Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.

Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Benu – Transforming Asian Concepts into Pure Luxury

I first experienced Chef Corey Lee’s culinary talents while he was working under the helm of Thomas Keller at French Laundry. At the ripe age of 28, he became French Laundry’s chef de cuisine and deemed a wunderkind of the restaurant world. So ever since I heard Lee was branching out to create his own restaurant, I’ve been anxiously awaiting the opening of Benu.

And I must say that the food at Benu totally captured my heart. Chef Lee took many Asian comfort foods and elevated them to a completely different level. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of eating at a ‘fine dining’ restaurant while also being embraced by the comforts and memories of home and my family with his food. The chef’s tasting menu showcased a multitude of flavors, textures, and techniques…

1000 Year Old Quail Egg – a remake of the classic Chinese preserved duck egg, Chef Lee refined it by using quail egg instead and adding slices of ginger and green onion. To me, the yolk is the best part of preserved eggs, so the small quail egg didn’t have enough of that pungent, creamy yolk to counter the bland, gelatinous white exterior.
Lonsdale – fun and delicate. The large green bubble burst in my mouth, filling it with a cool and slightly sweet liquid of green apple. A bit of gin balanced the sweetness, and basil gave it an herbal finish. This reminded me of the ‘mojito bubble’ that I had at minibar…I’m loving this trend of cocktails in a bite!
Sea Urchin & Almond Tofu, Caviar, Sparkling Grape – the almond tofu was a bit too thick, but its milky, nuttiness accentuated the sweetness of the creamy sea urchin inside. All nicely balanced with the salty pearls of caviar and the acidity of the sparkling grape foam.
Spanish Mackerel, Pain de Mie – incredible. I love, love, LOVED this dish! The fish was cooked between two thin slices of crispy bread, but it looked like one seamless piece (almost like pork belly). I was swooning over the moist, meaty fish with its salty, garlicky crust…perfectly balanced by the dehydrated slivers of lemon. The flavors and textures were similar to fried fish, but so much more sophisticated. I’m already planning on coming back for this dish on the a la carte menu...it’s *that* good!
Eel, Feuille de Brick, Crème Fraiche (right) – a playful dish with a “cigar” of wild Japanese eel wrapped in paper thin layers of crispy feuille de brick (even thinner than phyllo dough). The eel tasted similar to a white fish but more savory, and was exquisitely paired with a dip made of crème fraiche and lime salt.
Caramelized Anchovy, Peanut, Lilly Bulb (left) – not a lot of substance, but interesting experience of taste and textures…jelly cubes with a subtle anchovy flavor, tiny salted fish, crispy peanuts, and cool, fresh petals of lily bulb.
Mountain Yam and Shrimp Soufflé (back) – Like a moist fluffy cake, but more starchy and with a subtle shrimp flavor…reminded me of the Japanese tamago.
Monkfish Liver Torchon, Brioche – one of my absolute favorites! This was very similar in style and technique to the foie gras torchon I had at French Laundry, although the use of monkfish liver (instead of duck liver) made it much lighter with soft sweet undertones. Creamy, luscious liver spread over a warm, buttery brioche…sexy, elegant, and rich all at once. I even licked my knife to make sure I got every last bit!
“Shark’s Fin” Soup, Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Custard – such genius! The custom-made bowl held a thin layer of silky, black truffle custard at the bottom, which was covered by a warm dashi (fish broth), faux strands of “shark fin” made of gelatin, and sweet, succulent pieces of crab…sooooo sumptuous and delicious! I would have never thought of truffles with Asian food, especially something as traditional as shark fin soup, but I was floored by how good this dish was. The black truffle added a whole new dimension to the soup.
Pumpkin Porridge, Lobster, Black Truffle – again, Chef Lee demonstrates his creativity with Asian cuisine by taking something as humble as rice porridge and turning it into something so luxurious. I loved the sweetness of the pumpkin and lobster against the distinct earthiness of the truffles. I also appreciated having warm, comforting courses (soup and porridge) in the tasting menu – it goes down so easily and is especially soothing after drinking lots of wine.
Eight Treasure Duck – like a duck sausage filled with a bunch of indistinguishable components. I mainly tasted the salty duck with a bit of honey-like sweetness. Not bad, not great.
Beef Rib Cap, Matsutake Mushroom – most disappointing dish of the evening. After being pampered by such lavish dishes, I was expecting melt-in-your mouth beef. Instead, this was dry and chewy. Our waitress explained that the firm consistency was normal for this particular cut – my suggestion would be to serve a different cut. (Note: she did offer to get me something else when she noticed I hardly touched my beef, but I declined since I was getting full. At least the matsutake mushrooms were prepared well.)
Huckleberry Sorbet, Yogurt, Lemon Curd, Vanilla Sponge – the huckleberry was tart and vibrant, tasted like a mix of strawberry and blueberry. Fruity and refreshing on my palate.
Chestnut Custard, Cranberry, Mace Ice Cream – the chestnut and mace (similar to nutmeg) flavors reminded me of the holidays and made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. A great dessert for the fall season.
Petit Fours – delectable chocolates cleverly encased inside a sleek wooden cube
There were a couple of misses on the tasting menu, but the high points more than made up for them. Next time, I’m going to order off Benu’s a la carte menu since it also featured some of my favorites from the tasting menu (I especially loved the seafood dishes). I also appreciated the thought and creativity that went into the design of the ceramics and plates.

The only thing I didn’t particularly care for about the restaurant was its bland interior. It had a cold, unfinished feel with the high ceilings and beams, sharp angles, and the almost all white décor. The service also lacked warmth, but was very polite and attentive. With a little more tweaking and finesse, Benu could be something magnificent. The restaurant has a lot of potential, and I look forward to the continued growth of Chef Lee’s career.

BITE METER: Benu – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Kauai Grill – Lost in Transit

Kauai Grill is celebrated Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first restaurant in Hawaii. I’ve been to many of his restaurants around the world and feasted on some incredible meals (especially at his signature restaurant in New York). However, I find that Jean-Georges’ vision seems to get lost on his island outposts. As with my experience at his restaurant in Bora Bora, I found myself disappointed with the food at Kauai Grill. It was a sloppy shadow of the Jean-Georges empire built on exciting flavors and precise techniques.

Ginger Ahi Tuna Tartar – I actually ordered this appetizer from the bar while watching the sunset before dinner, and ironically, it was the best dish of the evening. It was refreshing yet bursting with flavor. I loved the balance of the sweet ginger with the salty soy sauce and the spicy chili oil…all enhanced by the creamy avocado. The sliced radish was a creative idea for crispy “chips” to eat with the tartar. Btw, the Jean-Georges ginger margarita cocktail was AWESOME with this (as well as on its own!)

Black Bean Braised Octopus – while I liked the strong taste of the fermented black bean sauce with the tender octopus, the octopus was way too salty to thoroughly enjoy. This dish would have been so much better had they not killed it with salt and balanced it with more acidity.
Seed & Nut Crusted Moi in Brown Butter Emulsion – as you can see, this dish did not look very appetizing…way too much brown on the plate and reminded me of something I did NOT want to be thinking about at the dinner table! Unfortunately, it didn’t taste very good either. The fish was mushy despite the seed crust, and the flavors were flat and uninteresting.
Butter-Poached Kona Lobster with Artichoke Hearts and Yuzu Aioli – the lobster was cooked to perfection…sweet and succulent with a delicate buttery flavor. However, the accompanying components were all wrong with the lobster. The yuzu aioli was too heavy, especially since the lobster was already poached in butter, and the bland artichoke hearts were a strange pairing with the lobster. I wished they had added something bright or more complex to complement the lobster.
Bruléed Banana Bread with Caramel Ice Cream – the banana bread was a little dry, but had nice flavor and tasted good with the caramel ice cream.

To sum it up, the food wasn’t bad, but it still needs refinement and didn’t live up to the Jean-Georges name. The dining room also lacked personality. It felt hollow and out of place for Kauai with its flashy decor of red lights and large swanky booths. The service was also quite amateur. Our waiter was slow, inattentive, and wasn't knowledgeable on the wines or food. Even the hotel’s other restaurant had more proficient waiters.

Based on my experience, I’d recommend ordering the restaurant’s tuna tartar and the Jean-Georges signature cocktails from the St. Regis hotel bar instead of dining at Kauai Grill. The atmosphere on the bar’s terrace is much more open and pleasant. [Tip: If you do decide to eat at the Kauai Grill, make sure to request a table by the window with your reservation. Like every other place inside the St. Regis, the views are gorgeous.]

BITE METER: Kauai Grill – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

Ginger Park – A Painful Brunch

After my great Southeast Asian-inspired brunch at Double Crown in NY, I had hoped my brunch at Ginger Park would be just as enjoyable since they draw from similar concepts. Unfortunately, that was as far the similarities went between the two restaurants. My brunch at Ginger Park was a train wreck. The service was horrible, and the food was mediocre at best. The only thing interesting about Ginger Park was the interior – it’s like being inside of a whale skeleton.

I can’t recall the last time that I’ve had service this bad (thank goodness). It took forever for a waiter to greet us. Then I had to wait 15 minutes for my green tea, and it was overseeped and way too bitter when it finally came out. If you’re not going to give me my own tea bag and bring it out pre-made in a cup, then at least make it correctly (but really, how do you mess up green tea?!). It took so long that I didn’t even bother asking for another one. We also had to ask for cream for my husband’s coffee multiple times from various people before it was finally brought out. On top of this, our orders also didn’t come out correctly…ridiculous! The restaurant was less than half full, so I know the poor service wasn’t due to them being busy. Is it possible that the *entire* staff was hungover from the previous night?

Thai Beef & Green Papaya Salad, Lemongrass Caramel Dressing – the flavors weren’t bad, but the texture was all wrong. The green papaya wasn’t fresh, so it was rubbery instead of haven that firm crunch.

Duck Confit Hash, Two Eggs & Green Onion Sauce - the egg was supposed to be over-easy, but was served overcooked instead. This dish was really greasy, but at least the duck tasted good.

Asian Pulled Pork Sandwich with Home-Made Chips – these potato chips were atrocious! Instead of being crispy, it tasted as if they’d been soaking in salt water - they were extremely soggy and oversalted. I never knew potato chips could taste gross, but apparently they can at Ginger Park. When I asked our waiter if this was the way the chips were supposed to be, he replied, “Yes, because they’re home-made”. Since when did “home-made” become an excuse for “horrible”?! I thought it meant made with care. Anyways, the pulled pork sandwich was decent and the meat was moist, but that’s about it.
I did not even look at the dessert menu here. Had to get out of this place…PRONTO!

BITE METER: Ginger Park – 1.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Double Crown - Mmmm...Daikon Fries

There are two words I want to leave you with about Double Crown…daikon fries…daikon fries…daikon fries!! Indeed everything is better fried, and it's epitomized by Double Crown’s daikon fries. Less like slices of the actual daikon root, and more like thick fried cuts of the daikon/radish cake served at Chinese dim sum…warm, starchy center surrounded by a salty crust, and coated with a spicy sriracha mayonnaise…PERFECTION!
Another reason to have brunch at Double Crown is their specials:
$20 – cocktail, entrée, and coffee/tea
$32 – all you can drink Bloody Mary’s, entrée, and coffee/tea (they have a fun DIY Bloody Mary Bar with all the fixings you could possibly think of and more…like Vietnamese fish sauce!)
The restaurant’s cuisine is inspired by the British colonization of Southeast Asia; hence the name Double Crown. The cocktails are also creative and quite tasty (like the Anjou Pear & Darjeeling Fizz).

Spicy beef salad with pickled green mango – exactly what I was hoping this dish would be…tender slices of beef tossed with tart and spicy strands of green mango. Great texture and in-your-face bold flavors.
Crispy pork belly with chili caramel, mint, and fried egg on steamed rice – my mouth was watering when I saw this dish on the menu. It sounded incredible, but they totally missed it on the execution…the pork belly was dry and overcooked (a sad day for pork belly!), and the chili caramel sauce was too faint.
Sambal prawns with scrambled eggs, tomatoes, and avocado – the flavors and components came together really well in this dish…sweet, smoky prawns, creamy avocado, savory eggs, and just enough acidity from the tomatoes.
Lively atmosphere, interesting food, reasonable prices…and most importantly, their daikon fries!

BITE METER: Double Crown – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

Loló restaurant – Lovin’ La Vida Loló

I was supposed to have dinner at Minako, but was greeted by a ‘closed for vacation’ sign upon arrival. So we walked around San Francisco's Mission district in search of something else to satisfy our appetites. Since Loló was on my list of restaurants to check out, we decided to give it a try. To my delight, it was full of unexpected surprises!

Loló is a tiny place (I later discovered a whole other room with a bar that’s hidden by a dark opening in the back). It has a fun and quirky vibe with a bit of retro mixed in – large metal spoons covering one wall, seagulls and motorcycle mirrors on another. And one thing you should definitely do is visit the bathroom (never thought I would say that). I was expecting a small, dark bathroom given the size of the front room. Let’s just say it’s not…

The food is also much more unique and has a broader range of flavors than traditional tapas restaurants. The flavors were bold and bright. I would describe the cuisine as New Latin American with an Asian and Mediterranean influence. The vibrant array of colors in the dishes also made the food as appealing to the eye as it was for the taste buds. [Note: I didn’t have my camera and had to use my phone, so these photos do NO justice to the food. The dishes actually look MUCH more appetizing than they appear in these horrible cameraphone pictures.]

We ordered 9 different dishes, and my favorites were the Tacos Tropical and the Seafood Sope. They were INCREDIBLE!

Tacos Tropical - Damn good shrimp tacos! The crispy panko crust of the shrimp, the zest of the tropical relish, and the creaminess of the chipotle aioli…together created a wonderful explosion of flavors and textures in my mouth.
Seafood Sopes – The star of this dish was the rich seafood sauce of the shrimps, scallops, and green peppers. It captured the sweet essence of the sea, and was balanced by the pepper aioli. The red cabbage slaw was also a great complement.
Seared Scallops – The citrus fennel sauce looks like it’s going to be heavy, but it was light and refreshing. The slices of cucumber under the scallops also accentuated the coolness of the dish.
Duck Confit Tacos – A twist on Peking duck. I liked how thin the corn tortillas were and how they came out fresh and hot. The shredded duck was really oily, but it had good flavor.
Octopus Carpaccio – I can’t help but laugh when I think about this dish. The octopus is sliced so thin that it’s virtually invisible (especially under the dim lighting of the front room). So when this dish came out, we thought it was just a sauce and sat waiting for the rest of the dish to come out. The person who brought our food didn’t speak English, so he just shrugged when we asked what it was. Finally, our waiter told us it was the octopus carpaccio and the octopus was already on the plate. So funny! The pepper flakes overpowered the octopus, so I couldn't taste much beyond pepper and smoke.
Pistachio Encrusted Salmon – The wasabi cream and unagi sauce gave this dish an interesting Asian flair. The flavors worked well, and it came out at the perfect temperature -- hot and crispy on the outside while nicely rare on the inside.
We also had the baked brie, the heirloom tomato salad with feta mousse, and the chocolate fondue for dessert. They were good, but not particularly memorable. I also want to mention their reasonably priced wine list. The average price per bottle was about $40. We enjoyed a bottle of the Chateau de Tours, Cote du Rhone.

Although we ate a ton of food and had dessert, we still headed over to Bi-Rite Creamery for ice cream after dinner (oink, oink!). It was in the neighborhood and I’ve heard so much hype about it. When we arrived, there was a line that extended down the block and around the corner. I thought to myself 'this ice cream better be amazing' if I’m going to wait in this long line. Fortunately, the line moved relatively quickly and the ice cream was delicious! They had an impressive selection of creative flavors – I must have tried about 10 different ones between the sampling and our carefully coordinated orders. Their celebrated salted caramel ice cream was already sold out, but I didn’t feel like I was missing out because I enjoyed the other flavors so much. My favorites of the night include the brown sugar with ginger caramel swirl, the roasted banana, and the malted vanilla with peanut brittle and milk chocolate pieces. (The only flavor that I didn’t like was the mint chip – it had a strong menthol taste). I also appreciate that Bi-Rite uses local and organic ingredients.

Do I think Bi-Rite is better than Mitchell’s Ice Cream? It’s a very tough call...Bi-Rite's flavors are more gourmet and unique, but I like Mitchell’s just a tinsy bit more because their ice cream is creamier and has a more home-made feel to it. However, both places offer such a completely different variety of flavors that my recommendation would be to choose the place based on what type of flavor you’re craving that day. You can’t go wrong with either place!

BITE METER:
Loló – 4.0 bites (out of 5)
Bi-Rite Creamery – 4.5 bites (out of 5)

Sensing - Celebrity Name But No Personality

I went to Sensing yesterday for Boston Restaurant Week. I was hoping this place would be good since it is associated with Chef Guy Martin (of the famed Grand Vefour in Paris), but I was also skeptical since 'satellite' restaurants of celebrity chefs are often disappointing shells, lacking the personality and brilliance of their creators. Unfortunately, my skeptism was correct.

Walking in, I immediately *felt* like I was in a hotel restaurant. Yes, Sensing is inside of a hotel, but given the starpower behind the restaurant, they should have been able to invest more in the decor. It felt like I was in a cheesy Ikea imitation of a nice restaurant. The funny thing was that bathrooms (located outside of the restaurant) felt nicer than the restaurant! Maybe that's a testament to quality of The Fairmont Hotel, however, you'd think they would set standards for the restaurants inside their hotel.

I started with an heirloom tomato salad topped with caramelized pine nuts and a basil-ginger dressing. I love heirloom tomatoes, and this salad made me very happy. The flavors were well balanced - the sweetness of the caramelized pine nuts offset the acidity from the tomatoes. The fresh basil also added another layer of depth to the flavors. The various tastes and textures all complemented one another.

For my entree, I had the pan fried halibut over mussels, chorizo, shiitake and cranberry beans with a preserved lemon vinaigrette drizzled on top. Our waitress also gave me this big bowl of broth with cherry tomatoes and tofu. Oddly, she couldn't really tell me what to do with it, so I just assumed I was supposed to pour it on top of my dish. The fish could have been cooked slightly less, but I was satisfied with my dish overall. The chorizo and cranberry beans gave the dish a hearty feel, while the lemon vinaigrette brightened it up. I'm glad I poured the broth over my dish, otherwise the fish and other components would have tasted too dry.

B ordered the cod steamed in lemongrass with seasonal vegetables in a coconut-grapefruit foam. Our waitress said it was the restaurant's "signature" dish and stays on their menu year-round, but I call it a 'disaster' dish. The entire thing was completely overcooked - the cod was dry and flavorless, the vegetables were wilted and rubbery. I am shocked that they would boast about this dish. Maybe they cook so many of these dishes that they no longer pay attention to it...who knows.

I had a financier cake with an assortment of sorbets for dessert. This was my worst course of the night, and a rare occassion in which I did not finish every bite of my dessert. The financier cake tasted like stale almond cake. The "sorbets" (which were actually gelatos) were just ok - the strawberry was nice and refreshing, the cookies and cream was mediocre, and the lime was just weird. The waitress told me the lime sorbet was coconut, yet it was green, tasted like lime, and had no resemblance of coconut. Although staff was nice, they didn't know very much about the food and lacked professionalism - the waitress actually walked away from the table next to us while they were ordering their wine in mid-sentence! The service was quite clumsy and definitely nothing like what you would expect from a 'nice' restaurant.

BITE METER: Sensing - 2.0 bites (out of 5)