Alinea - Beyond Words

Alinea has recently been hailed as the Best Restaurant in the U.S. (and #7 in the World). With such status, I had extremely high expectations and quite honestly, was a bit worried that I’d expect too much and be let down. Instead, I was *completely* blown away by my experience at Alinea and would have to whole heartedly agree that it’s the best restaurant I’ve been to in the U.S. (sorry, French Laundry). What’s even more remarkable is that Alinea has only been around for 5 years, during part of which Chef Grant Achatz had battled tongue cancer.

Words can not adequately describe the phenomenal meal I had at Alinea. It is a true experience in all forms – the surprise of hidden sliding doors, interacting with the uniquely stunning presentations of each dish, anticipating what the next extraordinary course would bring, and most importantly, having my taste buds delighted and pushed to the limit with innovative, incredible food. You really do just have to experience it for yourself.

The food at Alinea is progressive, ambitious, artistic, and totally original. It was creative without being gimmicky. Chef Achatz and his team take modern American cuisine to a whole new level with their inventive genius. They make fun and exciting food, while still putting care into every single little detail.

The service was impeccable. Every need was anticipated before we had to ask for anything. The staff was professional, courteous, and very knowledgeable (even knew the history of the stemware!) I learned so much about the food and wine. [Btw, I highly recommend the reserve wine pairing. The wine beautifully complemented the food – an impressive feat with ~20 courses!]

The only thing I did not love about my experience at Alinea was the ambience. The dining room (there are 3) is a small, rectangular room with modern, minimalist décor in cool grey, beige, and black tones. It felt impersonal and lacked warmth. It’s a good thing that the food was so mesmerizing; else it’d be awkward to be in such a sparse room where you are so acutely aware of your neighbors. But maybe that was intentional, and they want you to just focus on the food…

They hung these pretty sheets of rice paper at the edge of the table, piquing my curiosity. Are these flags surrendering us to the food? :-9
Trio of Edible Cocktails:
LEMON – a frozen and chewy pisco sour. Like a firm marshmallow with alcohol.
CUCUMBER - cool and refreshing. A pool of gin and rose water inside a cucumber cube with mint.
CHERRY – their “improved” version of a Manhattan in the form of a maraschino cherry. This one packed a punch and warmed my throat going down. Nice.
ENGLISH PEA – unlike anything I’ve ever eaten before! Peas were mixed with frozen burrata cheese and dusted with Iberico ham powder. It was ice cold yet creamy, salty, sweet, and meaty all at once. The sherry “bubbles” and melon would also transform each bite by accentuating different flavors.
Trio of Shrimp on a Stick, inspired by different countries in Asia:
FRIED SHRIMP (China) – shrimp tempura with fermented black bean on cinnamon stick, dusted with Chinese five spice powder. Light, crispy, and packed with flavor. So much better than corn dogs!
YUBA (Japan) – sesame shrimp wrapped over a fried yuba stick in a miso mayo sauce. I’ve never had yuba fried and really enjoyed it, but found the shrimp to be too salty.
CHAO TOM (Vietnam) – believe it or not, food you’re encouraged to spit out! The sugar cane was infused with shrimp paste and mint. After chewing on it to extract the flavors, you spit it out into a small paper napkin. The flavors were surprisingly delicate, like a lightly sweet shrimp broth. It was a nice way to round out the course.

TOMATOES – this dish transported me to another place. I was initially confused and intrigued when they put pillows on top of the table. Then I started to smell the fresh, grassy aroma emitted by the pillows. Once the plate of heirloom tomatoes was set on the pillows, more of the aroma was emitted as the pillows deflated…it was like eating ripe tomatoes straight from the garden! The tomatoes were paired with different elements in powdered form (fried bread crumbs, frozen cheeses, pine nuts, bell pepper, onion, olive oil, balsamic vinegar), and it was fun to mix and match. I especially liked the mozzarella, in powdered and fried form. If summer had a taste, this would be it.
DISTILLATION of Thai flavors – it looked like water but was actually fish sauce, lemon grass, and chilies distilled down to their purest form. I had expected intense flavors when I heard fish sauce, but the flavors were remarkably clean and smooth.
PORK BELLY– the mystery is solved…make your own spring roll with the rice paper. This pork belly was ABSOLUTELY ORGASMIC! It had been slowly simmered in coconut milk and just melted in my mouth. I wanted more! A beautiful and colorful display of the toppings for the spring roll (sea salt, cucumber, fried garlic, curried mango, lime, baby coconut, red onion, chili paste, cashews, marigold and leaves, basil seed and lime sauce). I can only imaging how much patience it took to prepare each of those tiny pieces with such precision.
Trio of King Crab – this unique bowl/structure held 3 different crab courses
1) CRAB MOUSSE – one of my favorite courses. The velvety and sweet crab mousse was in perfect harmony with the chilled and herbaceous chervil gelée, Unbelievably good.
2) KING CRAB – crab meat topped with bell pepper, and fried avocado crusted with crushed marcona almonds and topped plum slices. Pretty to look at but the least interesting of the trio.
3) CRAB GRATIN – I loved the combination of the crab with the cipollini onions, fennel, and cream. It was warm, savory, and decadent, while still allowing the sweetness of the crab to shine through.
HOT POTATO – great things really do come in small packages. The metal pick slides down to drop a piece of butter, hot potato, and black truffle into the tiny wax bowl filled with cold potato soup. Let me say that again – potatoes, butter, and truffles. This is my kind of comfort food! This was so delicious, it took all my restraint to keep myself from licking the bowl clean.
LAMB – this dish pays homage to Elysian Fields Farm, where the lamb comes from. Paper thin slices of the most incredibly tender lamb were skewered on a sprig of rosemary, placed over a pool of creamed corn, and topped with crispy strands of fried green onion “grass”. The combination of flavors and textures was magnificent. I especially loved the fried cubes of breaded lamb fat (yes, I’m a fried fat glutton!) which had a silky and meaty taste similar to sweetbreads.
BLACK TRUFFLE – this would be the love child of a Chinese soup dumpling and an Italian truffle ravioli. An explosion of black truffle broth filled my mouth as I bit into the disc of pasta. Mmm!
TOURNEDO à la persane – a throwback to the classics, by using a 100 year-old recipe from Le Guide Culinaire. The Australian Wagyu beef that was so tender that I could cut it with a butter knife. It was served over an Anaheim pepper stuffed with jasmine rice, a cherry tomato, a fried banana slice, and a Chateaubriand sauce. The dish was good, but after being wowed all night by Chef Achatz’ creative genius, I would have preferred seeing how he would have reinvented the dish.
BACON – to help transition to desserts, this small strip of crisp bacon was drizzled with butterscotch, “ribbons” of dehydrated granny smith apple, and thyme. As interesting to look at as it was to eat.
LEMON SODA – a dash of powdered lemon soda wrapped in edible clear paper. A great palate cleanser. (I ate this before taking a picture. Oops)

TRANSPARENCY – a more elegant version of a raspberry fruit roll-up.
BUBBLE GUM - a glass straw filled with long pepper, hibiscus gel, crème fraîche, and bubble gum tapioca pearls…all consumed with one big suck. Such a fun course! Brought me back to childhood.
EARL GREY – I was ready to dislike this dessert because I detest early grey tea, but this was surprisingly my favorite dessert of the evening. It was a moist and crumbly early grey cake served with pine nut custard, lemon curd, and rose gelée. The flavors were so well balanced – buttery, sweet, tart, and with just a hint of bitterness from the earl grey. The caramelized white chocolate noodle also added a playful yet tasty touch.
CHOCOLATE – The ultimate demonstration of fantasy and wonder at Alinea. A silicon tablecloth and several bowls and plates filled with mysterious items were placed on our table for the final dessert course. Then Chef Dave Beran (the Chef de Cuisine) comes out to greet us for a tableside presentation, where he pours molten chocolate into two glass cylinders and starts covering our table with chewy coconut balls, young coconut meringue, coconut milk, dark chocolate and menthol crumbs, hyssop leaves, and menthol crisps. Then he breaks a block of nitrogen-frozen chocolate mousse over the table and removes the glass cylinders to create a volcanic-looking chocolate wonderland. It was interesting to experience chocolate, coconut, and menthol in so many different tastes, temperatures, and textures. A tableside presentation like no other!
B and I were fortunate enough to get a quick tour of the kitchen. There are about 23 chefs/cooks in the kitchen for only 65 diners – that’s over 1 cook for every 3 diners! With so many people in the kitchen, it was impressively calm, quiet, and composed.
After our 4 hour meal, I felt inspired and completely enchanted. Alinea made me fall in love with food all over again. We stayed up that night talking about our experience for hours afterwards. I’ve had many great meals, but few have left me feeling so awestruck. The $185 tasting menu is pricey, but still a “bargain” considering the number of elaborate and well-executed courses...a small price to pay for one of the best meals of my life.

BITE METER: Alinea – 4.9 bites (out of 5)

minibar – 27 Tasty Wonders

This was the most fun I’ve ever had with a meal. Only 6 diners at a time + 3 creative chefs + 27 amazing courses = one of a kind experience at minibar. The food is innovative, whimsical,
thoughtful, and most importantly, DELICOUS! José Andrés is the creative brain behind minibar (he trained under the genius Ferran Adrià at El Bulli) and has introduced a whole new way to experience food in the U.S. He shows us that food can be entertaining, surprising, and tasty…all in the same bite. Andrés also makes the dining experience even more special by enabling us to interact with the chefs – the chefs make all the courses in the tiny space behind the counter and happily answer questions while we watch the magic happen. [Note: It's a lot to read, so I've highlighted the courses that I thought were especially phenomenal in bold below]

Our meal gets off to an exciting start with liquid nitrogen being poured over the one of the cocktails. [Recommendation: It’s impossible to pair wine with so many courses. I had flight of champagne to accompany my dishes, but B had an fantastic German riesling (Dr. Loosen 2006) that paired well with just about every dish.]

The Munchies (small bites):

PISCO SOUR – a new take on the Peruvian cocktail. It was a play on contrasts - sour elixir at the bottom and the sweet, frothy egg white topping, while also being warm and cold at the same time. This was refreshing and delightful to drink.
BEET “TUMBLEWEED” – super crunchy and light. The beet flavor was subtle, but they were able to capture so much of the beet’s natural sweetness and saltiness that they didn’t need to add any seasoning to this bite-size “tumbleweed”. It tasted like Terra chips but sooooo much better.
“BAGELS & LOX” – this reminded me of Thomas Keller’s signature salmon cornets, only with salmon roe instead of salmon tartare. The roe was really fresh and its salty little explosions were softened by a light crème fraîche hidden inside the bottom of the cone.
CURRIED CHICKEN WING – if only all chicken wings could taste this good…moist, boneless chicken meat inside a crispy, curry-flavored skin with a dollop of coconut milk on top. The chicken was savory and stick-to-your-ribs greasy (in a good way).
“FERRERO ROCHER” – like eating the Italian chocolates, wrapper and all! They said this was a savory version of it, but I only tasted sweet, chocolate liquid and hazelnut as I bit into the golden ball…perhaps this is one instance where my eyes and expectations tricked my taste buds.
“MOJITO” – cocktail in a bubble...so much cooler than jello shots! The gelatin encasing contained a vivid burst of lime and mint juices.
BLUE CHEESE AND ALMOND – this dish left me confused. Almond cream was quickly frozen in liquid nitrogen to create a thin shell that melted in my mouth around a cold ball of blue cheese. The almond flavor was overpowering, and the blue cheese was surprisingly faint…nonetheless, the two tasted strange together. This was probably the only course I wasn’t fond of (pretty good odds considering the extensive number of courses).
STEAMED BRIOCHE BUN IN CAVIAR – absolutely divine! This was a million times better than a blini…the fluffy bun was filled with crème fraîche and then topped with osetra caviar and lemon foam. The bun was like Chinese buns, only a lot lighter, less starchy, and much more sophisticated.
TEMPURA BRUSSELS SPROUT “ROSE” – light, crispy, and flaky…almost like the brussels sprout had been encased in phyllo dough. And with the touch of sweetness from honey and rose water added a touch of sweetness, it was like eating a ball of warm brussels sprout baklava. None of this vegetable’s usual bitterness could be detected either.
COTTON CANDY EEL – brilliant presentation. I loved this dish! Unagi (sweet bbq eel) was wrapped in shiso leaf, then cocooned in a peppery cotton candy…it looked like a butterfly was about to emerge. The cotton candy’s ethereal texture crunched and melted in my mouth, while enhancing the sweetness of warm unagi with each bite. This dish was an evolution of their popular ‘foie gras cotton candy’, which I wish I could have had as well…hopefully it’ll be back on their menu during my next visit.
DRAGON’S BREATH POPCORN – so fun to watch others eat… as you bite into it and breath, steam comes out of your mouth and nose! The frozen popcorn had a hint of curry while also tasting slightly sweet like kettle corn.
Flavors & Textures (larger tastes):

ZUCCHINI IN TEXTURES – I usually dislike zucchini, but really enjoyed this dish. There were many layers of varying tastes and textures, while still maintaining the essence of zucchini throughout each part…cool zucchini gelee, soft tapioca-like zucchini seeds, and velvety, savory zucchini mousse at the bottom. This dish was both refreshing and rich at the same time.
“GUACAMOLE” – cold, spicy tomato sorbet, wrapped in creamy slivers of avocado, topped with salty pieces of crunchy tortilla chips, on a pool of lime juice…this was a Mexican fiesta in my mouth! The bold flavors and textures were incredible. And yes, it *did* taste like guacamole.
SMOKED OYSTER WITH GREEN APPLE – I was initially excited when I heard this was a Kusshi oyster – they’re sweet and buttery with a clean finish, which makes them a favorite of mine. However, those qualities somehow gotten lost in the smoking process – the oyster didn’t taste fresh or sweet. It still had a plump, silky texture and the green apple and lemon foam helped brighten it up, but the dish would have been so much better had they just served the oyster in its raw glory.
CORN WITH HUITLACOCHE – a recreation of baby corn…or as they put it, they were “playing God with this dish.” Finely ground pieces of baby corn wrapped around gelatin husk. I forget the actual ratio, but they used over 100 baby corn to make just a few of these corn creations. This dish truly captured the essence of corn – the “baby corn” tasted like delicately roasted corn, the bed of yellow sauce was like a creamy and sweet corn pudding, and the black huitlacoche sauce (made from a fungus that grows on corn, also known as the “Mexican corn truffle”) added a complex, earthy element…so many different layers and flavors unfolded with each bite. It was sophisticated while also evoking the rustic, outdoors at the same time.
“SUN DRIED” TOMATO SALAD – literally melt-in-my-mouth sun-dried tomatoes. They kept the concentrated flavors of sun-dried tomatoes, but removed chewy texture by making them into gelatin and then dehydrating it so they liquefy in your mouth. The intensely sweet, tart, and earthy flavors from the “sun-dried tomatoes” were balanced by the light creaminess of the yogurt capsules, which resembled balls of mozzarella…although it looked similar, this dish was definitely not your ordinary Caprese salad.

The spectacular chefs meticulously preparing our next course.

CHARCOAL SALMON TORO – although the salmon was smoked, it wasn’t super salty like regular smoked salmon….it had a more delicate smoky flavor, which was accentuated by the fermented garlic “charcoal”. The ‘toro’ (belly cut of the fish) had a luscious fatty texture, and the tiny lemon-lime capsules provided just the right amount of acidity to cut the rich salmon.
PARMESAN EGG WITH MIGAS – an egg within an egg. They created a parmesan ‘yolk’, and then put a quail egg yolk inside of it. Once broken, the yolks had that perfectly runny consistency. It was obscenely good when mixed with the thin wafers of fried bread and black truffle shavings…salty, earthy, gooey, cheesy deliciousness! This dish still makes my mouth water when I think of it.
NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER – deconstructed chowder…a layer of potato puree on bottom, then a layer of sweet caramelized onion paste, then whipped bacon cream, chive oil, and finally a bit of clam foam. Then it’s topped off with fresh clams and a sprinkle of bacon. Eaten all together, it was the best of clam chowder blanketing my taste buds…warm, rich, hearty and the whole clams were so sweet and succulent. Each spoonful brought out different flavors and textures.
BREADED CIGALA WITH SEA SALAD – the flavors were distinctly Chinese, but I can’t pinpoint the exact dish it reminded me of…cooked langoustine with a crisp, sesame foam, and watercress.
“PHILLY CHEESESTEAK” – lightly seared Wagyu beef over a toasted bread puff with a warm, creamy cheese filling. Eat with caution, as the cheese oozes out with each bite. I’m not sure what type of cheese they used, but it tasted like processed American cheese and didn’t complement the high quality beef. The thin slices of Wagyu beef were delicate yet meaty, its flavor was enhanced by the salt crystals.
Sweet Ending (desserts):

THAI DESSERT – this dish blew my mind! Not only was it one of the most interesting and unique things I’ve had in a long time, it tasted magnificent. This dessert consisted of coconut milk ice cream, frozen peanut powder, and lemongrass-tamarind gelee – together, it tasted exactly like pad thai but with completely different textures. It may sound strange, but tasted sooooo good. The flavors worked as a dessert because the peanut sauce in traditional pad is somewhat sweet from the peanut sauce. The coconut milk ice cream was luscious and rich, and there was a bit of heat from the cayenne that tantalized my taste buds.
FROZEN YOGURT WITH HONEY – it was like eating soft snow that turned into creamy yogurt in your mouth. They had transformed frozen wildflower and thyme Greek yogurt into fine powder, then spooned it onto a pool of olive oil. On top was a sprinkle of crunchy honey crystals and micro mint leaves. The powdered yogurt and olive oil mixture tasted creamy, while still maintaining a subtle elegance.
MANGO BOX – a pretty petit four…hard sugared mango shell filled with cream and black olives shavings. I particularly enjoyed the hint of saltiness from the olives.
BACON AND CHOCOLATE – I’ve been on the fence about the whole movement of putting bacon in desserts, but it worked here…a crisp slice of bacon covered in dark chocolate. Not too salty, not too sweet…just right.
“S’MORES” – the recreation of this campfire favorite slightly missed the mark. A passionfruit marshmallow coated in a dark chocolate shell that had been torched so that it that delicate crunch of crème brulee. The passionfruit marshmallow ended up being more liquidy than gooey, and the lack of graham crackers left something to be desired. (Apparently, there was great debate among the chefs as to whether or not to include graham cracker. They should – graham crackers are one of the three crucial ingredients of a s’more!)
FIZZY BALL – a denser version of cotton candy using sodium bicarbonate. It fizzed in my mouth and tasted like Sprite – a great palate cleanser!
I won’t spoil it for you, but they present the bill in a very fun, surprising way.

It was meal that kept me thinking and talking about it for days. There were 27 courses, but each was so distinctive and creative. I was wowed by the array of bold flavors and textures, and loved the interactive experience. The portion sizes were also just right – I left feeling satisfied but not overly stuffed. Perhaps what is most amazing is that I could eat it all again and have a completely different experience. There was so much to take in with each dish that I couldn’t fully appreciate all the nuances (also, the courses come out quickly and must be eaten almost instantly to enjoy them at the proper temperature). But maybe that’s the point of minibar – instead of dissecting a dish and focusing on all the details, just sit back and appreciate the impression and wonder that each dish leaves you with.

BITE METER: minibar – 4.5 bites (out of 5)