Max’s Wine Dive – What Happened to Attention-to-Detail?

While I like the “gourmet comfort food and wine” concept of Max’s Wine Dive, their food still leaves something to be desired. Last time, I tried their fried chicken and Kobe beef burger (among many other things), but wasn’t really wowed. This time I went for brunch so I could have their signature fried egg sandwich…

The description on their menu reads: three pan fried eggs drizzled with truffle oil and Maldon sea salt, topped with three slabs of apple wood smoked bacon and Veldehuizen gruyere, organic bibb lettuce, hot house tomato, and black truffle aioli – all sandwiched between two pieces of artisan sourdough and served with hand-cut chips

Sounds good, right? Unfortunately, there was a big misstep from concept to execution. They failed by making the sandwich way too oily and didn’t have the correct proportion for the ingredients. My bread was soggy…not something you want went it’s brimming with stuff on the inside. So of course, it fell apart as I ate it. If there are already so many oily components to the sandwich (bacon, fried eggs, cheese, aioli), why not just toast the bread instead of grilling it on butter? Amidst all that grease, the bacon was the only ingredient that I could really taste. The sandwich needed more acidity/tomatoes to cut the grease, and the subtle gruyere and truffle flavors were lost. While the potato chips were nicely seasoned, they were also drenched and glistening with oil…what’s so hard about draining off the extra oil?! This had the potential to be a great meal, but it wasn’t due to simple mistakes. They need to put more care into making the food.

To sum it up, this was like a greasy sandwich that I’d get at any diner…ok, maybe slightly better, but definitely not “gourmet”. One thing Max's has going for them is their HUGE portion sizes (my sandwich was at least 8 inches long) and reasonable prices (average brunch item was about $12). However, does any of that matter if I don’t care to ever eat that sandwich again?

BITE METER: Max’s Wine Dive – 2.0 bites (out of 5)

VOICE – Sweet Melody of Tastes

I really enjoyed my experience at VOICE. Not only was I surrounded by the company of my family, but the food was wonderful, the wine was well-balanced and great with the food (MacPhail Anderson Valley Pinot Noir – 2005 or 2006), and the staff was friendly and attentive. We had a larger party, but they seated us a corner booth in the back so it still felt cozy. The restaurant is on the ground floor of the Hotel Icon and has very open layout with high ceilings, but the dark woods, classical-modern décor, and heavy fabrics made it more welcoming and warm.

Mushroom Soup “Cappuccino” – an elegant and creative presentation of mushroom soup. The crimini mushroom soup was creamy and full of rich, earthy flavors. The fluffy texture and delicate taste of the truffle foam added a layer of complexity, while the sprinkle of porcini powder completed the inviting “cappucino’ look. With the generous portion size, I happily shared my soup with B and still had plenty for myself.

Sous Vide Duck with Spring Onions, Tokyo Turnip, Fava Beans, Caraway Sauce – the duck was beautifully cooked…incredibly tender without feeling oily or fatty like duck often can. All of the duck’s natural flavor was retained through the sous vide preparation…it was so savory and meaty, almost like the duck had been tea-smoked. I was so enamored by the duck that I can’t remember a single thing about the vegetables…this was the best duck that I’ve had in a long time.
Bryan Farms Chicken with Pearl Onions, Swiss Chard, Garlic, Pan Butter – this was actually B’s entrée but deserves honorable mention because it was so outstanding. Bryan Farms is the well-known source for high quality chicken (hormone-free, all-natural feed, air-chilled) and you can definitely taste the difference. A pool of sumptuous pan butter sauce coated the warm, juicy chicken…so good that you want to lick your lips to savor ever last bit.
Parmesan Truffle Fries – very well seasoned and crispy…I can’t think of anything better to put on French fries than parmesan cheese and truffle oil. Needless to say, I greedily devoured these tasty sticks.
Warm Chocolate Cake & Crunchy Vanilla Ice Cream – It was good, but not exceptional. This is such a common dessert that I wish they had put a bit of a twist on it or made it really shine (as they’ve done with everything else). Also, I wouldn’t call ice cream “crunchy” if it’s just sitting on a bed of crumbs. Regardless, it was still a well executed dessert – moist chocolate cake with a sweet, molten center. (Disclaimer: My sweet tooth overpowered my brain so I accidentally took a few bites before taking the picture. Oops!)
VOICE takes simple ingredients and presents them in their best form, showcasing their true flavors. Their food is refined and focused. (Note: The only dish of the evening that wasn’t successful was my sister’s halibut and pasta dish…the halibut was oddly fishy and dry. So don’t order that if you go to VOICE.)

BITE METER: VOICE – 4.0 bites (out of 5)

Houston Home Cookin’ – Part Deux

N’s delicious (and relatively healthy!) brunch: Smoke salmon eggs benedict, roasted tomato and pesto pastry, fresh fruit

S’ special fried egg ramen: Nothing hits the spot at 2am after drinking like a piping hot bowl of spicy, salty ramen!

Seafood extravaganza with my parents: 2 steamed 4-lb lobsters (their claws were bigger than my hands!), 2 Dungeness crabs, and 8 sweet blue crabs…all for just 4 people!

Kata Robata - Great Grilled Food And So Much More

Kata Robata is probably the best Japanese food that I’ve had in Houston. Not surprisingly, I’m always a bit hesitant to eat Japanese or sushi in Texas after being spoiled by the incredible options in California, New York, and Japan, but the Lone Star State is finally getting some talent to turn things up a notch in Texas. [Recommendation: Uchi in Austin is the best Japanese restaurant that I’ve tried in Texas.]

Hamachi Sashimi with Yuzu-Jalapeno Oil – the citrus flavors from the yuzu and spicy kick from jalapeno complemented the buttery hamachi. I was also relieved the jalapeno slices weren’t very hot…would’ve been a shame to kill my palate at the beginning of the meal.
Robata Lamb – very tender with a lovely sweet glaze. Absolutely no gaminess to the lamb. Would have been even better had it been served at a warmer temperature.
Uni and King Crab Spoons – an amazing combination…creamy uni, sweet succulent crabmeat, salty bursts of tobiko, all covered in a refreshing soy-vinegar sauce. It had the makings of the ‘perfect bite’…if only the uni had been fresher. However, since there wasn’t that much uni on the spoon, the fishiness was very subtle and the whole thing was still delectable. I only notice because I’m an avid uni enthusiast.
Foie Gras and Scallop Sushi – a luscious, rich morsel of foie gras…nicely seared and just the right amount of kabayaki sauce. The foie completely dominated the scallop though; perhaps the sweetness of the scallop wouldn’t have been lost had it been sliced thicker. [Recommendation: Oya in Boston makes the *best* foie gras sushi - served balsamic chocolate kabayaki, it's heaven in a bite!]
“Fish and Chips” – great presentation…meaty chunks of battered fish served on its crunchy fried skeleton. The fish was deliciously warm and moist on the inside. The best part was the sweet, tangy mayo that accompanied it (I think it was infused with yuzu).
Shrimp and Uni Linguini – this should have been renamed ‘shrimp and truffle linguini’. I could not taste the uni at all, but the linguini did have a velvety creaminess to it. The earthy truffle flavors and sautéed mushrooms added a rich depth to the dish, while the fresh, plump shrimp nicely balanced the textures and flavors.
Hamachi Kama – next to the belly, the collar is the most fatty and delicious part of the yellowtail. This kama was perfectly grilled and had a rich, buttery flavor. It’s usually served with ponzu sauce, but not here…fortunately, the fish was so good that I didn’t really miss it.
Uni Chawanmushi – one of my favorites of the night. The steamed egg custard was heightened by the magnificent creaminess of the uni. The warm custard was light, yet comforting while the sliced shitake mushrooms and seaweed added the appropriate textural contrast. Umami!
Overall, the flavors were great, but still need a bit of refining. The service also needs work, and the ambience lacked character. My biggest complaint was that all of the food practically came out at the same time. They should have served the raw/lighter items first and paced the dishes so we could be enjoy them properly. If I come back to Kata Robata, I’d order just a few items at a time or sit at the sushi bar and order the chef’s omakase.

BITE METER: Kata Robata – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0 bites)

Turkey Day

I hope everyone enjoyed gorging themselves on food as much as I did over Thanksgiving. A special thanks to my sister for preparing such a wonderful feast. Some of the highlights were...

Cajun Turducken Stuffed with Crawfish and Rice

Sausage & Cheese Biscuits

Green Beans with Onions and Almond Slivers

Home cookin' in Houston

Nothing tastes as good as a meal that has been made with love by family and friends. Below are a few of the tasty delights that I had from my weekend in Houston.

Serrano ham and brie crostini topped with a fried quail egg over a cauliflower puree – a scrumptious and sophisticated “snack” prepared by S after my flight.
A southern style feast at N and Q’s home. My sister caught the grouper herself and prepared it two ways: blackened and with a zesty mango salsa; while my brother-in-law grilled 3 racks of spicy honey bbq ribs.
However, my heart belongs to my parents' cooking. I always feel so happy and comforted by their food. Some of my favorite dishes include soy and honey glazed quail, jumbo prawns in sweet tomato sauce, braised pork and eggs in caramelized sauce, while B especially loves my mom’s fried rice (pictured).

*17 restaurant - Execution is Key

Coincidentally, it was also Restaurant Week in Houston (HRW). My friend, S, wanted to check out *17 restaurant since they now have a new chef. I also wanted to go back for sentimental reasons, which makes it even more unfortunate that this experience was so lackluster.

The red damask walls and sleek strands of crystals dangling from the ceiling gave the dining room a warm, luxurious feel. Our waitress showed great enthusiasm for wine and food, and their HRW menu was intriguing (more creative than most of the other restaurants’). If only the execution of the food had been on par with these other elements, this would have been an outstanding meal.

Since S and I split all of our dishes, I’ll list everything below with a short description.

Amuse bouche: Garlic Ice Cream Float with ginger ale
Definitely an interesting way to start a meal. The float was light and fluffy with just a soft hint of garlic.

First Course:

Coastal Napolean: fried green tomato/ gulf lump crab/ *17 roumalade/ micro greens
A delicate dish with flaky wafers separating the crabmeat. The mustard seeds added a subtle complexity to the creamy roumalade. I wish the crabmeat had been sweet instead of bland, that would have really elevated this dish.

Black Angus Dumpling: braised ribeye/sho mai.dipping sauce
The dumpling wrappers had a nice, silky texture, but flavor of the meat got lost in the extremely salty sauce. Second Course:

De-constructed Beef Wellington: Seared tenderloin/ foie gras/ roasted radish/ bordelaise/ wild mushrooms
This dish would have been good had it not been overcooked -- the tenderloin was dry and the foie gras was so shriveled up that I could hardly taste it (what a waste of foie!)
Fried Quail & Waffles: tomatoes and okra/ maple reduction/ pepper gelee
This was the item that had caught my eye when I had originally skimmed the HRW menus. Sadly, it was the most disappointing course of the evening. The fried quail was dry and under-seasoned, and the waffled tasted like it had been made yesterday. The pepper gelee was the only bright component of the dish – it packed an unexpected punch.
Third Course:

Masumoto Peach Souffle: creme anglaise/ peach chips
I liked the playfulness of the soufflé floating in the crème anglaise instead of the usual crème anglaise being poured inside the soufflé, however, the consistency of the soufflé was off -- it was more like an angel food cake. The peach chips were tart and crunchy (I wonder if Trader Joe’s sells anything like this...it'd make a great snack).

Strawberry Panna Cotta: rhubarb compote/ almond tuile
The panna cotta was probably the only thing that was done right the whole night. It was subtle sweetness from the strawberry and had a lovely creamy texture.

White Ganache and Dark Chocolate Cake: espresso ice cream/ peanut powder/ caramel sauce
This dessert was way too sweet (even for me) and the caramel sauce was overkill. The espresso ice cream with the powdered peanuts was delicious though – they should have had just those two items as the dessert.
Note: We had a complimentary third dessert because I had mentioned that our entrees were “a bit dry” (yes, I was being polite) when our waitress asked what we thought of the food. As I said, the service was great, it was the execution that was the problem here.

BITE METER: *17 restaurant – 2.0 bites (out of 5)