Asana – Style Over Substance

Asana is clad with the chic and modern décor associated with Mandarin Oriental Hotels (the one in Tokyo is spectacular!)…dark woods, cool grey tones, fine linens and tableware. However, the restaurant’s food lacked soul and depth. Maybe I’ve been spoiled by bounty of local produce in San Francisco, but I couldn’t taste the freshness of the ingredients the dishes here. They just didn’t sing.

Chilled Watermelon Soup with Maine Peekytoe Crab - light and refreshing with hints of apple, but wish it had a little more kick to it. I also would’ve liked more crab…those little bits were just a tease.

Braised Veal Cheek & Sweet Breads with Fava Beans & Shimeji Mushrooms – this appetizer had immediately caught my eye on the menu, but turned out to be ho-hum. The veal cheeks were moist and savory, but everything else was poorly executed. The sweet breads were mushy and bland (what a tragedy!), and the fava beans and mushrooms had no flavor.
Roasted Poussin with English Peas & Morels – the 28 day-old chicken was beautifully prepared, extremely tender and juicy. Unfortunately, I just can’t get over the sad state of these morels. Lacking that rich flavor of the beloved morels, these tasted like they’d been sitting around for too long and became stale…probably the only time I’ve ever been disappointed by morels (Side note: my most memorable morels experience was at Jean Georges a few years ago…to die for!)
Lamb Rack with Apricot Jam, Wheat, Chocolate-Chili Sauce – the only standout dish of the evening. The lamb was beautiful…nice charred crust while tender on inside, and I loved the sweetness of apricot jam with it. A touch more heat in the chocolate-chili sauce would have elevated the dish even further.
Cherry Parfait Glacé with Muscat Foam – a light and easy way to finish off the meal. The glacé was cross between a semifreddo and a mousse…cool, creamy, and smooth with a hint of cherry tartness.
Final verdict: Trendy hotel restaurant with an interesting menu, but lacked the substance to support it.

BITE METER: Asana – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

Toro – Small Plates Packed with Big Flavors

Toro is one of my favorite restaurants in Boston. Fun, laid-back atmosphere, a menu filled with lots of tasty food, and outdoor seating on a warm, summer evening. I always look forward to Chef Ken Oringer’s scrumptious sea urchin creations (which he features in different forms at all of his restaurants)…he’s like Boston’s Uni King! Toro is Chef Oringer’s take on Spanish cuisine. My only pet peeve about this place is that they serve wine in water glasses – call me a snob, but proper stemware *does* make a difference in the taste of the wine.

Tomato and Watermelon Gazpacho – ahhhhh, so refreshing on a hot day. The gazpacho was served really cold (rather than just chilled) and effortlessly balanced the sweet and salty flavors.

Escalivada Catalana – this blend of wood-roasted eggplants, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and olive oil tasted wonderful spread over bread. It was thick, slightly sweet, and whet my appetite for the procession of small plates to come.
Uni Bocadillo – WOW! I relished in the bold flavors of this pressed uni sandwich with miso butter and pickled mustard seeds. Although the uni could have been fresher, it tasted soooooo good with the miso butter…biting through that hot, crispy bread into buttery, ocean flavors with a sharp zing from the mustard seeds. Mmmm!
Za’atar and Honey Glazed Pork Ribs – the sweet honey was a perfect complement to the Moroccan spice. The meat was a bit dry, but still fell right off the bones. The yogurt also added a cooling touch to the dish. Overall, the flavors brought a lightness to the otherwise heavy ribs.
Panza de Cerdo (crispy pork belly with sunchoke, escargot, fava beans and smoked maple crumble) – a fiesta of flavor! So many ingredients and tastes, all enhancing one another. The pork belly was cooked to perfection…meaty and fatty with a super, crispy layer of skin. The escargot was tender and smoky, adding a unique element to the dish.
Erizos en Suquet (Catalan stew of sea urchin, lobster and crab meat) – it was like a rich and thick seafood bouillabaisse. While the taste of shellfish was evident in the stew, it was so salty that the sweet flavors of the lobster and crab meat were lost. I did appreciate the stew’s creamy, unctuous undertone from the sea urchin though.
Toro is my place to eat, drink and be merry in Boston!

BITE METER: Toro – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

Rialto – Yawn...

I’m going to keep this post relatively short because there isn’t that much to say about Rialto. The restaurant had no personality. Everything – food, décor, staff – was so muted and boring. The dining room has very low ceilings, dated faux-suede sage booths, and light yellow and white drapes on the walls…neutral and nothing more. The staff was very amateur, and our waitress couldn’t even describe the food. The only word she seemed to know was “beautiful”…that was her main response to our questions on various items on the menu. Um, thanks.

Heirloom Minestrone Soup - On the bland side. The fresh, clean flavor of the peas were the only thing that stood out.
Wavy Black Ink Risotto with Clams – the most successful dish of the evening despite the clumsy presentation. The razor clam was fresh and meaty, while risotto had a fantastic briny, shellfish flavor and depth.

Seared Salt Cod Gnocchi – the ratatouille was nice, but it didn’t compensate for the extremely dry gnocchi. The cod had this strange gummy saltiness to it, and I couldn’t eat anymore after a few bites.

Slow Braised Rabbit Leg & Grilled Rack Over Polenta - the rabbit was very tender, but there was a sweetness to sauce that I found to be too cloying. I would have much preferred a savory sauce/preparation.
Pistachio Olive Oil Cake, Toasted Almond Panna Cotta, & Chili Chocolate Sorbet – I really enjoyed the almond panna cotta and wished they would have just served that for dessert. The pistachio cake was topped with really sour pistachios…bleh. The chili chocolate sorbet was interesting, but didn’t really go with the rest of the plate.
Overall, my experience at Rialto wasn’t particularly good or bad, just ho-hum. It received a few awards several years ago, but my meal leads me to believe that the restaurant is now past its prime. I was bored and uninspired.

BITE METER: Rialto – 2.0 bites (out of 5)

Oleana – Moussaka Me!

Oleana has been on my list of restaurants to try in the Boston area. Located in Cambridge, Oleana takes a modern approach to Eastern Mediterranean cuisine, which results in sultry, delicious food. The restaurant has a warm and comfortable atmosphere, while the staff gives just the right amount of friendliness and attentiveness. [TIP: Get a table on their patio. It’s a fantastic place to dine on a summer evening and has the charm of a friend’s backyard, only bigger!]

Octopus Salad with Kaparosalata & Fava Toast – beautifully prepared and oh-so-tender. The octopus was meaty yet had a delicate ocean flavor. The octopus was nicely balanced by the acidity of the capers and the firm fava beans on the crunchy toast.
Sultan’s Delight: Tamarind Glazed Beef & Smokey Eggplant Purée with Pinenuts – the beef was good, but the eggplant purée stole the spotlight in this dish. It was so creamy and luscious…Mmmm! The braised beef was quite tender, falling apart with just a fork. I also enjoyed the subtle and elegant use of the tamarind, since it’s usually more of an in-your-face flavor.
Flattened Lemon Chicken with Za’atar & Turkish Cheese Pancake – the chicken was overcooked and dry, but the skin had a lovely crisp and lots of flavor from the za’atar. Eating the chicken with the Turkish cheese pancake helped give it some moistness and richness. This was the only dish I didn't like…I knew I should have ordered the Morrocan-spiced shrimp. Next time.
Moussaka: Minced Lamb & Eggplant Pie with Whipped Fava – *sigh*, this dish brought me back to the Greek islands, and I could almost see its cobalt blue waters again. This moussaka was made perfectly, and it’s served as a side dish so the portion is just right…looooooooved it! It was lighter and fluffier than traditional moussakas, but without sacrificing any of the flavors. The ground lamb was rich and savory with just a hint of spice. Seriously, this is *my* kind of comfort food and the best dish of the night.
Frozen Meyer Lemon Soufflé with Pistachio Milk Glacé & Pistachio Katmer on Hibiscus Syrup – the perfect ending to a lovely meal. I appreciated how they revamped the traditional Mediterranean desserts, as well as the simple yet sophisticated presentation. The frozen soufflé had the texture of a frozen custard or semifreddo – it was creamy and sweet, but the meyer lemon added a bright and fresh element to the dessert. The pistachio katmer is similar to the flaky, rich baklava – a nice contrast to the soufflé. And the pistachio milk glacé (ice cream) tied everything together. DELISH!
Oleana, I’m coming back for your moussaka (as well as your other tasty bites)!

BITE METER: Oleana – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

Maria’s Pastry Shop – The Perfect Cannoli

Filled fresh to order, the cannolis from Maria’s Pastry Shop are the BEST IN BOSTON. One day I was feeling especially piggyish and decided to do my own cannoli tasting in Boston. I got cannolis from the three most popular pastry shops in the North End – Mike’s, Modern, and Maria’s (funny how they all start with the letter ‘M’). Maria’s was by far the best…the ricotta cheese filling was sweetened just enough (i.e. you still could tell it was ricotta cheese) and the delicate shell had the perfect crunch because they fill it *after* you order it. Simple yet perfect.
Modern was my second favorite, and Mike’s was a distant third. They put too much crap on the cannolis at Mike’s Pastry. Also the fried shell was way too thick, and filling tasted like pure sugar (like the cheap frosting they put on cupcakes at supermarkets). It’s so ironic because Mike’s is always jam packed with crowds and tourists – I guess it shows what good marketing can do for a business.

On the other hand, that’s a bonus for me. The crazy crowds are elsewhere, and I rarely have to wait in line at Maria’s…woo-hoo! Without fail, I always get the perfect cannoli which spreads a huge smile on my face everytime I come here. To top it all off, Maria's also has a charming, Italian ‘mom & pop’ shop feel to it, while the other pastry shops are more flashy and less personal.

BITE METER: Maria’s Pastry Shop – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

Ginger Park – A Painful Brunch

After my great Southeast Asian-inspired brunch at Double Crown in NY, I had hoped my brunch at Ginger Park would be just as enjoyable since they draw from similar concepts. Unfortunately, that was as far the similarities went between the two restaurants. My brunch at Ginger Park was a train wreck. The service was horrible, and the food was mediocre at best. The only thing interesting about Ginger Park was the interior – it’s like being inside of a whale skeleton.

I can’t recall the last time that I’ve had service this bad (thank goodness). It took forever for a waiter to greet us. Then I had to wait 15 minutes for my green tea, and it was overseeped and way too bitter when it finally came out. If you’re not going to give me my own tea bag and bring it out pre-made in a cup, then at least make it correctly (but really, how do you mess up green tea?!). It took so long that I didn’t even bother asking for another one. We also had to ask for cream for my husband’s coffee multiple times from various people before it was finally brought out. On top of this, our orders also didn’t come out correctly…ridiculous! The restaurant was less than half full, so I know the poor service wasn’t due to them being busy. Is it possible that the *entire* staff was hungover from the previous night?

Thai Beef & Green Papaya Salad, Lemongrass Caramel Dressing – the flavors weren’t bad, but the texture was all wrong. The green papaya wasn’t fresh, so it was rubbery instead of haven that firm crunch.

Duck Confit Hash, Two Eggs & Green Onion Sauce - the egg was supposed to be over-easy, but was served overcooked instead. This dish was really greasy, but at least the duck tasted good.

Asian Pulled Pork Sandwich with Home-Made Chips – these potato chips were atrocious! Instead of being crispy, it tasted as if they’d been soaking in salt water - they were extremely soggy and oversalted. I never knew potato chips could taste gross, but apparently they can at Ginger Park. When I asked our waiter if this was the way the chips were supposed to be, he replied, “Yes, because they’re home-made”. Since when did “home-made” become an excuse for “horrible”?! I thought it meant made with care. Anyways, the pulled pork sandwich was decent and the meat was moist, but that’s about it.
I did not even look at the dessert menu here. Had to get out of this place…PRONTO!

BITE METER: Ginger Park – 1.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Scampo – Jailhouse Rock

It may sound strange, but my favorite thing about Scampo is the building it’s in. The restaurant is inside the chic Liberty Hotel, which used to be a jailhouse - the hotel’s lobby is so cool and unique. As for the food at Scampo, it was hit and miss – but pretty good overall.

Bread Sticks w/ Fava Bean Puree – more fun than your average bread bowl
Mozzarella w/ King Crab, Cocktail Avocado & Green Mustard Oil – one of the many options from their “mozzarella bar”. I love the taste of fresh-made mozzarella, and it went really well with the salsa and avocado. However, I preferred to eat the king crab by itself, so I could better appreciate its sweet succulence. There are very few instances where seafood and cheese should be eaten together, and this wasn’t one of them. Overall, a light and refreshing appetizer.
Spinach Gnocchi Gnudi w/ Verdicchio and Squid Butter – one of the more interesting gnocchi dishes that I’ve had…like eating spinach dip in gnocchi form. It was rich but still delicate. The baby squid was super tender, and the squid butter added a nice seafood depth to the sauce. I really enjoyed this dish and would order it again.
Spaghetti Vongole – just ok. The texture of pasta was good, but this dish had way too many red pepper flakes. The spice overpowered the flavor of the clams.
Broccoli Rabe w/ Crisp Polenta Croutons – I would not recommend this side. It was way too bitter, and I didn’t want any more after the my first bite.

Pineapple Cake with Ice Cream – average

BITE METER: Scampo – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

o ya – Oh Yeaaaaaaaah!

o ya is one of the best Japanese restaurants I’ve been to in the U.S., and by far my favorite restaurant in Boston (no other place even comes close). I’ve been to o ya several times and never want my meal to end whenever I’m here. I revel in the excitement and joy that each course brings. Chef/owner Tim Cushman has an innovative approach to sushi – each piece is comprised of elaborate components and beautiful sauces.

There is a quiet confidence to o ya. It’s tucked away on a nondescript side street, inside an old firehouse. The staff is efficient, yet welcoming. And most of all, I love sitting at the counter and watching the smooth precision of the sushi chefs – they have a multitude of ingredients to work with and so many dishes to make, yet they remain completely cool and execute each painstaking dish with such grace.

Poochi-Poochi Sparkling Sake – fun to say and even more fun to drink!

KUMAMOTO OYSTER, watermelon pearls, cucumber mignonette – refreshing and pleasant way to prepare our palates for the food to come.

SHIMA AJI & SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN, ceviche vinaigrette, cilantro – the ceviche vinaigrette stands out front and center with its bold citrus zest with a spicy kick, almost upstaging (while also complementing) the firm fish and sweet uni.

DIVER SCALLOP, sage tempura, olive oil bubbles, meyer lemon – the light olive oil foam brought out the velvetiness of the scallops, while the sage tempura added a crunchy surprise inside.

SUZUKI SEA BASS, cucumber vinaigrette, avocado, cilantro – if the color green could have a taste, this would be it. This was like biting into a fresh garden with its crisp flavors and textures. It made the suzuki sashimi (which I usually find boring) bright and interesting.
HAMACHI BELLY, yuzu soy marinated sea urchin – absolutely sublime. The hamachi belly was super buttery, and the creamy, unctuous uni heightened it into pure pleasure. I was actually moaning while eating this, it was so incredible.

SCOTTISH SALMON, spicy sesame ponzu, yuzu kosho, scallion oil – although the salmon was lovely, the sauce was too oily and salty. It needed more acid or something to contrast the salmon.

HAMACHI, viet mignonette, thai basil, shallot – I thought the fish sauce would totally overwhelm the hamachi (like it did at Le Bernardin), but the butteriness of the hamachi actually shined through the strong flavors. I also appreciated the hint of spice and crunchy bits of fried shallots.

HOUSE SMOKED MOULLARD DUCK TATAKI, foie gras kabayaki, arima sansho – great savory flavor, but a little chewy…or maybe it just seemed chewy after being spoiled by all the melt-in-your-mouth fish. You mean I actually have to chew my food now?!

SALMON, unfiltered wheat soy moromi, yuzu – B’s favorite dish of the evening. Similar to the direction they were going with the Scottish Salmon dish (see above), but the components here were much better balanced. The soy moromi reminded me of fermented black beans, only much lighter and less salty. It intensified the salmon and added more dimension to the fish.
SHIMA AJI, spicy grapeseed sauce, masago – really interesting. The grapeseed oil tasted almost like truffle oil, giving the shima aji an earthy tone and a nice, spicy finish.
FRIED KUMAMOTO OYSTER, yuzu kosho aioli, squid ink bubbles – a fun and unique bite. The fried oysters are crunchy and briny, while the yuzu aioli and squid ink give it a rich complexity.

ONSEN EGG, dashi sauce, truffle salt, homemade pickled garlic – I never thought I’d use the word luscious to describe an egg, but that’s what this was. This slow poached egg was soft, silky, and absolute perfection with the truffle salt and savory dashi sauce.

FRIED SOFT SHELL CRAB, soy sesame mousse, tamari yuzu beurre blanc, meyer lemon zest – the best soft shell crab I’ve had. I could actually taste the sweet crabmeat inside and the delicate shell wasn’t over-battered. The swirl of sauces were thick and rich, with a bit of tang.

SEARED WAGYU PETIT STRIP LOIN, potato confit, sea salt, white truffle oil – the epitome of decadence. The potato slices are actually cooked in the Wagyu fat (suddenly duck fat doesn’t seem so special)! By itself, this Wagyu wasn’t as good as the Kobe and Saga beef I’ve had in Japan, but when I ate it with the crisp potato confit and truffle oil, the marbled beef tasted like truffle butter….orgasmic!!

FOIE GRAS, balsamic chocolate kabayaki, raisin cocoa pulp – a bite of heaven! I order this every time I come to o ya. The perfectly seared foie melts into the sweet-savory chocolate kabayaki sauce when you put it in your mouth. Its rich velvetiness will transport you to another world. And if that isn’t enough, the dish is served with a small glass of aged sake – the foie gras brings out the smooth honey notes of the sake. This is one of my all-time favorite eats!
TRES LECHES SOAKED BOSTON CRÉME PIE, ocumare chocolate, sesame – unfortunately, the dessert wasn’t as successful as the rest of the meal. The wonderful richness of the tres leches was distorted by the sesame. I didn’t care for the flavors of this dessert and wish it had more textural contrast…too much mushiness. Next time, I’ll stick with my usual – the balsamic chocolate foie gras and aged sake are truly the perfect finish to the meal.

o ya is one of the few places where I want *everything* on the main menu, which says a lot considering their extensive list of items. So many menu options, so much creativity – all makes for an exciting, fun-filled ride for the taste buds. Their exquisite plating makes it a feast for the eyes as well. Speaking of eye candy, Jake Gyllenhaal was sitting at the table behind me. He’s just as cute in person as he is on the big screen. *sigh*

FYI – the dishes are pricey and quickly add up (especially if you eat like I do), so you should be prepared to loosen up your wallets. However, it’s well worth it – a small price to pay to enter food heaven. I always leave o ya looking forward to my next visit!

BITE METER: o ya – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

Train Ride from Boston to New York

B and I headed to New York for the weekend to visit our friends (thanks for being such wonderful hosts, D&N!). Maybe because I’m so used to flying around the country, I’d never thought of taking the train until B suggested it…I’ve been missing out! The train ride from Boston to New York was filled with gorgeous scenery as we passed through Connecticut and Rhode Island. It was so much more pleasant than sitting in a cramped airplane and actually took about same amount of time as flying (if you factor in time to/from airports, checking in, and security lines). The best part was that the Amtrak ticket cost half of what our plane tickets would have cost…sweet, more money to spend on food! :-9
One of the picturesque towns in Connecticut
Hello, Concrete Jungle!