Wood Tavern – Already Wanting to Return

During a spontaneous visit to Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, I randomly decided to have lunch at Wood Tavern. What a wonderful surprise it turned out to be! I thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant’s scrumptious food and warm Californian bistro/bar atmosphere.

Peach & Burratta with Prosciutto di Parma – I loved the soft and luscious burratta cheese with the sweet peaches and salty prosciutto. Everything tasted so fresh, and the flavors of each component shined. The dish didn’t even need the balsamic vinegar.

“Surf N’ Turf” Sandwich (Oregon sweet shrimp, prosciutto di parma, English cucumber, garlic aioli) – the flavors were great with the interplay of sweet shrimp with cool, crisp cucumber and rich prosciutto. However, the bread was too thick and was too hard to get through, overpowering the delicate components inside. The bread had a nice crunchy texture and would have been better served as an open-faced sandwich. I was surprised by how much I liked their bright and zesty Tavern slaw (I usually detest coleslaw!)
Fresh Pappardelle with Okra, Sweet Corn, Zucchini – absolutely delightful! The pasta was PERFECTION. Everything was beautifully cooked. The vegetables tasted fresh and light, while the sauce also felt hearty. I couldn’t get enough of this dish.
Wood Tavern is a fantastic neighborhood restaurant, and I’ll definitely be back even though it’s not my neighborhood. Heck, I was already talking about what I wanted to eat next time before I even left the restaurant! Now that’s a sign of a quality place with an enticing menu.

BITE METER: Wood Tavern – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Benu – Transforming Asian Concepts into Pure Luxury

I first experienced Chef Corey Lee’s culinary talents while he was working under the helm of Thomas Keller at French Laundry. At the ripe age of 28, he became French Laundry’s chef de cuisine and deemed a wunderkind of the restaurant world. So ever since I heard Lee was branching out to create his own restaurant, I’ve been anxiously awaiting the opening of Benu.

And I must say that the food at Benu totally captured my heart. Chef Lee took many Asian comfort foods and elevated them to a completely different level. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of eating at a ‘fine dining’ restaurant while also being embraced by the comforts and memories of home and my family with his food. The chef’s tasting menu showcased a multitude of flavors, textures, and techniques…

1000 Year Old Quail Egg – a remake of the classic Chinese preserved duck egg, Chef Lee refined it by using quail egg instead and adding slices of ginger and green onion. To me, the yolk is the best part of preserved eggs, so the small quail egg didn’t have enough of that pungent, creamy yolk to counter the bland, gelatinous white exterior.
Lonsdale – fun and delicate. The large green bubble burst in my mouth, filling it with a cool and slightly sweet liquid of green apple. A bit of gin balanced the sweetness, and basil gave it an herbal finish. This reminded me of the ‘mojito bubble’ that I had at minibar…I’m loving this trend of cocktails in a bite!
Sea Urchin & Almond Tofu, Caviar, Sparkling Grape – the almond tofu was a bit too thick, but its milky, nuttiness accentuated the sweetness of the creamy sea urchin inside. All nicely balanced with the salty pearls of caviar and the acidity of the sparkling grape foam.
Spanish Mackerel, Pain de Mie – incredible. I love, love, LOVED this dish! The fish was cooked between two thin slices of crispy bread, but it looked like one seamless piece (almost like pork belly). I was swooning over the moist, meaty fish with its salty, garlicky crust…perfectly balanced by the dehydrated slivers of lemon. The flavors and textures were similar to fried fish, but so much more sophisticated. I’m already planning on coming back for this dish on the a la carte menu...it’s *that* good!
Eel, Feuille de Brick, Crème Fraiche (right) – a playful dish with a “cigar” of wild Japanese eel wrapped in paper thin layers of crispy feuille de brick (even thinner than phyllo dough). The eel tasted similar to a white fish but more savory, and was exquisitely paired with a dip made of crème fraiche and lime salt.
Caramelized Anchovy, Peanut, Lilly Bulb (left) – not a lot of substance, but interesting experience of taste and textures…jelly cubes with a subtle anchovy flavor, tiny salted fish, crispy peanuts, and cool, fresh petals of lily bulb.
Mountain Yam and Shrimp Soufflé (back) – Like a moist fluffy cake, but more starchy and with a subtle shrimp flavor…reminded me of the Japanese tamago.
Monkfish Liver Torchon, Brioche – one of my absolute favorites! This was very similar in style and technique to the foie gras torchon I had at French Laundry, although the use of monkfish liver (instead of duck liver) made it much lighter with soft sweet undertones. Creamy, luscious liver spread over a warm, buttery brioche…sexy, elegant, and rich all at once. I even licked my knife to make sure I got every last bit!
“Shark’s Fin” Soup, Dungeness Crab, Black Truffle Custard – such genius! The custom-made bowl held a thin layer of silky, black truffle custard at the bottom, which was covered by a warm dashi (fish broth), faux strands of “shark fin” made of gelatin, and sweet, succulent pieces of crab…sooooo sumptuous and delicious! I would have never thought of truffles with Asian food, especially something as traditional as shark fin soup, but I was floored by how good this dish was. The black truffle added a whole new dimension to the soup.
Pumpkin Porridge, Lobster, Black Truffle – again, Chef Lee demonstrates his creativity with Asian cuisine by taking something as humble as rice porridge and turning it into something so luxurious. I loved the sweetness of the pumpkin and lobster against the distinct earthiness of the truffles. I also appreciated having warm, comforting courses (soup and porridge) in the tasting menu – it goes down so easily and is especially soothing after drinking lots of wine.
Eight Treasure Duck – like a duck sausage filled with a bunch of indistinguishable components. I mainly tasted the salty duck with a bit of honey-like sweetness. Not bad, not great.
Beef Rib Cap, Matsutake Mushroom – most disappointing dish of the evening. After being pampered by such lavish dishes, I was expecting melt-in-your mouth beef. Instead, this was dry and chewy. Our waitress explained that the firm consistency was normal for this particular cut – my suggestion would be to serve a different cut. (Note: she did offer to get me something else when she noticed I hardly touched my beef, but I declined since I was getting full. At least the matsutake mushrooms were prepared well.)
Huckleberry Sorbet, Yogurt, Lemon Curd, Vanilla Sponge – the huckleberry was tart and vibrant, tasted like a mix of strawberry and blueberry. Fruity and refreshing on my palate.
Chestnut Custard, Cranberry, Mace Ice Cream – the chestnut and mace (similar to nutmeg) flavors reminded me of the holidays and made me feel warm and fuzzy inside. A great dessert for the fall season.
Petit Fours – delectable chocolates cleverly encased inside a sleek wooden cube
There were a couple of misses on the tasting menu, but the high points more than made up for them. Next time, I’m going to order off Benu’s a la carte menu since it also featured some of my favorites from the tasting menu (I especially loved the seafood dishes). I also appreciated the thought and creativity that went into the design of the ceramics and plates.

The only thing I didn’t particularly care for about the restaurant was its bland interior. It had a cold, unfinished feel with the high ceilings and beams, sharp angles, and the almost all white décor. The service also lacked warmth, but was very polite and attentive. With a little more tweaking and finesse, Benu could be something magnificent. The restaurant has a lot of potential, and I look forward to the continued growth of Chef Lee’s career.

BITE METER: Benu – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Redd - Go for the Gianduja

To kick off 2010, B and I had lunch with friends at Redd during our wine country weekend. Redd’s décor is modern and incorporates a lot of natural elements – the dining room is filled with open windows and sunlight, while the dark grains from the wood floors and ceiling accentuate long, clean lines and contrast the white walls.

Yellowfin tuna and hamachi tartare, avocado, chili oil, fried rice – well balanced appetizer. Everything was working in harmony…the fish was fresh, the avocado was creamy, the fried rice puffs had a light crunchy texture, and the chili oil added just the right amount of heat.

Caramelized diver scallops, cauliflower purée, almonds, balsamic reduction – surprisingly, the cauliflower outshined the scallops in this dish. The cauliflower purée was light and flavorful, while the sautéed cauliflower and almonds had a lot of depth. The scallops were peppery with a good sear, but not exceptional.
Prosciutto pizza, fontina, arugula and shaved parmesan – Since the cheese wasn’t melted, they should have used larger shavings of parmesan. The pizza was messy and hard to eat as these tiny, feathery parmesan shavings went flying everywhere. Fortunately, the scrumptious prosciutto and thin, crispy crust made up for it.
Crisp duck confit, lentils, foie gras meatballs, sherry vinaigrette – my least favorite dish. The duck confit was dry and lacked that savory duck flavor. The foie gras meatballs were disappointing – the foie gras could not be tasted nor did it add any richness to the meatballs. Frankly, they tasted like Jimmy Dean sausages in meatball form. Only the lentils were flavored well.
Peanut butter & milk chocolate gianduja, peanut honeycomb parfait, malted chocolate ice cream – the highlight of the meal. Each component was incredible and perfectly executed. The gianduja was like a Kit-Kat, only a million times better! The honeycomb parfait was light with a decadent chocolate ganache at bottom. And I’m usually not a fan of chocolate ice cream, but this malted chocolate ice cream was like no other with fleur de sel and roasted peanuts. This dessert was full of complex flavors and textures, but they were all cohesive and complemented one another. I would come here again just to have this dessert.
Overall, I’d say dessert was Redd’s strong point. While the food was beautifully presented, the dishes were hit or miss and not particularly unique. And even with the reasonable prices, there are just too many other amazing restaurants in Napa for me to come back here for anything other than the gianduja dessert.


BITE METER: Redd – 3.5 bites (out of 5)

Ending 2009 at the French Laundry

Praised to be one of the best restaurants in the U.S. (if not *the* best), dining at the French Laundry always feels special. Located in the heart of Napa Valley with its own expansive garden, the restaurant has a rustic yet graceful charm. This was my third trip to the French Laundry, and it was an excellent way to celebrate the end of 2009.
Salmon Tartar Cornets – Chef Thomas Keller’s signature amuse bouche – sophisticated flavors, yet fun to eat. Buttery smoked salmon with sesame tuille. What really sets it apart from all the imitations is the subtle sweetness of the red onion crème fraiche inside.
Cauliflower “Panna Cotta” – sweet, salty, and buttery all in the same bite. The delicate caviar was like silk filled with salty bursts. Panna cotta had nice, smooth consistency, and its restrained flavor allowed caviar to shine.
Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm – light and refreshing. However, this was my least favorite course of the meal. The flavors were too understated (almost boring) and what I could taste was disjointed. The hazelnuts were overpowering, while the black truffle shavings (surprisingly) didn’t do anything for the dish - a rare instance where truffles don’t automatically make everything better!
“Foie Gras de Canard au Torchon” – absolute decadence. The foie gras was creamy with rich undertones of the liver, but still relatively light for foie. My mouth was watering as I slathered the velvety foie gras over a thick slice of warm, toasted buttered brioche. The rich flavors and textures were balanced by the acidity and sweetness of Satsuma mandarins and crunchy Sicilian pistachios. To add a little fun, the dish was accompanied by 3 different kinds of salt – grey salt, Philippine salt, Jurassic pink salt (from salt mine over 40 million years old!). It was really interesting to experience how the different salts brought out different elements of the dish and slightly changed the tastes.
Nantucket Bay Scallops “Poêlées” – a whimsical presentation of the tiny Nantucket Bay scallops with sunchokes, apricots, niçoise olives, and broccolini. The adorable scallops were unbelievably sweet…almost tasted like honey. The olives were surprisingly delicate, adding just a hint of saltiness to the scallops.
“Caesar Salad” – heavenly. The butter-poached Maine lobster “mitts” were so sweet and lusciously plump. The lobster was complemented by the leafy flavors of romaine lettuce and the sharp bite from grated Bottarga di Muggine (cured fish roe). Behind the lobster was a garlic-parmesan pain perdu, which reminded me of polenta because it was so thick and creamy.
Salmon Creek Farms Pork Belly – a sophisticated play on “pork and beans” with winter bean cassoulet and tangy tomato compote. The pork belly was incredbily soft and tender…like butter. I really enjoyed eating this dish (must be the Texan in me!). It’s a perfect example of how deconstruction can still be comforting and cohesive.
Marcho Farms Nature-fed Veal – elegant piece of veal with clean flavors and a nice, salty crust. The Chateaubriand (center cut of the tenderloin) was beautifully and evenly cooked…impressive considering how thick it was. The veal was accompanied by horseradish crème fraiche, creamy potato puree, and Brussels sprouts. I usually loathe beets, but these sous vide gems were really sweet and didn’t have that usual sourness – not surprising though since my previous meal at the French Laundry was the first time that I tasted *delicious* golden beets.
“Fourme d’Ambert” – this gorgeous cheese course looked both untamed and extravagant. The sweet French prunes and currant bread slices were perfect contrasts to the pungent blue cheese. However, I could have done without the roasted fennel – its taste and texture was odd with the blue cheese.
“Dark and Stormy” – a play on the dark ‘n’ stormy cocktail to cleanse our palates. The pineapple sorbet was bright and refreshing, while the spiced gingerbread provided a little kick.
“Gateau Saint Nizier au Manjari” – the dessert sounds French but definitely has a Southeast Asian influence. There was a lot going on, but the flourless Valrhona cocoa nibs took center stage. They were topped by spicy and sour mango-chili relish, and accompanied with a creamy coconut milk sorbet and a lime-infused whipped cream. The dessert was all over the place, but enjoyable overall.
Pecan Tart with Chantilly Cream – light and crunchy. Unlike the dense filling found in pecan pies, the pecans in this tart were much lighter…almost as if they had been popped like kettle corn or rice crispies.
Truffles & Chocolate-covered Macadamia Nuts – all of the truffles were wonderful (green tea, maple, peanut butter, pumpkin, caramel, peppermint) and so pretty. If I had to choose, my favorite was the pumpkin truffle – it tasted like a chocolate covered morsel of pumpkin pie…Mmmm. And these chocolate-covered macadamia nuts were sublime!
This is where the magic happens! B and I were fortunate enough to get a tour of the kitchen after our meal. Given the number and complexity of the courses, the kitchen was much smaller and calmer than I had expected. All of the stations were very organized and clean.
The sous vide machines (this picture is for you, S!)

BITE METER: French Laundry – 4.6 bites (out of 5)

Il Cane Rosso – A Casual Setting for a Remarkable Lunch

It was a chilly morning at the Farmers Market so I went inside the Ferry Building in search of something to warm me up…and found Il Cane Rosso, which had recently taken over the old Mistral space. "The Red Dog" is a joint venture between Daniel Patterson (chef of Coi) and Lauren Kiino (former Delfina chef) offering casual, Italian-inspired cuisine made with only local ingredients – many sourced directly from producers featured at the Ferry Building.

Heirloom Organic Carrot Soup with Dill Oil – the flavors were clean and straightforward. It reminded me of a butternut squash soup, but not as sweet and much lighter. The dill oil added a nice herbal note to the soup.

Gristmill Polenta with Sage Butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano – this is exactly how I like polenta…super thick and creamy with a nice chunky texture from the grains (people need to stop serving weak and mushy polenta). The sharp flavor of the parmigiano-reggiano balanced its richness. This polenta was so deliciously hearty and comforting.

Early Girl Tomato Sandwich with Fromage Blanc, Basil and Arugula – this sandwich looked so simple, yet it was absolute perfection. A prime example of how great ingredients can make all the difference in the world...just using any tomato, bread, or cheese would have made this sandwich taste completely different. The early girl tomatoes were extraordinarily sweet and powerful, it was like eating candy. The bread was plain and really airy so it didn’t dominate the sandwich, but it was toasted just right so that its crispy presence held up to the other ingredients. The Cowgirl Creamery fromage blanc was light and creamy, giving the sandwich just a bit of richness. And rounding out the sandwich was the delicate bitterness of the arugula and the sweet, grassy zip of the fresh basil. Also, served on the side were slices of pickled white carrots...crunchy, tart, and slightly sweet. It was all DELISH!!
I love having an incredible meal when I least expect it. I was just looking for a warm lunch and got so much more at Il Cane Rosso – simple and comforting food with a sophisticated touch.

After eating, I made a beeline to the Dirty Girl Produce stand to buy some early girl tomatoes. I was smitten by their incredible sweetness in my sandwich (sorry, my beloved heirlooms – you’ll now have to share my heart with these early girls!) I learned that early girl tomatoes are usually dry-farmed so they take in less water, increasing the concentration of their sweet flavor.

BITE METER: Il Cane Rosso - 4.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Mendocino, California (Day 2)

After warming ourselves with a delicious 3-course breakfast at Agate Cove Inn, B and I head over to the nearby Mendocino Headlands State Park. We went hiking around the park (ok, maybe it was more of a leisurely walk). It was amazing to see so many wildflowers grow so close to the ocean. I loved watching the waves crash against cliffs and feeling the cold, crisp ocean breeze on my face.

I was surprised to see people swimming in the freezing ocean. It turns out there's lots of abalone in Mendocino, and they were abalone divers. I didn't know that abalone diving was legal...or maybe I just assumed that because abalone is so rare and expensive.

After walking around in the cold all morning, we drove back down to Anderson Valley in search of sunshine - such a drastic difference in climate! We did more wine tasting at Roederer Estate. I thought their sparkling wines would be really good since they are owned by the French producers of Cristal...wrong! We had a much better experience at our next winery, Meyer Family Cellars. The Meyers were the original founders of Silver Oak and sold it in 2001. Silver Oak still makes great wine, however, it is much more 'commercial' now. The son of the family, Matt Meyer, then started this winery. B and I actually talked to Matt and his wife, Karen, for a while and learned a lot about their wines. It was such a rare treat to talk to the owners/winemakers, and they were so friendly and down-to-earth! (I call it serendipity: although I rarely order syrahs, our waiter had recommended the Meyer syrah at a restaurant. The wine turned out to be excellent, and I then realized that it was also the same winery that made the beloved port that I had bought at Silver Oak several years ago...and here we are!)

After taking one of my rare naps (like I said this trip was all about relaxation!), we headed to Cafe Beaujolais for dinner. The restaurant is inside a charming, yellow farmhouse in the heart of Mendocino. Inside, the decor is simple and elegant. The sage walls were framed with white molding, and everything was illuminated by candles and the soft overhead lighting. It had the feel of an intimate, yet modern bistro. We were immediately greeted by a very friendly and inviting hostess (and no, I wasn't just buttered up by the way she and the other hostess kept complimenting my dress; everyone at the restaurant was quite friendly). Our waiter was excellent -- he recommended some fantastic wines to complement our meal, was very knowledgable about the menu, and was able to describe the preparations of the dishes and the ingredients in great detail. (Pet peeve: when I ask about a dish, and the waiter says exactly what is written on the menu)

I know this sounds bad, but I can not remember what I had for my appetizer. (This is what I get when I wait too long before I write about it! Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of it either.) I think I had the crab cakes, but it must not have been memorable since good food usually sticks in my mind. For my entree, I had the arugula-stuffed organic free-range chicken on a bed of prosciutto and asparagus hash with champagne jus. The chicken was nicely roasted on the outside and juicy on the inside. The rich flavor of the champagne jus really accentuated the taste of the chicken. The hash was good, but could have used something tart or acidic to brighten it up.

I then had the chocolate lava cake with Tahitian vanilla ice cream for dessert. Since my ears automatically perk up when I hear anything with the words "warm/lava/molten" and "chocolate cake" together, I have had this type of dessert a LOT and my bar is pretty high. This dessert was wasn't bad, but left something to be desired...it didn't have that warm, rich gooey center.
Overall, the food was good (not great), but the warmth and elegance of the ambience and staff make Cafe Beaujolais feel special.

BITE METER:
Roederer Estate - 2.0 bites (out of 5)
Meyer Family Cellars - 4.5 bites (out of 5)
Cafe Beaujolais - 3.7 bites (out of 5)

Mendocino, California (Day 1)

B and I head to Mendocino to celebrate our anniversary. We wanted to go somewhere relaxing after our big Paris trip and before having to deal with moving the following weekend. On our drive up, we stop by Goldeneye Winery. We really like their Goldeneye pinot noir and have been wanting to make a trip up to Anderson Valley to try more of their wines. Goldeneye Winery is a beautiful property with a great outdoor patio for wine tasting. Goldeneye specializes in pinor noirs, while their sister wineries in Napa focus on bordeaux blends (Duckhorn) and zinfandels (Paraduxx). We had a flight of 7 wines and enjoyed them all so much that we joined their wine club. The information cards with tasting notes that accompanied each glass were a nice and appreciated touch. I typically prefer cabernet sauvignon, but found their pinots to be well-structured and complex.

We then made up way up to Mendocino where it was quite foggy and much colder. We stayed at a wonderful bed and breakfast called Agate Cove Inn. Our room was tastefully decorated and cozy. I especially loved the huge jacuzzi tub in the bathroom. Their towels were also really soft - it was like being at home, since most hotel towels are hard and don't feel like they use fabric softener. And to top it all off, they made the BEST breakfasts, far better than any other B&B that I've been to. Poached pear, home-made scones, blueberry bread pudding, eggs benedict...just to name a few of the things we had during our short stay.
To finish off our long day, we had dinner at La Petite Rive. After reading raving reviews on Yelp, I was looking forward to trying this tiny restaurant that is more off the beaten path. Also, the 5 course pre-fixe menu for $35/person seemed like a great deal. Unfortunately, I was disappointed. When we arrived, we found out that they gave our table to another couple who supposedly claimed to be us. The whole thing was handled very strangely, but we were seated at our table in the end. Our waitress was the daughter of the chef, but she surprisingly knew nothing about the food and could not describe the menu. Overall the food was average. The food served with each course was pretty basic - mushroom soup, green salad, asparagus and mashed potatoes for sides. The highlight of the evening was my peppercorn steak in a cabernet reduction - it was thick and juicy with a nice sear on the outside. However, that was offset by B's sad entree - his scallops were chewy and overcooked. I guess this is a prime example of "you get what you pay for."

BITE METER:
Goldeneye Winery - 4.5 bites (out of 5)
Agate Cove Inn - 4 bites (out of 5)
La Petite Rive - 2.5 bites (out of 5)