Kauai Grill – Lost in Transit

Kauai Grill is celebrated Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first restaurant in Hawaii. I’ve been to many of his restaurants around the world and feasted on some incredible meals (especially at his signature restaurant in New York). However, I find that Jean-Georges’ vision seems to get lost on his island outposts. As with my experience at his restaurant in Bora Bora, I found myself disappointed with the food at Kauai Grill. It was a sloppy shadow of the Jean-Georges empire built on exciting flavors and precise techniques.

Ginger Ahi Tuna Tartar – I actually ordered this appetizer from the bar while watching the sunset before dinner, and ironically, it was the best dish of the evening. It was refreshing yet bursting with flavor. I loved the balance of the sweet ginger with the salty soy sauce and the spicy chili oil…all enhanced by the creamy avocado. The sliced radish was a creative idea for crispy “chips” to eat with the tartar. Btw, the Jean-Georges ginger margarita cocktail was AWESOME with this (as well as on its own!)

Black Bean Braised Octopus – while I liked the strong taste of the fermented black bean sauce with the tender octopus, the octopus was way too salty to thoroughly enjoy. This dish would have been so much better had they not killed it with salt and balanced it with more acidity.
Seed & Nut Crusted Moi in Brown Butter Emulsion – as you can see, this dish did not look very appetizing…way too much brown on the plate and reminded me of something I did NOT want to be thinking about at the dinner table! Unfortunately, it didn’t taste very good either. The fish was mushy despite the seed crust, and the flavors were flat and uninteresting.
Butter-Poached Kona Lobster with Artichoke Hearts and Yuzu Aioli – the lobster was cooked to perfection…sweet and succulent with a delicate buttery flavor. However, the accompanying components were all wrong with the lobster. The yuzu aioli was too heavy, especially since the lobster was already poached in butter, and the bland artichoke hearts were a strange pairing with the lobster. I wished they had added something bright or more complex to complement the lobster.
Bruléed Banana Bread with Caramel Ice Cream – the banana bread was a little dry, but had nice flavor and tasted good with the caramel ice cream.

To sum it up, the food wasn’t bad, but it still needs refinement and didn’t live up to the Jean-Georges name. The dining room also lacked personality. It felt hollow and out of place for Kauai with its flashy decor of red lights and large swanky booths. The service was also quite amateur. Our waiter was slow, inattentive, and wasn't knowledgeable on the wines or food. Even the hotel’s other restaurant had more proficient waiters.

Based on my experience, I’d recommend ordering the restaurant’s tuna tartar and the Jean-Georges signature cocktails from the St. Regis hotel bar instead of dining at Kauai Grill. The atmosphere on the bar’s terrace is much more open and pleasant. [Tip: If you do decide to eat at the Kauai Grill, make sure to request a table by the window with your reservation. Like every other place inside the St. Regis, the views are gorgeous.]

BITE METER: Kauai Grill – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

ABC Kitchen - The Basics with a Jean Georges Touch

ABC Kitchen is Chef Jean Georges’ newest restaurant (making this his 9th in New York). Following California’s organic farm-to-table movement, I had expected ABC Kitchen to be good, but didn’t think it would stand out from many similar restaurants in San Francisco. I’m glad I was wrong.

The food was straightforward and rustic, but still exuded Jean Georges’ talent and mastery of flavors. I was impressed by how incredible the simplest things (like carrots!) tasted. I had been gorging myself with so much food during this New York trip that I wasn’t hungry at dinnertime, but the food was so good here that I couldn’t help but to stuff myself some more…

Peekytoe Crab Toast – this could not have been better! The crab was really fresh with just a bit of dressing to enhance its sweetness, while the dill gave it some bite. The grilled bread also had a nice crunch and smokiness.

Roasted Carrot and Avocado Salad with Crunchy Seeds and Citrus – ok, I’m not one to get excited about carrots, but these carrots were AMAZING!! Best.carrots.ever. They had so much depth and flavor, brought out by the light curry rub. All of the components of this salad tasted beautiful together, especially with zing of the sour cream. My favorite dish of the night!
Clam, Mint, and Parsley Pizza – this is the type of dish that I usually associate Jean Georges with…creative, and a fusion of exciting flavors and styles. I really enjoyed this whole wheat pizza – it wasn’t grainy or bland (as whole wheat pizzas can be), yet was still light and a treat for the taste buds…plump, savory clams and a spicy punch from the chili peppers.

Wood Oven Roasted Maine Lobster with Oregano and Lemon Vinaigrette – I had ordered this entrée because I was still jonesing for lobster after tasting N’s lobster at Le Bernardin. Although it was interesting to have a more rustic preparation of lobster and the wood oven gave the lobster a unique smokiness, I probably wouldn’t order this dish again. It tasted good, but lacked the sweetness and succulence that I love so much in lobster.
Salted Caramel-Peanut Ice Cream Sundae with Candied Popcorn, Whipped Crème Fraiche, Chocolate Sauce – now this is my kind of ice cream sundae! Fun and decadent, yet elevated to a new level by the sophisticated combination of flavors and textures. Loooooooved that salted caramel-peanut ice cream! I also adored the handmade porcelain bowl it was served in (they had lots of charming, vintage-inspired dinnerware).
In addition to the delicious food, ABC Kitchen also had great service and a unique vibe. I liked the contrast of its simple white furniture and white brick walls with the exposed wooden beams throughout the restaurant. It was modern and minimalist, yet still incorporated natural elements and felt inviting. Oh, and the restaurant is located inside a furniture store, although it definitely did not feel like it!

BITE METER: ABC Kitchen – 4.3 bites (out of 5)

Market by Jean Georges – Come for the Crispy Clams

I had lunch at the new Market by Jean Georges in Boston. The restaurant was much smaller than I expected since it was inside the W Hotel. The large windows filled the restaurant with natural light, but the décor lacked character. It felt a bit one-dimensional, like it was trying too hard to be modern. However, it didn’t really matter since my attention was on the great food and thoughtful service.

Cherry-Yuzu Soda – this house-made soda was terrific. I loved the flavor combination. It was sweet, but not too sugary, and refreshing with just the right amount of tartness from the yuzu.

Crispy Clams, Basil Salt, Sweet Chili Dipping Sauce – AMAZING fried clams! They were meaty, flavorful, and perfectly crispy on the outside…and oh-so-good with the frothy sweet chili sauce. This dish epitomizes Jean Georges’ style – a mix of bold flavors, always playfully contrasting sweet, spicy, savory, and sour tastes. The mossy green color from the basil salt also provided a unique and intriguing presentation.
Cod, Miso-Yuzu Broth, Shimeji Mushrooms, & Side of Wild Rice – not the most attractive plating, but a nice harmony of flavors…the delicate cod, the clean and subtle broth, and wholesomeness of the wild rice and mushrooms. This dish tasted good, and also felt nourishing and healthy.
Soy Glazed Short Ribs, Rosemary Crumbs, Apple-Jalapeno Puree – my least favorite dish. Although the combination of ingredients was interesting, the flavors didn’t really shine. There wasn’t a lot of taste in the apple-jalapeno puree, so it was like eating an ordinary short rib with apple slices…not bad, but not great either.
Passion Fruit Soufflé – recommended by our waiter, I was a little weary of this dessert because passion fruit is often too intense and tart, but he steered us in the right direction. The soufflé was light and airy, and the passion fruit sauce was bright with just enough sugar to keep it from being too tart.

I didn’t come to Market expecting it to be as mind blowing as the Jean Georges flagship restaurant in New York (nor as expensive), but I did expect it to have a certain level of quality and follow a similar approach to food, and Market did not disappoint.

BITE METER: Market by Jean Georges – 3.7 bites (out of 5.0)