Since there wasn’t even room at the bar at Frontera, we decided to get a “snack” at Bayless’ new Mexican street food restaurant next door, XOCO, while we waited. If Bayless’ celebrated mole hadn’t looked so damned good on Top Chef Masters, I would’ve skipped Frontera all together and gotten my fill at XOCO. (You may have noticed that patience is not one of my virtues.)
XOCO is a very casual restaurant. You stand in line to order your food, and there are a few small tables inside and outside available for seating. The menu is primarily composed of tortas (sandwiches) and caldos (hearty soups). B and I ordered the Ahogada since the cashier told us it was one of their specialties, and it was a cross between a torta and a caldo…
Ahogada (golden pork carnitas, black bean, and pickled onion sandwich in a tomato broth with spicy arbol chile sauce) – a fiery explosion of flavor in my mouth! I enjoyed the contrast of the crunchy bread with the spicy tomato broth, creamy black beans, and tart pickled onions…like a French dip sandwich, but with a spicy personality. The carnitas was tender and delicious, but it was difficult to distinguish its flavor amidst the intensely hot chile sauce.
An hour and a half later, our buzzer finally went off for our table at Frontera Grill. It was a lovely evening, so I was pleased to get a table on the patio. We started off with their special Mezcal margarita (YUM!) and ordered an array of items.
Tostaditas (warm tortilla chips with garlic & three-chile salsa and roasted tomatillo & serrano salsa) – the chips were good, but there was nothing special about the salsas. They tasted surprisingly similar and kind of watered down. If a restaurant is going to charge for chips and salsa, it should taste better than this.
Coctel de Callos de Hacha con Melon y Morita (ceviche of Viking Village scallops, Nichols Farm melon, Frontera rooftop tomatoes, lime and smoky morita chiles) – this ceviche really highlighted the plumpness and sweetness of the scallops. The melon toned down the acidity of the ceviche, making it more soft and elegant, but there was still enough heat to give it a kick.
Tamal de Elote (sweet corn tamales, grilled knob onions, crema, homemade queso fresco) – the fresh corn flavor was so sweet and vibrant in the tamales. The soft cheese added a slight savoriness, but this dish could have easily been a nice dessert.
Enchiladas de Mole Poblano (Gunthorp free-range chicken rolled in home-made tortillas with with Mexico’s most famous mole) – B and I have been dying to try this mole ever since we saw Bayless make it on TV. And I’m happy to report that the mole was outstanding…slightly sweet with lots of heat, tang, earthiness, and depth. Unfortunately it couldn’t make up for the dry, overcooked chicken, which was exacerbated by the dense, chewy tortillas. I did enjoy the side of black beans though – tasted like refried black beans, only much more savory and delectable.
To sum it up, both XOCO and Frontera Grill deliver lots of bold, in-your-face flavors and spices in a wide variety of Mexican dishes. I had REALLY high expectations for Frontera Grill (perhaps maybe too high). Although the food was good, it wasn't at the level I had expected…and definitely not worth waiting over an hour for. Way too much hype. My recommendation would be to skip the wait at Frontera and eat at XOCO instead.
BITE METER: XOCO – 3.7 bites (out of 5)
BITE METER: Frontera Grill – 3.5 bites (out of 5)
Both the chicken and carnitas were excellent – moist and layered with flavor. Not too salty or greasy either. The beef short rib was a bit too dry, so I wouldn’t recommend it. I also really liked avocado sauce they serve with the tacos – adds a smooth, creamy element.
Seafood Sopes – The star of this dish was the rich seafood sauce of the shrimps, scallops, and green peppers. It captured the sweet essence of the sea, and was balanced by the pepper aioli. The red cabbage slaw was also a great complement.
Seared Scallops – The citrus fennel sauce looks like it’s going to be heavy, but it was light and refreshing. The slices of cucumber under the scallops also accentuated the coolness of the dish.
Duck Confit Tacos – A twist on Peking duck. I liked how thin the corn tortillas were and how they came out fresh and hot. The shredded duck was really oily, but it had good flavor.
Octopus Carpaccio – I can’t help but laugh when I think about this dish. The octopus is sliced so thin that it’s virtually invisible (especially under the dim lighting of the front room). So when this dish came out, we thought it was just a sauce and sat waiting for the rest of the dish to come out. The person who brought our food didn’t speak English, so he just shrugged when we asked what it was. Finally, our waiter told us it was the octopus carpaccio and the octopus was already on the plate. So funny! The pepper flakes overpowered the octopus, so I couldn't taste much beyond pepper and smoke.
Pistachio Encrusted Salmon – The wasabi cream and unagi sauce gave this dish an interesting Asian flair. The flavors worked well, and it came out at the perfect temperature -- hot and crispy on the outside while nicely rare on the inside.
We also had the baked brie, the heirloom tomato salad with feta mousse, and the chocolate fondue for dessert. They were good, but not particularly memorable. I also want to mention their reasonably priced wine list. The average price per bottle was about $40. We enjoyed a bottle of the Chateau de Tours, Cote du Rhone.
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