Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.

Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Bistro Vis à Vis – Cupid Misfires

I’m surprised by the high ratings received by Bistro Vis à Vis on Yelp. There were some creative ideas, but overall the food was just average…not deserving the ~$100/person bill. Maybe it was because their regular menu wasn’t available when I ate here (it was the same week as Valentine’s so they required everyone to have the set menu). Regardless, the service was clumsy and needs work. Our waiter was forgetful and would literally just drop food and wine off at the table without saying anything (he could have at least told us what kind of wine was being paired with each course!). The restaurant also lacks personality. I knew something was awry when I pulled up and found out it was located in a strip mall (it’s hard to overcome the cheesiness of a strip mall even if you are in Marin).

Abalone with Blood Oranges – the fresh abalone from Santa Cruz was coated and pan-fried, giving a unique savoriness and succulence, while the blood oranges added sweetness and acidity.
Mushroom and Shaved Truffle Salad – way overdressed. The tartness of vinaigrette overwhelmed the delicate truffle flavor. And the parmesan crisp was more rubbery than crispy.
Octopus Paperdelle – I forgot to take a photo, but you’re not missing much. I was expecting a rich paperdelle dish, but got pasta in a light broth instead. While the broth developed a good seafood flavor, the octopus was bland and chewy. The table next to me sent this dish back; I was too nice to do the same.

Pork Loin with Potatoes – best dish of the night. The pork was flavorful and juicy. I liked the use of different potatoes (gold, purple, and sweet) and serving them two ways, roasted and fried chips. The roasted potatoes were especially delightful…left ever so slightly raw in the middle to give them a bit of a crunch without tasting undercooked.
Chocolate Cake with Raspberries – dense, sweet chocolate. Nothing more, nothing less.
Okay food. Clumsy service. Weird ambience. Go someplace else.

BITE METER: Bistro Vis à Vis – 2.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Commonwealth - Creativity Without Punch

I applaud Commonwealth for offering progressive food at an affordable price, as well as donating a portion of their tasting menu to local non-profits. The dishes were well composed and creative, displaying a wide range of flavors and talent. Unfortunately, everything was *so* balanced that the essence of each dish was lost. There was so much going on that nothing really stood out. The dishes needed more focus and punch.

Porcini Churros with Huckleberry Jam – These tasted much better than they looked (let's not discuss what they resembled). The flavor of the mushroom wasn’t very prominent, but I enjoyed the warm bready/doughy churro with the tart huckleberry jam.
Grilled Chicken Livers – This was my first experience with grilled chicken liver…the texture is much more stringy and definitely not as elegant as foie gras (duck liver). The flavor of the chicken liver was too strong and mineral-like when eaten on its own. However, it tasted a lot better when combined with the brown rice & black pepper crackers along with the pickled onions and herbs.
Slow-cooked Farm Egg, Matsutake Mushrooms, Barley – More about experiencing the textures, as the flavors were quite subtle. I liked how the soft, creamy egg coated the salty mushrooms and the chewy barley…all washed down with a smooth dashi broth.

Kabocha Pumpkin, Black Kale, Yuba, Coconut Milk – A more refined version of pumpkin curry. The balls of pumpkin and strands of yuba were nicely cooked and coated with a slightly sweet and creamy curry foam.
Sweet Potato Tempura with Sea Urchin – Being obsessed with sea urchin, I was most looking forward to this dish. However, it ended up just being ok. The sea urchin wasn’t that high quality, and I thought it should’ve been better incorporated into the dish instead of just laying next to the tempura. The spicy yuzu sauce had a nice kick though.
Sierra Mackerel on the Plancha, Smoked Potatoes – Least interesting dish of the evening. The fish was meaty and cooked well, but needed more seasoning and acidity…making it bland and boring.
Cinnamon Mille-Feuille, Cardamom Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache, Burnt Honey Ice Cream - Very creative with a multitude of different flavors and textures. It was exciting and fun to eat each component separately and in different combinations. I really liked the cardamom marshmallow and the sweet burnt honey ice cream, especially with the candied cocoa nibs.
This was one of the rare meals where I didn’t really have a favorite dish of the evening. The food was pretty good overall, but there was nothing that I loved. My dinner felt a little flat and left something to be desired. The tables are also really close together, and the space feels cramped. On the other hand, the service was great with knowledgeable and friendly waiters, and nothing on the menu was more than $15.

To sum it up, I wouldn't mind eating at Commonwealth again, but I also wouldn't miss it if I didn't either.

BITE METER: Commonwealth – 3.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Asana – Style Over Substance

Asana is clad with the chic and modern décor associated with Mandarin Oriental Hotels (the one in Tokyo is spectacular!)…dark woods, cool grey tones, fine linens and tableware. However, the restaurant’s food lacked soul and depth. Maybe I’ve been spoiled by bounty of local produce in San Francisco, but I couldn’t taste the freshness of the ingredients the dishes here. They just didn’t sing.

Chilled Watermelon Soup with Maine Peekytoe Crab - light and refreshing with hints of apple, but wish it had a little more kick to it. I also would’ve liked more crab…those little bits were just a tease.

Braised Veal Cheek & Sweet Breads with Fava Beans & Shimeji Mushrooms – this appetizer had immediately caught my eye on the menu, but turned out to be ho-hum. The veal cheeks were moist and savory, but everything else was poorly executed. The sweet breads were mushy and bland (what a tragedy!), and the fava beans and mushrooms had no flavor.
Roasted Poussin with English Peas & Morels – the 28 day-old chicken was beautifully prepared, extremely tender and juicy. Unfortunately, I just can’t get over the sad state of these morels. Lacking that rich flavor of the beloved morels, these tasted like they’d been sitting around for too long and became stale…probably the only time I’ve ever been disappointed by morels (Side note: my most memorable morels experience was at Jean Georges a few years ago…to die for!)
Lamb Rack with Apricot Jam, Wheat, Chocolate-Chili Sauce – the only standout dish of the evening. The lamb was beautiful…nice charred crust while tender on inside, and I loved the sweetness of apricot jam with it. A touch more heat in the chocolate-chili sauce would have elevated the dish even further.
Cherry Parfait Glacé with Muscat Foam – a light and easy way to finish off the meal. The glacé was cross between a semifreddo and a mousse…cool, creamy, and smooth with a hint of cherry tartness.
Final verdict: Trendy hotel restaurant with an interesting menu, but lacked the substance to support it.

BITE METER: Asana – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

Wood Tavern – Already Wanting to Return

During a spontaneous visit to Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, I randomly decided to have lunch at Wood Tavern. What a wonderful surprise it turned out to be! I thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant’s scrumptious food and warm Californian bistro/bar atmosphere.

Peach & Burratta with Prosciutto di Parma – I loved the soft and luscious burratta cheese with the sweet peaches and salty prosciutto. Everything tasted so fresh, and the flavors of each component shined. The dish didn’t even need the balsamic vinegar.

“Surf N’ Turf” Sandwich (Oregon sweet shrimp, prosciutto di parma, English cucumber, garlic aioli) – the flavors were great with the interplay of sweet shrimp with cool, crisp cucumber and rich prosciutto. However, the bread was too thick and was too hard to get through, overpowering the delicate components inside. The bread had a nice crunchy texture and would have been better served as an open-faced sandwich. I was surprised by how much I liked their bright and zesty Tavern slaw (I usually detest coleslaw!)
Fresh Pappardelle with Okra, Sweet Corn, Zucchini – absolutely delightful! The pasta was PERFECTION. Everything was beautifully cooked. The vegetables tasted fresh and light, while the sauce also felt hearty. I couldn’t get enough of this dish.
Wood Tavern is a fantastic neighborhood restaurant, and I’ll definitely be back even though it’s not my neighborhood. Heck, I was already talking about what I wanted to eat next time before I even left the restaurant! Now that’s a sign of a quality place with an enticing menu.

BITE METER: Wood Tavern – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

230 Forest Avenue - Upbeat Eats in Laguna Beach

B and I flew down to SoCal to visit our friends that recently moved to Laguna Beach. After grabbing sunset cocktails on a rooftop bar, we headed to 230 Forest Avenue for dinner. Located in Laguna’s town area, the restaurant has an energetic yet easygoing atmosphere. The staff is friendly, and our waiter surprised us with a free chocolate croissant bread pudding when he saw that my friend’s birthday had just passed (Yes, they actually carded us when we ordered wine. I’ll take that to be a complement, thank you). The California-inspired menu had many seafood items, but I decided to order something more hearty since I was so hungry…little did I know how big their portion sizes are!

Tenderloin Stroganoff with White Truffle Oil – the intoxicating smell of truffles permeated our table as soon as my enormous entree arrived….how I do love truffles! Although I couldn’t really taste truffles in the dish, its essence was strong enough to give the stroganoff a luxurious flair. I enjoyed the rich sauce with the dollop of crème fraiche and the thick egg noodles, but the meat was a tad overcooked.
Overall, I liked the restaurant, and everything I tasted was good (I also sampled everyone else’s food, of course!) A great place to dine at when catching up with good friends.

BITE METER: 230Forest – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

Alinea - Beyond Words

Alinea has recently been hailed as the Best Restaurant in the U.S. (and #7 in the World). With such status, I had extremely high expectations and quite honestly, was a bit worried that I’d expect too much and be let down. Instead, I was *completely* blown away by my experience at Alinea and would have to whole heartedly agree that it’s the best restaurant I’ve been to in the U.S. (sorry, French Laundry). What’s even more remarkable is that Alinea has only been around for 5 years, during part of which Chef Grant Achatz had battled tongue cancer.

Words can not adequately describe the phenomenal meal I had at Alinea. It is a true experience in all forms – the surprise of hidden sliding doors, interacting with the uniquely stunning presentations of each dish, anticipating what the next extraordinary course would bring, and most importantly, having my taste buds delighted and pushed to the limit with innovative, incredible food. You really do just have to experience it for yourself.

The food at Alinea is progressive, ambitious, artistic, and totally original. It was creative without being gimmicky. Chef Achatz and his team take modern American cuisine to a whole new level with their inventive genius. They make fun and exciting food, while still putting care into every single little detail.

The service was impeccable. Every need was anticipated before we had to ask for anything. The staff was professional, courteous, and very knowledgeable (even knew the history of the stemware!) I learned so much about the food and wine. [Btw, I highly recommend the reserve wine pairing. The wine beautifully complemented the food – an impressive feat with ~20 courses!]

The only thing I did not love about my experience at Alinea was the ambience. The dining room (there are 3) is a small, rectangular room with modern, minimalist décor in cool grey, beige, and black tones. It felt impersonal and lacked warmth. It’s a good thing that the food was so mesmerizing; else it’d be awkward to be in such a sparse room where you are so acutely aware of your neighbors. But maybe that was intentional, and they want you to just focus on the food…

They hung these pretty sheets of rice paper at the edge of the table, piquing my curiosity. Are these flags surrendering us to the food? :-9
Trio of Edible Cocktails:
LEMON – a frozen and chewy pisco sour. Like a firm marshmallow with alcohol.
CUCUMBER - cool and refreshing. A pool of gin and rose water inside a cucumber cube with mint.
CHERRY – their “improved” version of a Manhattan in the form of a maraschino cherry. This one packed a punch and warmed my throat going down. Nice.
ENGLISH PEA – unlike anything I’ve ever eaten before! Peas were mixed with frozen burrata cheese and dusted with Iberico ham powder. It was ice cold yet creamy, salty, sweet, and meaty all at once. The sherry “bubbles” and melon would also transform each bite by accentuating different flavors.
Trio of Shrimp on a Stick, inspired by different countries in Asia:
FRIED SHRIMP (China) – shrimp tempura with fermented black bean on cinnamon stick, dusted with Chinese five spice powder. Light, crispy, and packed with flavor. So much better than corn dogs!
YUBA (Japan) – sesame shrimp wrapped over a fried yuba stick in a miso mayo sauce. I’ve never had yuba fried and really enjoyed it, but found the shrimp to be too salty.
CHAO TOM (Vietnam) – believe it or not, food you’re encouraged to spit out! The sugar cane was infused with shrimp paste and mint. After chewing on it to extract the flavors, you spit it out into a small paper napkin. The flavors were surprisingly delicate, like a lightly sweet shrimp broth. It was a nice way to round out the course.

TOMATOES – this dish transported me to another place. I was initially confused and intrigued when they put pillows on top of the table. Then I started to smell the fresh, grassy aroma emitted by the pillows. Once the plate of heirloom tomatoes was set on the pillows, more of the aroma was emitted as the pillows deflated…it was like eating ripe tomatoes straight from the garden! The tomatoes were paired with different elements in powdered form (fried bread crumbs, frozen cheeses, pine nuts, bell pepper, onion, olive oil, balsamic vinegar), and it was fun to mix and match. I especially liked the mozzarella, in powdered and fried form. If summer had a taste, this would be it.
DISTILLATION of Thai flavors – it looked like water but was actually fish sauce, lemon grass, and chilies distilled down to their purest form. I had expected intense flavors when I heard fish sauce, but the flavors were remarkably clean and smooth.
PORK BELLY– the mystery is solved…make your own spring roll with the rice paper. This pork belly was ABSOLUTELY ORGASMIC! It had been slowly simmered in coconut milk and just melted in my mouth. I wanted more! A beautiful and colorful display of the toppings for the spring roll (sea salt, cucumber, fried garlic, curried mango, lime, baby coconut, red onion, chili paste, cashews, marigold and leaves, basil seed and lime sauce). I can only imaging how much patience it took to prepare each of those tiny pieces with such precision.
Trio of King Crab – this unique bowl/structure held 3 different crab courses
1) CRAB MOUSSE – one of my favorite courses. The velvety and sweet crab mousse was in perfect harmony with the chilled and herbaceous chervil gelée, Unbelievably good.
2) KING CRAB – crab meat topped with bell pepper, and fried avocado crusted with crushed marcona almonds and topped plum slices. Pretty to look at but the least interesting of the trio.
3) CRAB GRATIN – I loved the combination of the crab with the cipollini onions, fennel, and cream. It was warm, savory, and decadent, while still allowing the sweetness of the crab to shine through.
HOT POTATO – great things really do come in small packages. The metal pick slides down to drop a piece of butter, hot potato, and black truffle into the tiny wax bowl filled with cold potato soup. Let me say that again – potatoes, butter, and truffles. This is my kind of comfort food! This was so delicious, it took all my restraint to keep myself from licking the bowl clean.
LAMB – this dish pays homage to Elysian Fields Farm, where the lamb comes from. Paper thin slices of the most incredibly tender lamb were skewered on a sprig of rosemary, placed over a pool of creamed corn, and topped with crispy strands of fried green onion “grass”. The combination of flavors and textures was magnificent. I especially loved the fried cubes of breaded lamb fat (yes, I’m a fried fat glutton!) which had a silky and meaty taste similar to sweetbreads.
BLACK TRUFFLE – this would be the love child of a Chinese soup dumpling and an Italian truffle ravioli. An explosion of black truffle broth filled my mouth as I bit into the disc of pasta. Mmm!
TOURNEDO à la persane – a throwback to the classics, by using a 100 year-old recipe from Le Guide Culinaire. The Australian Wagyu beef that was so tender that I could cut it with a butter knife. It was served over an Anaheim pepper stuffed with jasmine rice, a cherry tomato, a fried banana slice, and a Chateaubriand sauce. The dish was good, but after being wowed all night by Chef Achatz’ creative genius, I would have preferred seeing how he would have reinvented the dish.
BACON – to help transition to desserts, this small strip of crisp bacon was drizzled with butterscotch, “ribbons” of dehydrated granny smith apple, and thyme. As interesting to look at as it was to eat.
LEMON SODA – a dash of powdered lemon soda wrapped in edible clear paper. A great palate cleanser. (I ate this before taking a picture. Oops)

TRANSPARENCY – a more elegant version of a raspberry fruit roll-up.
BUBBLE GUM - a glass straw filled with long pepper, hibiscus gel, crème fraîche, and bubble gum tapioca pearls…all consumed with one big suck. Such a fun course! Brought me back to childhood.
EARL GREY – I was ready to dislike this dessert because I detest early grey tea, but this was surprisingly my favorite dessert of the evening. It was a moist and crumbly early grey cake served with pine nut custard, lemon curd, and rose gelée. The flavors were so well balanced – buttery, sweet, tart, and with just a hint of bitterness from the earl grey. The caramelized white chocolate noodle also added a playful yet tasty touch.
CHOCOLATE – The ultimate demonstration of fantasy and wonder at Alinea. A silicon tablecloth and several bowls and plates filled with mysterious items were placed on our table for the final dessert course. Then Chef Dave Beran (the Chef de Cuisine) comes out to greet us for a tableside presentation, where he pours molten chocolate into two glass cylinders and starts covering our table with chewy coconut balls, young coconut meringue, coconut milk, dark chocolate and menthol crumbs, hyssop leaves, and menthol crisps. Then he breaks a block of nitrogen-frozen chocolate mousse over the table and removes the glass cylinders to create a volcanic-looking chocolate wonderland. It was interesting to experience chocolate, coconut, and menthol in so many different tastes, temperatures, and textures. A tableside presentation like no other!
B and I were fortunate enough to get a quick tour of the kitchen. There are about 23 chefs/cooks in the kitchen for only 65 diners – that’s over 1 cook for every 3 diners! With so many people in the kitchen, it was impressively calm, quiet, and composed.
After our 4 hour meal, I felt inspired and completely enchanted. Alinea made me fall in love with food all over again. We stayed up that night talking about our experience for hours afterwards. I’ve had many great meals, but few have left me feeling so awestruck. The $185 tasting menu is pricey, but still a “bargain” considering the number of elaborate and well-executed courses...a small price to pay for one of the best meals of my life.

BITE METER: Alinea – 4.9 bites (out of 5)

Blackbird – Tasty Three Course Lunch for $22

With so many great restaurants and only 2 days in Chicago, it was difficult to decide which places I should eat at during this trip. Chef Paul Kahan has been recognized as one of the city’s top chefs, so I wanted to try one of his restaurants (Blackbird, Avec, The Publican). Ultimately, I chose Blackbird because of their $22 three course pre-fixe lunch…what a fantastic deal!

Since this was only be beginning of many meals to come, I wanted to keep lunch *relatively* light. So B and I split one of the pre-fixe lunches and ordered an extra entrée to share (the pork belly sandwich was calling my name).

Wood-grilled Octopus Confit with Pickled Ramps, Baby Romaine, Candied Red Onion – the presentation of the octopus was unique…almost like it had been congealed into a block of terrine, then sliced. The octopus was tender and delicate, although I would have liked some char to give it more flavor/smokiness. The candied red onion and pickled ramps were a nice complement.
Sous-vide Lamb with Lime Onions, Tamarind, Smoked Cucumbers – the lamb was beautifully cooked, really moist and tender. Although the other components had sounded interesting, they didn’t quite taste right with the lamb.
Organic Pork Belly and Cabbage Slaw Sandwich with Winter Vegetable Salad and Garlic Frites – the sandwich was scrumptious. All the elements were perfectly balanced...salty and fatty pork belly, acidity and crunch of the slaw, warm toasted bread. The fries, on the other hand, were a disappointment. They were soggy and no garlic was to be found.
Fried Polenta with Klug Farms Blueberries, Lemon Verbena, Smoked Brown Sugar Ice Cream – I loooooooved the flavors and textures of this dessert. Sweet, fruity, salty, smoky, starchy, creamy, crunchy…combined to make *the* most incredible bite. B said it reminded him of smoked blueberry pie (will have to figure out where to get one of those). I’ve never had polenta as part of dessert before, and it worked so well that I hope to find it in more!
Although there were a few missteps, I'd still recommend lunch at Blackbird. Good service, well executed proteins, and their fried polenta dessert was phenomenal (a MUST if you dine here). And of course, you really can’t beat their 3 course lunch for only $22.

BITE METER: Blackbird – 3.5 bites (out of 5)