Urasawa – An Expensive Sushi Extravaganza

I’ve been debating on whether to dine at Masa for years. At a minimum of $500 per person, its tasting menu is by far the most expensive in the U.S (heck, than most of the world). Is it worth paying *that* much money when I’ve already had some of the best sushi in Japan? Could the fish possibly be better than what the top restaurants in Tokyo get? So when I read rave reviews about Urasawa and found out that it was Chef Masa Takayama’s restaurant before he left to open Masa in New York and was now being run by his former sous-chef/protégé, AND the tasting menu was “only” $200 per person (it’s all relative, right?), I put Urasawa on my mental list of restaurants to dine at.

Unfortunately, that was a few years ago and Urasawa’s set menu has now almost doubled to $350 per person (that doesn’t include drinks or gratuity). But since I was finally going to be down in SoCal and my friends are also sushi fanatics, we decided to take the plunge and made reservations at Urasawa.

The restaurant is located in Beverly Hills on the second floor of a nondescript building on Rodeo Drive. Despite the ritzy address, I was pleased to find a simple and intimate space with just 9 seats along a beautifully sanded wood sushi bar.

The food was great overall, but what really made the restaurant stand out was the happy and friendly demeanor of Chef Hiro Urasawa . At most established sushi restaurants, the head chef is usually quite formal and stern. However, Hiro-san warmly introduced himself when we sat down and talked with us throughout our meal…all while never losing focus on the fish and making sure his staff attended to even the smallest details. The service was top notch. Not only did Hiro-san provide us with informative details of each course, he also tolerated my picture taking (not allowed in most high-end sushi places), calling me the “sushi paparazzi”. He did tell us that the nigiri must be eaten within 10 seconds of him making it, so I tried to quickly snap a shot or two (all in the name of good blogging!) before enjoying the sushi at its optimum…

[Note: There were 31 different presentations (yes, 31!) so I will keep my descriptions brief]

Ankimo wrapped Toro and Caviar – WOW, what a way to start the meal! Exquisitely plated and masterfully executed. The flavors of the toro (fatty tuna) and ankimo (monkfish liver) were rich and sumptuous, while the caviar and the daikon kept things bright and added interesting textures.
Ikura and Edamame Tofu – I’ve never had anything like this before. The ikura (salmon roe) burst with such a gentle sweetness. The saltiness was so subtle that I knew the roe was fresh and hadn’t been preserved in salt water for very long. The silky edamame tofu had a slight nutty taste and provided a perfect contrast.
Baby Japanese Eggplant - first time I’ve eaten raw eggplant. It was soft and slightly spongy, while dipping it in soy sauce accentuated its sweetness. Garden fresh taste even though it was flown in all the way from Osaka.
Sashimi (Toro, Kanpachi, Uni) – Amazing, one of my favorite courses. The sashimi was served in a beautiful hand-carved ice bowl by Hiro-san. The kanpachi was clean yet had a slight butteriness. And of course, the toro was melt-in-your-mouth heaven. But what really made my knees go weak was the uni (sea urchin) from Santa Barbara. It was absolutely sublime and some of the best I’ve had.
Kobe Beef Tartar and Caviar – two very luxurious ingredients, but I actually didn’t love this dish. The beef had similar savory-sweet flavors found in Chinese beef jerky, but it was too salty and overpowered the delicate caviar.
Shark Fin Soup – a soulful and elegant soup. The shark fin was so soft and tender, like a shitake mushroom only much more delicate. The only other time I’ve had shark fin soup this incredible was at Hiiragiya in Kyoto.
Tempura Anago – a Japanese version of the battered, fried fish. Crispy on the outside, then warm and meaty anago (sea eel) on the inside. The grated shiso leaf added an nice herbaceous element to the tempura.
Kobe Beef, Scallop, Prawn on Miso Paste – served over a small hot grill, the sweet and unctuous miso paste perfectly complemented each of the items, especially the oh-so-tender Kobe beef.
Shabu Shabu with King Eel, Red Snapper, Foie Gras, and Kombu Kelp - each item was individually placed in the boiling broth by our waiters to cook for just a few seconds. The king eel was kind of chewy with no distinguishable taste. Foie gras shabu shabu was a new concept for me, and I appreciated how the simple poaching kept the foie gras light and creamy. My favorite part of this course was actually drinking the broth afterwards. I was surprised that it was only a simple seaweed broth. But all the various items that had been cooked in it really developed the broth's depth and flavor.
Kama Toro (fatty tuna) – velvety and rich. This cut came from the collar of the tuna (unlike most toro which comes from the belly)
Seared Kama Toro (fatty tuna) – the quick sear further integrated the marbleized fat into the meat and made for a heavenly morsel
Katsuo (skipjack) – firm with a clean, subdued flavor
Kanpachi (amberjack) – liked it better in the sashimi, this cut was more chewy
Tai (red snapper) – although this had sudachi zest on top, it was too similar to the 2 other firm white fishes that were just served, none of which have a lot of flavor
Maguro (blue fin tuna) – like a beautiful red satin
Seki Aji (horse mackerel) – Hiro-san said this was the “number one mackerel from Japan”, but it didn’t particularly stand out from good aji I’ve had at other places
Ika (squid) – firm with a creamy finish, grated sudachi added flavor
Uni (sea urchin) – sweet, creamy, absolutely incredible! The most outstanding of piece of nigiri served. I wish I could have taken one of those containers of uni home with me!
ChuToro (medium fatty tuna) – rich and buttery goodness
Kohada (gizzard shad) – not as fishy as saba, but still has the oiliness and distinct flavor of silver fish
Baby Shrimp – kind of bland, needed some acidity to brighten it up. I prefer the version from Sushi Sam’s Edomata (only other place that I’ve had this).
Sanma (mackerel pike) – a traditional preparation that’s over 300 years old. The fish is "grilled" with hot metal rods pressed against the top, creating huge puffs of smoke. The chopped shiso balanced the saltiness and oiliness of the fish.
Shitake Mushroom – simple yet distinct woody and earthy flavors. The mushroom had been slowly grilled for the past hour and had a lovely tenderness.
Negitoro Maki (fatty tuna roll) - the toro was complemented by green onions and pickled radish
Awabi (abalone) – firm and slightly crunchy, but the sudachi tasted strange with it. Honestly, I usually find abalone flavorless in sushi and this was no different (only exception was the awabi at Sushi Mizutani, the best sushi restaurant I've been to date)
Amaebi (sweet shrimp) - this is as fresh as it gets! We watched Hiro-san take the large shrimp apart while it was still alive and moving. It didn't tast as sweet as I expected and had a slight mineral-like taste. Because it was so fresh, it was firmer than other amaebi I've had, but there was still a mushy consistency that I’m not fond of.
Aji No Tataki (minced Spanish mackerel) – interesting preparation, but I was so overloaded with mackerel (and sushi) at this point that it was difficult to appreciate this
Anago (sea eel) – I was relieved to have something bold and different to wake up my taste buds. The anago was lean, meaty, and full of flavor from the sweet kabayaki sauce
Tamago (egg cake) – fluffy and light with the distinct taste of egg, but also with a hint of sweetness. It is said that quality of the tamago is indicative of how good a sushi chef is..and Hiro-san's was especially delicious!
Asian Pear Gelée – great palate cleanser. Refreshing and tart.
White Sesame Ice Cream with Matcha Green Tea – smooth and creamy with the nutty sesame flavor. Hiro-san made the matcha with such care and precision, as if it had been a Japanese tea ceremony. I enjoyed the bitter contrast of the tea with the sweet dessert.
Three and a half hours later, I was beyond full. I never thought these words would ever come out of my mouth, but there *is* such a thing as too much sushi! The fish presented in the nigiri part of the meal became monotonous after a while. I would have enjoyed it more if Hiro-san had left some of the similar items out (i.e. didn’t need so many white fishes and mackerels) and kept the nigiri more distinct and focused. I also noticed that Hiro-san served nigiri to other diners in a different order, which I thought was strange. The order is important in multi-course meals, building up in richness and flavors…but Hiro-san’s was all over the place. Perhaps, my palate was overwhelmed too early in the meal with heavy items and that’s why it was hard for me to enjoy the more subtle flavors and differences in the fish later on.

Don’t get me wrong though, I REALLY enjoyed my dinner at Urasawa (especially the first half of the meal), but I expected a lot more given the price. I’ve also had similar or better sushi experiences elsewhere for less, so I probably wouldn’t come back to Urasawa unless they lower the prices. Unfortunately, Hiro-san mentioned wanting to raise prices again due to the strength of Japanese yen…so if you want to eat at Urasawa, get your butt here fast before the price goes up again!

BITE METER: Urasawa – 4.2 bites (out of 5)

Sushi Sam’s Edomata – My Favorite Sushi Place in the Bay Area

Every time I eat at Sushi Sam’s Edomata, I am filled with happiness…it’s like coming home. Their sushi is so damn good, and the people there are like family. I’ve been frequenting Sushi Sam’s for years, and am amazed that they still have new kinds of fish I haven't eaten before. Sam has contacts with top fish purveyors around the world and always has an impressive selection of high quality fish.

The restaurant doesn’t try to be fancy or trendy; it’s a laidback, family-run establishment that purely focuses on serving fresh fish in its best form. The preparation is more creative than traditional sushi, but still very much in harmony with the fish. The toppings and sauces accentuate the seafood without competing with it…and whatever you do, do not dip your sushi in the soy sauce! The chef has prepared it in the exact manner it should be eaten. Also, you MUST sit at the bar and order the omakase if you dine here. I repeat, DO NOT ORDER OFF THE STANDARD MENU! Put yourself in their skillful hands and enjoy as they wow your tastebuds with incredible sushi (the special sushi is listed on the board behind them).

Koichi and Sam - the sushi masters

I never want my meal to end when I’m here. So many tasty seafood morsels, so I just keep eating and eating…and eating...

Blue Shrimp – Firmer and more savory than amaebi. Perfect with the dash of citrus and special salt
Bonito – Super fresh with beautiful ruby color. Tastes similar to tuna, but soooo much better

Fried Blue Shrimp Heads – Like eating crispy shrimp chips!
Needle Fish – Firm texture with slight metallic finish, but not as oily as other silver fish (e.g. mackerel)
Amberjack – Clean flavor, yet meaty texture
Black Cod – Smoky char, buttery flesh, and sweet kiwi slices…love it!
Baby Lobster – Succulent lobster tail with sweet Japanese mayo and crunchy almond slivers
Baby Shrimp – Sweet little pearls of shrimp with a touch of soy and a creamy sauce
Unagi - Now this is how unagi should taste! Savory and peppery with a hot, crispy skin

Alfonsino – Firm with clean flavors, similar to other white fish but much more colorful (like plump strawberries!)

Saiwara – Cross between butterfish and tuna with slight smokiness
Baby squid – Soooo tender and scrumptious, brightened by the tangy and sweet sauce
Bonito – I couldn’t resist getting another piece :-)
Copper River Salmon – the MOST INCREDIBLE SALMON…rich and intense flavors. CRS is only in season during the summer, and Sushi Sam’s serves the best I’ve had anywhere.
Seared Toro – Always a mouth-watering delight! Slightly seared so the fish just melts in your mouth, while the salt and lemon juice helps to cut the fat
Crab – Sweet crab meat topped with rich, unctuous crab butter
And unlike many sushi places, Sushi Sam’s has their own pastry chef who always whips up new and delicious desserts. I was treated with THREE of her delectable sweets! Miso & Sesame Cake, Pina Colada Parfait, and Almond Tofu - all had a great balance of flavors and textures. What I appreciate most is that the desserts completely satisfy my sweet tooth without feeling too heavy. (I already feel heavy enough from indulging in all that sushi!)
Despite the fact that Sushi Sam’s is located in San Mateo (~30 minutes south of San Francisco), it’s usually packed with a crowd of people waiting outside (yes, it is *that* good). So I’d recommend coming on an off night if you can. The fish will still be just as fresh and mind-blowing…especially their bonito, seared toro, and of course, the Copper River salmon when it’s in season!

BITE METER: Sushi Sam’s Edomata – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

o ya – Oh Yeaaaaaaaah!

o ya is one of the best Japanese restaurants I’ve been to in the U.S., and by far my favorite restaurant in Boston (no other place even comes close). I’ve been to o ya several times and never want my meal to end whenever I’m here. I revel in the excitement and joy that each course brings. Chef/owner Tim Cushman has an innovative approach to sushi – each piece is comprised of elaborate components and beautiful sauces.

There is a quiet confidence to o ya. It’s tucked away on a nondescript side street, inside an old firehouse. The staff is efficient, yet welcoming. And most of all, I love sitting at the counter and watching the smooth precision of the sushi chefs – they have a multitude of ingredients to work with and so many dishes to make, yet they remain completely cool and execute each painstaking dish with such grace.

Poochi-Poochi Sparkling Sake – fun to say and even more fun to drink!

KUMAMOTO OYSTER, watermelon pearls, cucumber mignonette – refreshing and pleasant way to prepare our palates for the food to come.

SHIMA AJI & SANTA BARBARA SEA URCHIN, ceviche vinaigrette, cilantro – the ceviche vinaigrette stands out front and center with its bold citrus zest with a spicy kick, almost upstaging (while also complementing) the firm fish and sweet uni.

DIVER SCALLOP, sage tempura, olive oil bubbles, meyer lemon – the light olive oil foam brought out the velvetiness of the scallops, while the sage tempura added a crunchy surprise inside.

SUZUKI SEA BASS, cucumber vinaigrette, avocado, cilantro – if the color green could have a taste, this would be it. This was like biting into a fresh garden with its crisp flavors and textures. It made the suzuki sashimi (which I usually find boring) bright and interesting.
HAMACHI BELLY, yuzu soy marinated sea urchin – absolutely sublime. The hamachi belly was super buttery, and the creamy, unctuous uni heightened it into pure pleasure. I was actually moaning while eating this, it was so incredible.

SCOTTISH SALMON, spicy sesame ponzu, yuzu kosho, scallion oil – although the salmon was lovely, the sauce was too oily and salty. It needed more acid or something to contrast the salmon.

HAMACHI, viet mignonette, thai basil, shallot – I thought the fish sauce would totally overwhelm the hamachi (like it did at Le Bernardin), but the butteriness of the hamachi actually shined through the strong flavors. I also appreciated the hint of spice and crunchy bits of fried shallots.

HOUSE SMOKED MOULLARD DUCK TATAKI, foie gras kabayaki, arima sansho – great savory flavor, but a little chewy…or maybe it just seemed chewy after being spoiled by all the melt-in-your-mouth fish. You mean I actually have to chew my food now?!

SALMON, unfiltered wheat soy moromi, yuzu – B’s favorite dish of the evening. Similar to the direction they were going with the Scottish Salmon dish (see above), but the components here were much better balanced. The soy moromi reminded me of fermented black beans, only much lighter and less salty. It intensified the salmon and added more dimension to the fish.
SHIMA AJI, spicy grapeseed sauce, masago – really interesting. The grapeseed oil tasted almost like truffle oil, giving the shima aji an earthy tone and a nice, spicy finish.
FRIED KUMAMOTO OYSTER, yuzu kosho aioli, squid ink bubbles – a fun and unique bite. The fried oysters are crunchy and briny, while the yuzu aioli and squid ink give it a rich complexity.

ONSEN EGG, dashi sauce, truffle salt, homemade pickled garlic – I never thought I’d use the word luscious to describe an egg, but that’s what this was. This slow poached egg was soft, silky, and absolute perfection with the truffle salt and savory dashi sauce.

FRIED SOFT SHELL CRAB, soy sesame mousse, tamari yuzu beurre blanc, meyer lemon zest – the best soft shell crab I’ve had. I could actually taste the sweet crabmeat inside and the delicate shell wasn’t over-battered. The swirl of sauces were thick and rich, with a bit of tang.

SEARED WAGYU PETIT STRIP LOIN, potato confit, sea salt, white truffle oil – the epitome of decadence. The potato slices are actually cooked in the Wagyu fat (suddenly duck fat doesn’t seem so special)! By itself, this Wagyu wasn’t as good as the Kobe and Saga beef I’ve had in Japan, but when I ate it with the crisp potato confit and truffle oil, the marbled beef tasted like truffle butter….orgasmic!!

FOIE GRAS, balsamic chocolate kabayaki, raisin cocoa pulp – a bite of heaven! I order this every time I come to o ya. The perfectly seared foie melts into the sweet-savory chocolate kabayaki sauce when you put it in your mouth. Its rich velvetiness will transport you to another world. And if that isn’t enough, the dish is served with a small glass of aged sake – the foie gras brings out the smooth honey notes of the sake. This is one of my all-time favorite eats!
TRES LECHES SOAKED BOSTON CRÉME PIE, ocumare chocolate, sesame – unfortunately, the dessert wasn’t as successful as the rest of the meal. The wonderful richness of the tres leches was distorted by the sesame. I didn’t care for the flavors of this dessert and wish it had more textural contrast…too much mushiness. Next time, I’ll stick with my usual – the balsamic chocolate foie gras and aged sake are truly the perfect finish to the meal.

o ya is one of the few places where I want *everything* on the main menu, which says a lot considering their extensive list of items. So many menu options, so much creativity – all makes for an exciting, fun-filled ride for the taste buds. Their exquisite plating makes it a feast for the eyes as well. Speaking of eye candy, Jake Gyllenhaal was sitting at the table behind me. He’s just as cute in person as he is on the big screen. *sigh*

FYI – the dishes are pricey and quickly add up (especially if you eat like I do), so you should be prepared to loosen up your wallets. However, it’s well worth it – a small price to pay to enter food heaven. I always leave o ya looking forward to my next visit!

BITE METER: o ya – 4.5 bites (out of 5)