it should’ve been better incorporated into the dish instead of just laying next to the tempura. The spicy yuzu sauce had a nice kick though.
Sierra Mackerel on the Plancha, Smoked Potatoes – Least interesting dish of the evening. The fish was meaty and cooked well, but needed more seasoning and acidity…making it bland and boring.
Cinnamon Mille-Feuille, Cardamom Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache, Burnt Honey Ice Cream - Very creative with a multitude of different flavors and textures. It was exciting and fun to eat each component separately and in different combinations. I really liked the cardamom marshmallow and the sweet burnt honey ice cream, especially with the candied cocoa nibs.
This was one of the rare meals where I didn’t really have a favorite dish of the evening. The food was pretty good overall, but there was nothing that I loved. My dinner felt a little flat and left something to be desired. The tables are also really close together, and the space feels cramped. On the other hand, the service was great with knowledgeable and friendly waiters, and nothing on the menu was more than $15.

To sum it up, I wouldn't mind eating at Commonwealth again, but I also wouldn't miss it if I didn't either.

BITE METER: Commonwealth – 3.0 bites (out of 5.0)

flour+water – Good but Overrated

I’ve heard a lot of hype about flour+water, but it took me a while to finally eat here…reservations are tough (only half the tables can be reserved) and there’s always a crowd of people waiting outside for a table. There was also a lot of press about Steve Jobs trying to get a table here but leaving because he’d have to wait. Despite all of hullabaloo, I found my dinner at flour+water to be good but overrated.

Pomodoro Pizza (heirloom tomatoes, caciocavallo, wild arugula) – the flavors were great with the smoky caciocavallo (aged mozzarella) and the sweet, juicy tomatoes, but the consistency was wrong. I’m very particular about thin crust pizzas being crispy, and this whole pizza was soggy except for the outer crust. A bummer since I had been most excited about trying the pizza here.
Chitarra with saffron braised squid, halibut, peppers & tomatoes – a failure. The pasta was overcooked and the seafood was so bland. (Note: I also tried my husband’s spaghetti alla puttanesca with sardines, and the flavors and textures of that dish were spot-on.)
Chocolate budino with espresso-caramel cream & sea salt – finally, a spectacular dish. The budino was like a chocolate pot de crème only much thicker. Perfect combination of sweet, salty, coffee, and creamy.
Because the prices were so reasonable, I would probably give this restaurant another shot…but definitely not without reservations. With such a range of hits and misses, it’s not worth waiting for.

BITE METER: flour+water – 2.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Benu – Transforming Asian Concepts into Pure Luxury

I first experienced Chef Corey Lee’s culinary talents while he was working under the helm of Thomas Keller at French Laundry. At the ripe age of 28, he became French Laundry’s chef de cuisine and deemed a wunderkind of the restaurant world. So ever since I heard Lee was branching out to create his own restaurant, I’ve been anxiously awaiting the opening of Benu.

And I must say that the food at Benu totally captured my heart. Chef Lee took many Asian comfort foods and elevated them to a completely different level. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of eating at a ‘fine dining’ restaurant while also being embraced by the comforts and memories of home and my family with his food. The chef’s tasting menu showcased a multitude of flavors, textures, and techniques…

1000 Year Old Quail Egg – a remake of the classic Chinese preserved duck egg, Chef Lee refined it by using quail egg instead and adding slices of ginger and green onion. To me, the yolk is the best part of preserved eggs, so the small quail egg didn’t have enough of that pungent, creamy yolk to counter the bland, gelatinous white exterior.
Lonsdale – fun and delicate. The large green bubble burst in my mouth, filling it with a cool and slightly sweet liquid of green apple. A bit of gin balanced the sweetness, and basil gave it an herbal finish. This reminded me of the ‘mojito bubble’ that I had at minibar…I’m loving this trend of cocktails in a bite!
Sea Urchin & Almond Tofu, Caviar, Sparkling Grape – the almond tofu was a bit too thick, but its milky, nuttiness accentuated the sweetness of the creamy sea urchin inside. All nicely balanced with the salty pearls of caviar and the acidity of the sparkling grape foam.
Spanish Mackerel, Pain de Mie – incredible. I love, love, LOVED this dish! The fish was cooked between two thin slices of crispy bread, but it looked like one seamless piece (almost like pork belly). I was swooning over the moist, meaty fish with its salty, garlicky crust…perfectly balanced by the dehydrated slivers of lemon. The flavors and textures were similar to fried fish, but so much more sophisticated. I’m already planning on coming back for this dish on the a la carte menu...it’s *that* good!
Eel, Feuille de Brick, Crème Fraiche (right) – a playful dish with a “cigar” of wild Japanese eel wrapped in paper thin layers of crispy feuille de brick (even thinner than phyllo dough). The eel tasted similar to a white fish but more savory, and was exquisitely paired with a dip made of crème fraiche and lime salt.
Caramelized Anchovy, Peanut, Lilly Bulb (left) – not a lot of substance, but interesting experience of taste and textures…jelly cubes with a subtle anchovy flavor, tiny salted fish, crispy peanuts, and cool, fresh petals of lily bulb.
Mountain Yam and Shrimp Soufflé (back) – Like a moist fluffy cake, but more starchy and with a subtle shrimp flavor…reminded me of the Japanese tamago.
Monkfish Liver Torchon, Brioche – one of my absolute favorites! This was very similar in style and technique to the foie gras torchon I had at French Laundry, although the use of monkfish liver (instead of duck liver) made it much lighter with soft sweet undertones. Creamy, luscious liver spread over a warm, buttery brioche…sexy, elegant, and rich all at once. I even licked my knife to make sure I got every last bit!
“Shark’s Fin” Soup, Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Custard – such genius! The custom-made bowl held a thin layer of silky, black truffle custard at the bottom, which was covered by a warm dashi (fish broth), faux strands of “shark fin” made of gelatin, and sweet, succulent pieces of crab…sooooo sumptuous and delicious! I would have never thought of truffles with Asian food, especially something as traditional as shark fin soup, but I was floored by how good this dish was. The black truffle added a whole new dimension to the soup.
Pumpkin Porridge, Lobster, Black Truffle – again, Chef Lee demonstrates his creativity with Asian cuisine by taking something as humble as rice porridge and turning it into something so luxurious. I loved the sweetness of the pumpkin and lobster against the distinct earthiness of the truffles. I also appreciated having warm, comforting courses (soup and porridge) in the tasting menu – it goes down so easily and is especially soothing after drinking lots of wine.
Eight Treasure Duck – like a duck sausage filled with a bunch of indistinguishable components. I mainly tasted the salty duck with a bit of honey-like sweetness. Not bad, not great.
Beef Rib Cap, Matsutake Mushroom – most disappointing dish of the evening. After being pampered by such lavish dishes, I was expecting melt-in-your mouth beef. Instead, this was dry and chewy. Our waitress explained that the firm consistency was normal for this particular cut – my suggestion would be to serve a different cut. (Note: she did offer to get me something else when she noticed I hardly touched my beef, but I declined since I was getting full. At least the matsutake mushrooms were prepared well.)
Huckleberry Sorbet, Yogurt, Lemon Curd, Vanilla Sponge – the huckleberry was tart and vibrant, tasted like a mix of strawberry and blueberry. Fruity and refreshing on my palate.
Chestnut Custard, Cranberry, Mace Ice Cream – the chestnut and mace (similar to nutmeg) flavors reminded me of the holidays and made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. A great dessert for the fall season.
Petit Fours – delectable chocolates cleverly encased inside a sleek wooden cube
There were a couple of misses on the tasting menu, but the high points more than made up for them. Next time, I’m going to order off Benu’s a la carte menu since it also featured some of my favorites from the tasting menu (I especially loved the seafood dishes). I also appreciated the thought and creativity that went into the design of the ceramics and plates.

The only thing I didn’t particularly care for about the restaurant was its bland interior. It had a cold, unfinished feel with the high ceilings and beams, sharp angles, and the almost all white décor. The service also lacked warmth, but was very polite and attentive. With a little more tweaking and finesse, Benu could be something magnificent. The restaurant has a lot of potential, and I look forward to the continued growth of Chef Lee’s career.

BITE METER: Benu – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Gussie’s Chicken & Waffles – Got Half of it Right

My husband’s favorite food is fried chicken, so he loves that the ‘chicken and waffles’ concept allows him to eat it for breakfast…nothing like some good ol’ fried chicken to get your morning started! After the quality of Little Skillet’s waffles went downhill, he wanted to give Gussie’s Chicken & Waffles a try…

Unfortunately, their waffles weren’t very good either. They were soft and limp, like they had been sitting out for a while. (B got the sweet potato waffles, which were a lot better). However, the fried chicken was excellent - delicious crisp skin and nice, salty flavor. Finger lickin’ good!
I have a soft spot for biscuits and gravy, so we also got an order to share. The gravy was tasty with bits of ham, but the biscuits were too doughy.
Overall, the restaurant was ok, but not good enough for me to want to come back.

BITE METER: Gussie’s Chicken & Waffles– 2.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Canteen – Didn’t Quench My Thirst or My Appetite

I’m a huge fan of Chef Dennis Leary’s Sentinel (takeout shop serving some of San Francisco’s best muffins and gourmet sandwiches), so I was looking forward to finally eating at his dinner establishment, Canteen. What a disappointment.

The restaurant feels like a cozy diner. The space is tiny and narrow with just 7 seats at the counter and a handful of small booths against the wall. But that's where the similarities with a diner end. The menu changes weekly depending on what’s in season and what the chef feels like cooking. Unfortunately for me, the food was mediocre and bland the night I dined there. And unlike many diners, the service was slow. They only have 2 seatings a night, and everyone comes in around the same time for each seating. This causes their 1 waitress to get slammed and leaves guests waiting. It also feels like a bit of a cattle call, shuffling people in and out at the same time.

Sea Scallops with Sweet Onion Puree, Coriander, Verjus – the only well executed dish of the night. The scallops were perfectly caramelized, while still soft and sweet on the inside. The sweet onion puree tasted wonderful and was light and frothy.

Veal and Ricotta Meatballs, Corn and Fava Bean Succotash – the meatballs were bland and boring. They needed some spice or flavor, which would have provided a better contrast to the fresh vegetables.
Gratin of Artichokes, Porcini Mushrooms, and Parmesan – this was more like mashed potatoes mixed with artichokes and mushrooms than a gratin. There was no golden crust, only mushiness. I’m surprised they served this as an entrée since its simplicity seemed more appropriate for a side dish. The mushrooms were good, but the artichokes were tasteless and added nothing to the dish. A very unsatisfying, one-note dish.
Lamb Loin with Ratatouille, Fresh Chickpeas, and Lamb Broth – the lamb was chewy and bland. They also didn’t give me a steak knife so was a pain to cut the meat. The only appetizing part about this dish was the smoky eggplant puree in the “deconstructed” ratatouille.
Butterscotch Pudding with Salted Hazelnuts – flavor was good, but the pudding was thin and runny. The watery consistency was a turn-off.
For the most part, my meal at Canteen was a bust. They made so many basic mistakes – poor seasoning, not serving food at the proper consistencies, and overcooking meat. The flavors and textures are so spot-on at Sentinel; it’s shocking that both places are run by the same person.

BITE METER: Canteen – 2.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Nopalito – Freshness You Can Taste

Fresh is the first word that comes to mind when I think about Nopalito. You can truly taste the freshness of their ingredients, which bring their Mexican dishes to life. Nopalito’s food has a contemporary California flair, but still stays true to traditional Mexican flavors.

Taco de Pescado al Pastor (seared fish in adobo, chile ancho, orange, salsa de morita y tomatillo) – pretty good, but the taco could have used more fish. The tangy orange was a nice contrast to the spice.
Quesadilla Roja con Chicharrón (chile mulato corn tortilla, crispy pork belly, salsa guajillo, jack cheese, queso fresco) – my favorite dish. The crunchy tortilla had a vibrant corn taste, while the flavors of the savory pork belly were accentuated by the little crispy bits of fried pork skin. I also appreciated how the quesadilla had a lot of substance without being too heavy or greasy.
Enchiladas de Mole con Pollo (tortillas, shredded chicken, sauce of chiles, chocolate, and nuts with queso fresco and refried pinquito beans) – B’s more of a mole fan than I am, but I enjoyed the subtle sweetness and spice of this mole. A simple and well-balanced dish.
WARNING: Bathroom goers beware! Nopalito only has ONE bathroom for its 60 guests, requiring a lengthy wait for those with small bladders. Not a good idea to drink too many cervezas here!

BITE METER: Nopalito – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)