Showing posts with label IL - Chicago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label IL - Chicago. Show all posts

September 03, 2010

Alinea - Beyond Words

Alinea has recently been hailed as the Best Restaurant in the U.S. (and #7 in the World). With such status, I had extremely high expectations and quite honestly, was a bit worried that I’d expect too much and be let down. Instead, I was *completely* blown away by my experience at Alinea and would have to whole heartedly agree that it’s the best restaurant I’ve been to in the U.S. (sorry, French Laundry). What’s even more remarkable is that Alinea has only been around for 5 years, during part of which Chef Grant Achatz had battled tongue cancer.

Words can not adequately describe the phenomenal meal I had at Alinea. It is a true experience in all forms – the surprise of hidden sliding doors, interacting with the uniquely stunning presentations of each dish, anticipating what the next extraordinary course would bring, and most importantly, having my taste buds delighted and pushed to the limit with innovative, incredible food. You really do just have to experience it for yourself.

The food at Alinea is progressive, ambitious, artistic, and totally original. It was creative without being gimmicky. Chef Achatz and his team take modern American cuisine to a whole new level with their inventive genius. They make fun and exciting food, while still putting care into every single little detail.

The service was impeccable. Every need was anticipated before we had to ask for anything. The staff was professional, courteous, and very knowledgeable (even knew the history of the stemware!) I learned so much about the food and wine. [Btw, I highly recommend the reserve wine pairing. The wine beautifully complemented the food – an impressive feat with ~20 courses!]

The only thing I did not love about my experience at Alinea was the ambience. The dining room (there are 3) is a small, rectangular room with modern, minimalist décor in cool grey, beige, and black tones. It felt impersonal and lacked warmth. It’s a good thing that the food was so mesmerizing; else it’d be awkward to be in such a sparse room where you are so acutely aware of your neighbors. But maybe that was intentional, and they want you to just focus on the food…

They hung these pretty sheets of rice paper at the edge of the table, piquing my curiosity. Are these flags surrendering us to the food? :-9
Trio of Edible Cocktails:
LEMON – a frozen and chewy pisco sour. Like a firm marshmallow with alcohol.
CUCUMBER - cool and refreshing. A pool of gin and rose water inside a cucumber cube with mint.
CHERRY – their “improved” version of a Manhattan in the form of a maraschino cherry. This one packed a punch and warmed my throat going down. Nice.
ENGLISH PEA – unlike anything I’ve ever eaten before! Peas were mixed with frozen burrata cheese and dusted with Iberico ham powder. It was ice cold yet creamy, salty, sweet, and meaty all at once. The sherry “bubbles” and melon would also transform each bite by accentuating different flavors.
Trio of Shrimp on a Stick, inspired by different countries in Asia:
FRIED SHRIMP (China) – shrimp tempura with fermented black bean on cinnamon stick, dusted with Chinese five spice powder. Light, crispy, and packed with flavor. So much better than corn dogs!
YUBA (Japan) – sesame shrimp wrapped over a fried yuba stick in a miso mayo sauce. I’ve never had yuba fried and really enjoyed it, but found the shrimp to be too salty.
CHAO TOM (Vietnam) – believe it or not, food you’re encouraged to spit out! The sugar cane was infused with shrimp paste and mint. After chewing on it to extract the flavors, you spit it out into a small paper napkin. The flavors were surprisingly delicate, like a lightly sweet shrimp broth. It was a nice way to round out the course.

TOMATOES – this dish transported me to another place. I was initially confused and intrigued when they put pillows on top of the table. Then I started to smell the fresh, grassy aroma emitted by the pillows. Once the plate of heirloom tomatoes was set on the pillows, more of the aroma was emitted as the pillows deflated…it was like eating ripe tomatoes straight from the garden! The tomatoes were paired with different elements in powdered form (fried bread crumbs, frozen cheeses, pine nuts, bell pepper, onion, olive oil, balsamic vinegar), and it was fun to mix and match. I especially liked the mozzarella, in powdered and fried form. If summer had a taste, this would be it.
DISTILLATION of Thai flavors – it looked like water but was actually fish sauce, lemon grass, and chilies distilled down to their purest form. I had expected intense flavors when I heard fish sauce, but the flavors were remarkably clean and smooth.
PORK BELLY– the mystery is solved…make your own spring roll with the rice paper. This pork belly was ABSOLUTELY ORGASMIC! It had been slowly simmered in coconut milk and just melted in my mouth. I wanted more! A beautiful and colorful display of the toppings for the spring roll (sea salt, cucumber, fried garlic, curried mango, lime, baby coconut, red onion, chili paste, cashews, marigold and leaves, basil seed and lime sauce). I can only imaging how much patience it took to prepare each of those tiny pieces with such precision.
Trio of King Crab – this unique bowl/structure held 3 different crab courses
1) CRAB MOUSSE – one of my favorite courses. The velvety and sweet crab mousse was in perfect harmony with the chilled and herbaceous chervil gelée, Unbelievably good.
2) KING CRAB – crab meat topped with bell pepper, and fried avocado crusted with crushed marcona almonds and topped plum slices. Pretty to look at but the least interesting of the trio.
3) CRAB GRATIN – I loved the combination of the crab with the cipollini onions, fennel, and cream. It was warm, savory, and decadent, while still allowing the sweetness of the crab to shine through.
HOT POTATO – great things really do come in small packages. The metal pick slides down to drop a piece of butter, hot potato, and black truffle into the tiny wax bowl filled with cold potato soup. Let me say that again – potatoes, butter, and truffles. This is my kind of comfort food! This was so delicious, it took all my restraint to keep myself from licking the bowl clean.
LAMB – this dish pays homage to Elysian Fields Farm, where the lamb comes from. Paper thin slices of the most incredibly tender lamb were skewered on a sprig of rosemary, placed over a pool of creamed corn, and topped with crispy strands of fried green onion “grass”. The combination of flavors and textures was magnificent. I especially loved the fried cubes of breaded lamb fat (yes, I’m a fried fat glutton!) which had a silky and meaty taste similar to sweetbreads.
BLACK TRUFFLE – this would be the love child of a Chinese soup dumpling and an Italian truffle ravioli. An explosion of black truffle broth filled my mouth as I bit into the disc of pasta. Mmm!
TOURNEDO à la persane – a throwback to the classics, by using a 100 year-old recipe from Le Guide Culinaire. The Australian Wagyu beef that was so tender that I could cut it with a butter knife. It was served over an Anaheim pepper stuffed with jasmine rice, a cherry tomato, a fried banana slice, and a Chateaubriand sauce. The dish was good, but after being wowed all night by Chef Achatz’ creative genius, I would have preferred seeing how he would have reinvented the dish.
BACON – to help transition to desserts, this small strip of crisp bacon was drizzled with butterscotch, “ribbons” of dehydrated granny smith apple, and thyme. As interesting to look at as it was to eat.
LEMON SODA – a dash of powdered lemon soda wrapped in edible clear paper. A great palate cleanser. (I ate this before taking a picture. Oops)

TRANSPARENCY – a more elegant version of a raspberry fruit roll-up.
BUBBLE GUM - a glass straw filled with long pepper, hibiscus gel, crème fraîche, and bubble gum tapioca pearls…all consumed with one big suck. Such a fun course! Brought me back to childhood.
EARL GREY – I was ready to dislike this dessert because I detest early grey tea, but this was surprisingly my favorite dessert of the evening. It was a moist and crumbly early grey cake served with pine nut custard, lemon curd, and rose gelée. The flavors were so well balanced – buttery, sweet, tart, and with just a hint of bitterness from the earl grey. The caramelized white chocolate noodle also added a playful yet tasty touch.
CHOCOLATE – The ultimate demonstration of fantasy and wonder at Alinea. A silicon tablecloth and several bowls and plates filled with mysterious items were placed on our table for the final dessert course. Then Chef Dave Beran (the Chef de Cuisine) comes out to greet us for a tableside presentation, where he pours molten chocolate into two glass cylinders and starts covering our table with chewy coconut balls, young coconut meringue, coconut milk, dark chocolate and menthol crumbs, hyssop leaves, and menthol crisps. Then he breaks a block of nitrogen-frozen chocolate mousse over the table and removes the glass cylinders to create a volcanic-looking chocolate wonderland. It was interesting to experience chocolate, coconut, and menthol in so many different tastes, temperatures, and textures. A tableside presentation like no other!
B and I were fortunate enough to get a quick tour of the kitchen. There are about 23 chefs/cooks in the kitchen for only 65 diners – that’s over 1 cook for every 3 diners! With so many people in the kitchen, it was impressively calm, quiet, and composed.
After our 4 hour meal, I felt inspired and completely enchanted. Alinea made me fall in love with food all over again. We stayed up that night talking about our experience for hours afterwards. I’ve had many great meals, but few have left me feeling so awestruck. The $185 tasting menu is pricey, but still a “bargain” considering the number of elaborate and well-executed courses...a small price to pay for one of the best meals of my life.

BITE METER: Alinea – 4.9 bites (out of 5)

August 30, 2010

Hot Doug’s – Heaven in a Bun

My heart quivered when I first heard about Hot Doug’s foie gras and sauternes duck sausage dog. It sounded too good to be true. From then on, I knew I had to make my way to Chicago and eat here before I die.

I made sure to arrive early at 11am, so the line wasn’t too long... only about a 20 minute wait. There were so many different types of hot dogs, it was difficult to choose. A friend and I were finally able to narrow it down to 3 of the specials to share (I would have ordered more but knew I had a 20+ course dinner at Alinea that night. I had to exercise *some* self control!)
The Order:
• Foie Gras & Sauternes Duck Sausage with truffle aioli, foie gras mousse, and fleur de sel
• Cognac-Infused Lamb & Pork Sausage with spinach raita and manchego cheese
• Saucisson Alsacienne Bacon Sausage with crème fraiche, carmelized onions and tomme de savoie
The Foie Gras dog was my favorite by far. It was rich, juicy and deliciously sinful with the creamy foie gras mousse. The Lamb & Pork sausage was quite good – great meaty flavor, and I especially liked the cool contrast of the yogurt from the spinach raita topping. The only dog I didn’t particularly care for was the Saucisson Alsacienne – it was too dry and salty.

Foie Gras & Sauternes Duck Sausage = Heaven in a bun!

Note: They are CASH ONLY, and make sure to check their hours online before you come.

BITE METER: Hot Doug’s – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

August 29, 2010

Frontera Grill and XOCO – Two Rick Bayless Restaurants in One Night

B and I thought we could beat the crowds by going to Frontera Grill at 6pm for dinner. WRONG. The restaurant was already completely packed, and it was 1 ½ - 2 hour wait for a table! Madness.

Since there wasn’t even room at the bar at Frontera, we decided to get a “snack” at Bayless’ new Mexican street food restaurant next door, XOCO, while we waited. If Bayless’ celebrated mole hadn’t looked so damned good on Top Chef Masters, I would’ve skipped Frontera all together and gotten my fill at XOCO. (You may have noticed that patience is not one of my virtues.)


XOCO is a very casual restaurant. You stand in line to order your food, and there are a few small tables inside and outside available for seating. The menu is primarily composed of tortas (sandwiches) and caldos (hearty soups). B and I ordered the Ahogada since the cashier told us it was one of their specialties, and it was a cross between a torta and a caldo…

Ahogada (golden pork carnitas, black bean, and pickled onion sandwich in a tomato broth with spicy arbol chile sauce) – a fiery explosion of flavor in my mouth! I enjoyed the contrast of the crunchy bread with the spicy tomato broth, creamy black beans, and tart pickled onions…like a French dip sandwich, but with a spicy personality. The carnitas was tender and delicious, but it was difficult to distinguish its flavor amidst the intensely hot chile sauce.


An hour and a half later, our buzzer finally went off for our table at Frontera Grill. It was a lovely evening, so I was pleased to get a table on the patio. We started off with their special Mezcal margarita (YUM!) and ordered an array of items.

Tostaditas (warm tortilla chips with garlic & three-chile salsa and roasted tomatillo & serrano salsa) – the chips were good, but there was nothing special about the salsas. They tasted surprisingly similar and kind of watered down. If a restaurant is going to charge for chips and salsa, it should taste better than this.

Coctel de Callos de Hacha con Melon y Morita (ceviche of Viking Village scallops, Nichols Farm melon, Frontera rooftop tomatoes, lime and smoky morita chiles) – this ceviche really highlighted the plumpness and sweetness of the scallops. The melon toned down the acidity of the ceviche, making it more soft and elegant, but there was still enough heat to give it a kick.

Tamal de Elote (sweet corn tamales, grilled knob onions, crema, homemade queso fresco) – the fresh corn flavor was so sweet and vibrant in the tamales. The soft cheese added a slight savoriness, but this dish could have easily been a nice dessert.
Enchiladas de Mole Poblano (Gunthorp free-range chicken rolled in home-made tortillas with with Mexico’s most famous mole) – B and I have been dying to try this mole ever since we saw Bayless make it on TV. And I’m happy to report that the mole was outstanding…slightly sweet with lots of heat, tang, earthiness, and depth. Unfortunately it couldn’t make up for the dry, overcooked chicken, which was exacerbated by the dense, chewy tortillas. I did enjoy the side of black beans though – tasted like refried black beans, only much more savory and delectable.
To sum it up, both XOCO and Frontera Grill deliver lots of bold, in-your-face flavors and spices in a wide variety of Mexican dishes. I had REALLY high expectations for Frontera Grill (perhaps maybe too high). Although the food was good, it wasn't at the level I had expected…and definitely not worth waiting over an hour for. Way too much hype. My recommendation would be to skip the wait at Frontera and eat at XOCO instead.

BITE METER: XOCO – 3.7 bites (out of 5)
BITE METER: Frontera Grill – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

August 28, 2010

Blackbird – Tasty Three Course Lunch for $22

With so many great restaurants and only 2 days in Chicago, it was difficult to decide which places I should eat at during this trip. Chef Paul Kahan has been recognized as one of the city’s top chefs, so I wanted to try one of his restaurants (Blackbird, Avec, The Publican). Ultimately, I chose Blackbird because of their $22 three course pre-fixe lunch…what a fantastic deal!

Since this was only be beginning of many meals to come, I wanted to keep lunch *relatively* light. So B and I split one of the pre-fixe lunches and ordered an extra entrée to share (the pork belly sandwich was calling my name).

Wood-grilled Octopus Confit with Pickled Ramps, Baby Romaine, Candied Red Onion – the presentation of the octopus was unique…almost like it had been congealed into a block of terrine, then sliced. The octopus was tender and delicate, although I would have liked some char to give it more flavor/smokiness. The candied red onion and pickled ramps were a nice complement.
Sous-vide Lamb with Lime Onions, Tamarind, Smoked Cucumbers – the lamb was beautifully cooked, really moist and tender. Although the other components had sounded interesting, they didn’t quite taste right with the lamb.
Organic Pork Belly and Cabbage Slaw Sandwich with Winter Vegetable Salad and Garlic Frites – the sandwich was scrumptious. All the elements were perfectly balanced...salty and fatty pork belly, acidity and crunch of the slaw, warm toasted bread. The fries, on the other hand, were a disappointment. They were soggy and no garlic was to be found.
Fried Polenta with Klug Farms Blueberries, Lemon Verbena, Smoked Brown Sugar Ice Cream – I loooooooved the flavors and textures of this dessert. Sweet, fruity, salty, smoky, starchy, creamy, crunchy…combined to make *the* most incredible bite. B said it reminded him of smoked blueberry pie (will have to figure out where to get one of those). I’ve never had polenta as part of dessert before, and it worked so well that I hope to find it in more!
Although there were a few missteps, I'd still recommend lunch at Blackbird. Good service, well executed proteins, and their fried polenta dessert was phenomenal (a MUST if you dine here). And of course, you really can’t beat their 3 course lunch for only $22.

BITE METER: Blackbird – 3.5 bites (out of 5)