Incanto – Italian Fare for the Adventurous

I’ve been frequenting Incanto for years. It never fails to hit the spot when I’m craving comforting, rustic Italian food. Their ingredients are always high quality and include interesting and daring menu items – a haven for adventurous meat lovers. Chef Chris Cosentino has been rocking offal dishes way before the ‘head to tail’ movement became popular. The restaurant also has a warm atmosphere and staff that are both knowledgeable and passionate about the food.

Boccalone Ibérico di Bellota Lardo, Shinku Pear & Mint – composed of paper thin ribbons of lardo (back fat) from the celebrated Ibérico di Bellota pigs (free-range and fed only acorns…think Kobe beef of pigs) draped over cool, crisp pears and refreshing mint. The lardo was remarkably light, while giving the pears had this buttery melt-in-your-mouth coating. Exquisite!
Quail and Caper Salad– wish it was served warm, but the flavors were great and the richness of the quail shined.
Burnt Flour Rigatoni, Wild Mushrooms & Nettles – a throwback to the poor’s utilization of “used flour”, the burnt flour created a denser pasta with a chocolate color. I loved the strong flavors of the wild mushrooms….sumptuous and earthy with a bite from the nettles. Just what I needed on a cold, rainy day.
Roasted Lamb Neck, Smashed Roots, Broccoli di Ciccio & Gremolata – my hubby’s favorite dish at Incanto. He can’t resist whenever it’s on the menu. The lamb neck is moist and meaty, while the Italian parsley and gremolata balances its richness with herb and citrus flavors.

While this wasn’t the best meal that I’ve had at Incanto, it’s only because the bar has been set so high by the many other amazing meals I’ve had here over the years. I still dream of their amazing braised octopus dish and can’t wait for it to featured on the menu again. What I love most about Incanto is its ability to constantly showcase unique ingredients or serve food in a different way while keeping still making it *feel* traditional.

BITE METER: Incanto – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

flour+water – Good but Overrated

I’ve heard a lot of hype about flour+water, but it took me a while to finally eat here…reservations are tough (only half the tables can be reserved) and there’s always a crowd of people waiting outside for a table. There was also a lot of press about Steve Jobs trying to get a table here but leaving because he’d have to wait. Despite all of hullabaloo, I found my dinner at flour+water to be good but overrated.

Pomodoro Pizza (heirloom tomatoes, caciocavallo, wild arugula) – the flavors were great with the smoky caciocavallo (aged mozzarella) and the sweet, juicy tomatoes, but the consistency was wrong. I’m very particular about thin crust pizzas being crispy, and this whole pizza was soggy except for the outer crust. A bummer since I had been most excited about trying the pizza here.
Chitarra with saffron braised squid, halibut, peppers & tomatoes – a failure. The pasta was overcooked and the seafood was so bland. (Note: I also tried my husband’s spaghetti alla puttanesca with sardines, and the flavors and textures of that dish were spot-on.)
Chocolate budino with espresso-caramel cream & sea salt – finally, a spectacular dish. The budino was like a chocolate pot de crème only much thicker. Perfect combination of sweet, salty, coffee, and creamy.
Because the prices were so reasonable, I would probably give this restaurant another shot…but definitely not without reservations. With such a range of hits and misses, it’s not worth waiting for.

BITE METER: flour+water – 2.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Rialto – Yawn...

I’m going to keep this post relatively short because there isn’t that much to say about Rialto. The restaurant had no personality. Everything – food, décor, staff – was so muted and boring. The dining room has very low ceilings, dated faux-suede sage booths, and light yellow and white drapes on the walls…neutral and nothing more. The staff was very amateur, and our waitress couldn’t even describe the food. The only word she seemed to know was “beautiful”…that was her main response to our questions on various items on the menu. Um, thanks.

Heirloom Minestrone Soup - On the bland side. The fresh, clean flavor of the peas were the only thing that stood out.
Wavy Black Ink Risotto with Clams – the most successful dish of the evening despite the clumsy presentation. The razor clam was fresh and meaty, while risotto had a fantastic briny, shellfish flavor and depth.

Seared Salt Cod Gnocchi – the ratatouille was nice, but it didn’t compensate for the extremely dry gnocchi. The cod had this strange gummy saltiness to it, and I couldn’t eat anymore after a few bites.

Slow Braised Rabbit Leg & Grilled Rack Over Polenta - the rabbit was very tender, but there was a sweetness to sauce that I found to be too cloying. I would have much preferred a savory sauce/preparation.
Pistachio Olive Oil Cake, Toasted Almond Panna Cotta, & Chili Chocolate Sorbet – I really enjoyed the almond panna cotta and wished they would have just served that for dessert. The pistachio cake was topped with really sour pistachios…bleh. The chili chocolate sorbet was interesting, but didn’t really go with the rest of the plate.
Overall, my experience at Rialto wasn’t particularly good or bad, just ho-hum. It received a few awards several years ago, but my meal leads me to believe that the restaurant is now past its prime. I was bored and uninspired.

BITE METER: Rialto – 2.0 bites (out of 5)

Credo - I'm a Believer

Credo, Italian for “I Believe”, is a cute spot in the Financial District. The quotes on the wall are fun to read. They have good wines by the glass, and their caesar salad was delish! If you come here, you *must* order the Sedanini alla Credo – it’s like pasta pot pie! You may be intimidated by its enormous size, but don’t be scared...you will finish it. I wolfed it down - large tubes of rigatoni pasta and slices of Italian sausage mixed in a zesty tomato sauce, covered by a thin layer of crispy pizza dough. Like I said, pasta pot pie! Watch out for the pancetta though, it tasted more like soft cubes of fat. That’s a little much, even for me.

BITE METER: Credo – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

Scampo – Jailhouse Rock

It may sound strange, but my favorite thing about Scampo is the building it’s in. The restaurant is inside the chic Liberty Hotel, which used to be a jailhouse - the hotel’s lobby is so cool and unique. As for the food at Scampo, it was hit and miss – but pretty good overall.

Bread Sticks w/ Fava Bean Puree – more fun than your average bread bowl
Mozzarella w/ King Crab, Cocktail Avocado & Green Mustard Oil – one of the many options from their “mozzarella bar”. I love the taste of fresh-made mozzarella, and it went really well with the salsa and avocado. However, I preferred to eat the king crab by itself, so I could better appreciate its sweet succulence. There are very few instances where seafood and cheese should be eaten together, and this wasn’t one of them. Overall, a light and refreshing appetizer.
Spinach Gnocchi Gnudi w/ Verdicchio and Squid Butter – one of the more interesting gnocchi dishes that I’ve had…like eating spinach dip in gnocchi form. It was rich but still delicate. The baby squid was super tender, and the squid butter added a nice seafood depth to the sauce. I really enjoyed this dish and would order it again.
Spaghetti Vongole – just ok. The texture of pasta was good, but this dish had way too many red pepper flakes. The spice overpowered the flavor of the clams.
Broccoli Rabe w/ Crisp Polenta Croutons – I would not recommend this side. It was way too bitter, and I didn’t want any more after the my first bite.

Pineapple Cake with Ice Cream – average

BITE METER: Scampo – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Farina – Sometimes Food Just Isn’t Enough

I had read somewhere that Farina boasts the best pesto in San Francisco, so naturally the Italian food-lover in me wanted to eat it. I’m glad I had it, but would probably not come here again.

Aside from our waiter, the staff was terrible. The host was snooty and condescending – I was actually quite taken aback since I’ve never encountered such an attitude (even at famed 3 Michelin star restaurants). The bartender took forever to greet me, and then overcharged me by an extra glass of wine. Then the kitchen forgot the anchovies in my pizzata focaccia – it was one of the key ingredients!

At least I enjoyed the food for the most part…

Manilla Clams – oddly enough, I don’t remember anything about this dish! I think it was pretty good, but obviously unmemorable.
Pizzata Focaccia – although they forgot the anchovies (which our waiter later brought out separately in a ramekin), I thought this pizatta was great. The texture of the focaccia was perfect, it had just enough tomato sauce and oregano, and the cheese was warm and oozing.
Handkerchief Pasta with Genovese Basil Pesto – the bright lime green color was definitely a surprise, but this pasta was wonderful. The handmade pasta had a lovely silky texture, and the pesto was creamy yet delicate and fresh. Was it “the best pesto” that I’ve had? No, I was actually more impressed by the handkerchief pasta than the pesto sauce…I loved how it just glided in my mouth.
Overall, the food was good, but not good enough to overcome the poor service.

BITE METER: Farina – 3.0 bites (out of 5)

Rocca – Didn’t Rocca My World

Hidden off a side street in Boston’s South End, I was surprised by how large Rocca was when I walked inside. Two stories with high ceilings, exposed brick, and a contemporary lofty vibe – the restaurant felt more like San Francisco than Boston.

Portabella Pizzetta with Fontina, Mozzarella, Parmigiano, and Basil – it came out at the perfect temperature with warm gooey cheese, but the flavors were too subdued. I couldn’t really taste the tomatoes or the basil, which made me wonder about the quality of the produce. For something so simple, it’s especially critical that the ingredients be really fresh so their flavors stand out. Although the bottom of the pizzetta was crispy, the middle was very doughy – coupled with the soft toppings, the overall mushy consistency was unappealing. The whole thing reminded me of frozen pizza from the grocery store. This definitely looked better than it tasted.

Pappardelle with Wild Boar & Porcini Meatballs, Parsley-Lemon Breadcrumbs, and Parmigiano – the pasta could have been more al dente, but the extra wide papperdelle was still delicious. There was no skimping with the 3 huge wild boar and porcini meatballs…packed with nice salty and earthy flavors and no gaminess from the wild boar. The parsley-lemon breadcrumbs added nice zest to brighten the dish.
Braised Short Ribs with Brussels Sprouts, Red Onions, Butternut Squash Polenta, and Orange-Parsley Gremolata – The colors of this entrée were quite striking, but like the pizzetta, it didn’t taste as good as it looked. The components of this dish were all over the place and uncohesive. The short ribs were tender and moist, but needed salt. The polenta was like glue – completely bland with no butternut squash flavor to be detected. The orange zest in the gremolata tasted strange with the dish. The only thing done right was the brussels sprouts – fresh and buttery without the usual bitterness.
Apple Crostata with Cinnamon Gelato and Caramel – Average. The crostata had a nice flaky crust, and I liked the extra crunchy texture of the brown sugar grains.
I would probably only come back here to have a glass of wine at the bar and eat the papperdelle again. Actually, they served my wine in a water glass [Major pet peeve: When restaurants don’t use the proper stemware for wine]. Nevermind, it’s unlikely that I’ll be back.

BITE METER: Rocca - 2.5 bites (out of 5)

Il Cane Rosso – A Casual Setting for a Remarkable Lunch

It was a chilly morning at the Farmers Market so I went inside the Ferry Building in search of something to warm me up…and found Il Cane Rosso, which had recently taken over the old Mistral space. "The Red Dog" is a joint venture between Daniel Patterson (chef of Coi) and Lauren Kiino (former Delfina chef) offering casual, Italian-inspired cuisine made with only local ingredients – many sourced directly from producers featured at the Ferry Building.

Heirloom Organic Carrot Soup with Dill Oil – the flavors were clean and straightforward. It reminded me of a butternut squash soup, but not as sweet and much lighter. The dill oil added a nice herbal note to the soup.

Gristmill Polenta with Sage Butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano – this is exactly how I like polenta…super thick and creamy with a nice chunky texture from the grains (people need to stop serving weak and mushy polenta). The sharp flavor of the parmigiano-reggiano balanced its richness. This polenta was so deliciously hearty and comforting.

Early Girl Tomato Sandwich with Fromage Blanc, Basil and Arugula – this sandwich looked so simple, yet it was absolute perfection. A prime example of how great ingredients can make all the difference in the world...just using any tomato, bread, or cheese would have made this sandwich taste completely different. The early girl tomatoes were extraordinarily sweet and powerful, it was like eating candy. The bread was plain and really airy so it didn’t dominate the sandwich, but it was toasted just right so that its crispy presence held up to the other ingredients. The Cowgirl Creamery fromage blanc was light and creamy, giving the sandwich just a bit of richness. And rounding out the sandwich was the delicate bitterness of the arugula and the sweet, grassy zip of the fresh basil. Also, served on the side were slices of pickled white carrots...crunchy, tart, and slightly sweet. It was all DELISH!!
I love having an incredible meal when I least expect it. I was just looking for a warm lunch and got so much more at Il Cane Rosso – simple and comforting food with a sophisticated touch.

After eating, I made a beeline to the Dirty Girl Produce stand to buy some early girl tomatoes. I was smitten by their incredible sweetness in my sandwich (sorry, my beloved heirlooms – you’ll now have to share my heart with these early girls!) I learned that early girl tomatoes are usually dry-farmed so they take in less water, increasing the concentration of their sweet flavor.

BITE METER: Il Cane Rosso - 4.5 bites (out of 5.0)

No. 9 Park – Nine Reasons I’ll Be Back

9. Location: Inside a historic townhouse at the corner of the Boston Common, it’s an ideal setting for No. 9 Park.

8. Reputation: Barbara Lynch is a celebrated chef in the Boston area – a James Beard Award winner and chef/owner of several restaurants in the city. Fortunately, this restaurant did not suffer from her expansion to so many different establishments.

7. Ambience: Although the entire restaurant had an elegant charm, I liked sitting in the back dining room. It felt more warm and cozy – lush neutral colored fabrics and dark woods lit by a soft golden glow.

6. Menu: The cuisine is both Italian and French inspired. There were so many enticing options on the menu that it was difficult deciding what to order. Had it not been a Monday night, I probably would have gotten the 7 course tasting menu instead of the 3 course.

5. Roasted Ribeye with Braised Oxtail and Potato & Truffle Mille-Feuille: While I wish the beef had been more tender (still can’t get that Saga beef out of my mind!), I still enjoyed the components of this dish. The braised oxtail was rich and comforting, chanterelle mushrooms were earthy and succulent, and the potato truffle mille-feuille was moist and buttery with a perfect crispy crust.

4. Wine List: The wine list contained many interesting varietals of wine – including some grapes I hadn’t heard of before. Our waiter wanted to make sure we found just the right wine and graciously poured us a few tastings before we made our decisions. I was impressed by the unique flavor profiles and complexity of their wines.

3. Prune Stuffed Gnocchi with Seared Foie Gras: Much larger and less dense than traditional gnocchi, these soft pillows were laid on a small pool of Vin Santo sauce. I couldn't really taste the Vin Santo; it was lost amidst the stronger flavors of the other components. I usually find prunes to be quite unappealing, but thoroughly enjoyed how their sweet tartness cut the richness of the foie gras.

2. Concord Grape Clafoutis: This dessert was out of this world! The clafoutis was cut into small cake wheels which were dense yet creamy and had a rich nutty flavor. The dessert also contained stewed concord grapes, grape gelée, caramelized peanuts, and peanut ice cream – mixed together it was an explosion of flavors and textures. What a sophisticated and decadent play on the peanut butter and jelly sandwich!

1. Service: I’ve found the service at many fine dining establishments in Boston to lack the professionalism and finesse of their peers in San Francisco and New York; however, our waiter at No. 9 Park was one of the best I’ve had in a while. He was very knowledgeable about the food and wine, yet came across as very unassuming and hospitable. He was extremely helpful in selecting our wines and gave superb recommendations on foods that were new to us (loved the cafloutis and B’s sunchoke velouté soup!)

I will definitely return for the 7 course chef’s tasting menu!

BITE METER: No. 9 Park – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

Napa Valley in August

B and I headed up to Napa with some friends to take advantage of the perks that came with our new Goldeneye wine club membership – free tastings at their sister wineries. We’d been to Duckhorn before (great merlots), so we decided to give Paraduxx a try. But first, we needed to get some food into our systems!

We had lunch at Bottega Restaurant. I had wanted to try it after a friend gave it high praises, so I had made reservations as soon as we planned to go to Napa. However after watching the latest episode of Top Chef Masters (TCM) a few days before our trip, I had almost canceled our reservations. Chiarello’s display of his big, nasty ego left a very bad taste in my mouth, and I didn’t want to support someone like that. However, since the recommendation came from a trusted foodie friend, I decided to give Bottega a try and hope that “reality" television editing made Chiarello seem much worse than he really is.

The restaurant is hidden in the back corner of a strip of other restaurants and shops, so it was a little hard to find. Walking up, I noticed their huge patio shaded by a bright orange awning and wished I had known to request outdoor seating with my reservation (of course, it was already filled). Fortunately, the inside of their restaurant was also quite pleasant and we got a table by the window. Bottega had a rustic yet contemporary feel to it – exposed brick walls, high ceilings, large black metal fixtures.

First up was the salmon tartare and halibut crudo. I was immediately impressed by the presentation – it came on a huge pink salt block. The salmon tartar was good, but didn’t stand out. I enjoyed the silky texture of the fresh halibut, but found the strong licorice/anise flavor of the fennel seed topping to overpower the delicate fish.
Next was the ‘polenta under glass’. I have never seen polenta come in a jar before so I thought the presentation was interesting. The polenta was rich and creamy, and the earthy flavors of the caramelized sautéed mushrooms made a perfect complement.
For my entrée, I had the chitarra-cut spaghetti with white gulf prawns. This dish tasted exactly like I had hoped it would. The hand-cut spaghetti had the springy texture of homemade pasta. The tomato-fennel sauce captured the rich, seafood flavor of the prawn heads, without being overwhelmingly fishy or cloying. The portion size was also just right – just enough to not leave me wanting more, but also didn’t leave me feeling stuffed (a difficult thing for me to balance given my large appetite!)
What *did* put me over the top was dessert! A warm, milk chocolate cake topped with crème anglaise and hazelnut toffee. This dessert is made-to-order so we literally got it right out of the oven. The cake was warm and fluffy like a dense soufflé, and it had that gooey molten center that I dream about. The crunchy texture of the hazelnut toffee provided a nice contrast.
The service was great. Our waitress was helpful and efficient – she even timed our dessert and brought our check out in advance so we could make our wine tasting appointment on time. Chiarello didn’t walk around the restaurant that day, so I can’t say whether he comes off as cocky in person as he did on TCM. However, I will say that his food did taste as good as they looked on the show. I will be back to Bottega.

After stuffing ourselves, we made our way over to Paraduxx. The winery has a much more modern look to it than its sister wineries. We were escorted to the back patio for our tasting. The area was set up well - only a few tables with sleek black Adirondack-like chairs, shaded with big umbrellas. It was a great atmosphere to sit back and drink lots of wine. We tasted 8 wines, each accompanied by a ‘postcard’ of the particular wine’s label filled with information and tasting notes on the back. I like the concept of their wine labels – different stamps with pictures of ducks. Paraduxx specializes in zinfandels, and we tasted their current releases as well as their limited production wines. I really liked their zins – they much more body than typical zins because of their higher cabernet sauvignon content, and you could taste many different layers of fruit and spice.
B and I purchased the 2004 Paraduxx because that was our favorite. Here is a Wine News review that describes the wine better than I ever could: “Dense inky purple hue. Spicy scents of powdered chocolate, nuts and earth. Dusty entry with spicy terroir notes that showcase raspberry flavors and echoes of walnut and mocha from this unusual blend of zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Rich and coating on the close with ripe berries and oak-laced tannins. 92 points”
We then went to Salvestrin Winery, a tiny family-owned winery that’s been around for almost 100 years. The tasting room manager was really friendly. We had the room to ourselves, and he sat at our table talking to us for quite a while. He also gave us recommendations for other small wineries, which I noted for my next trip to Napa. That’s what I love about the smaller wineries – the personal dialog and attention. Salvestrin makes more red wines, but I thought their 2008 Estate Sauvignon Blanc was the most interesting. It was bright and crisp, and had a very unique honeysuckle taste.

Believe it or not, we were hungry again. We had overheard people talking about Pizzeria Tra Vigne, so we decided to check it out. We immediately ordered a pitcher of strawberry lemonade to wake up our taste buds after all that heavy wine. We then had the chicken salad, the margherita pizza (tomato sauce, mozzarella, and basil), and the ducati pizza (spicy Italian sausage, capicola, sun-dried tomatoes, mushroom, mozzarella, and tomato sauce). The food was just ok. The crusts should have been more crispy, and the margherita pizza was lacking that fresh mozzarella taste. At least the italian sausage on the ducati pizza had a good kick to it.

BITE METER:
Bottega Restaurant - 4.0 bites (out of 5)
Paraduxx Winery - 4.0 bites (out of 5)
Salvestrin Winery - 3.0 bites (out of 5)
Tra Vigne Pizzeria - 2.5 bites (out of 5)