Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.

Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Ramen Dojo – Sans Slurp

Why do I always find myself driving down to San Mateo for good ramen? With gas prices so high, I wish there were better options in the city.

Ramen Dojo is a tiny place with about 7 tables and a few seats along the counter. Thus, there is inevitably always a line. And the service is inefficient, so the line tends to move slowly. The same person takes the orders, handles the bills, and calls the names on the lists…and often not in the most practical sequence. I try not to get too annoyed as I watch empty tables waiting to be filled while she does other stuff, then slams the kitchen when she seats everyone all at once.

Fortunately, I forget about the wait as soon as my big beautiful bowl of spicy miso ramen arrives. The noodles have the perfect amount of chewiness, and the tender slices of pork just fall apart in my mouth. The quail egg, garlic cloves, and green chives enhance the rich ramen…and I always add a helping of their crunchy, sweet bamboo to round out the flavors. My only wish is that they put more broth in the bowl. The broth is so thick and served in such a small quantity, that it’s more like a stew than a soup you can slurp your noodles with. And slurping your ramen is proper Japanese etiquette! BITE METER: Ramen Dojo – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Bistro Vis à Vis – Cupid Misfires

I’m surprised by the high ratings received by Bistro Vis à Vis on Yelp. There were some creative ideas, but overall the food was just average…not deserving the ~$100/person bill. Maybe it was because their regular menu wasn’t available when I ate here (it was the same week as Valentine’s so they required everyone to have the set menu). Regardless, the service was clumsy and needs work. Our waiter was forgetful and would literally just drop food and wine off at the table without saying anything (he could have at least told us what kind of wine was being paired with each course!). The restaurant also lacks personality. I knew something was awry when I pulled up and found out it was located in a strip mall (it’s hard to overcome the cheesiness of a strip mall even if you are in Marin).

Abalone with Blood Oranges – the fresh abalone from Santa Cruz was coated and pan-fried, giving a unique savoriness and succulence, while the blood oranges added sweetness and acidity.
Mushroom and Shaved Truffle Salad – way overdressed. The tartness of vinaigrette overwhelmed the delicate truffle flavor. And the parmesan crisp was more rubbery than crispy.
Octopus Paperdelle – I forgot to take a photo, but you’re not missing much. I was expecting a rich paperdelle dish, but got pasta in a light broth instead. While the broth developed a good seafood flavor, the octopus was bland and chewy. The table next to me sent this dish back; I was too nice to do the same.

Pork Loin with Potatoes – best dish of the night. The pork was flavorful and juicy. I liked the use of different potatoes (gold, purple, and sweet) and serving them two ways, roasted and fried chips. The roasted potatoes were especially delightful…left ever so slightly raw in the middle to give them a bit of a crunch without tasting undercooked.
Chocolate Cake with Raspberries – dense, sweet chocolate. Nothing more, nothing less.
Okay food. Clumsy service. Weird ambience. Go someplace else.

BITE METER: Bistro Vis à Vis – 2.0 bites (out of 5.0)