May 22, 2011

Incanto – Italian Fare for the Adventurous

I’ve been frequenting Incanto for years. It never fails to hit the spot when I’m craving comforting, rustic Italian food. Their ingredients are always high quality and include interesting and daring menu items – a haven for adventurous meat lovers. Chef Chris Cosentino has been rocking offal dishes way before the ‘head to tail’ movement became popular. The restaurant also has a warm atmosphere and staff that are both knowledgeable and passionate about the food.

Boccalone Ibérico di Bellota Lardo, Shinku Pear & Mint – composed of paper thin ribbons of lardo (back fat) from the celebrated Ibérico di Bellota pigs (free-range and fed only acorns…think Kobe beef of pigs) draped over cool, crisp pears and refreshing mint. The lardo was remarkably light, while giving the pears had this buttery melt-in-your-mouth coating. Exquisite!
Quail and Caper Salad– wish it was served warm, but the flavors were great and the richness of the quail shined.
Burnt Flour Rigatoni, Wild Mushrooms & Nettles – a throwback to the poor’s utilization of “used flour”, the burnt flour created a denser pasta with a chocolate color. I loved the strong flavors of the wild mushrooms….sumptuous and earthy with a bite from the nettles. Just what I needed on a cold, rainy day.
Roasted Lamb Neck, Smashed Roots, Broccoli di Ciccio & Gremolata – my hubby’s favorite dish at Incanto. He can’t resist whenever it’s on the menu. The lamb neck is moist and meaty, while the Italian parsley and gremolata balances its richness with herb and citrus flavors.


While this wasn’t the best meal that I’ve had at Incanto, it’s only because the bar has been set so high by the many other amazing meals I’ve had here over the years. I still dream of their amazing braised octopus dish and can’t wait for it to featured on the menu again. What I love most about Incanto is its ability to constantly showcase unique ingredients or serve food in a different way while keeping still making it *feel* traditional.

BITE METER: Incanto – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)


March 20, 2011

Foodtruck Fun

The foodtruck phenomenon has long taken hold on San Francisco and keeps on growing. Below are some of my favorite meals on wheels:

Roli Roti – I’ve already written about Roli Roti, but I can’t do a food truck/stand themed without mentioning their unbelievably amazing porchetta sandwich. Thick slabs of oh-so-juicy roasted pork, seasoned to perfection with rock salt and rosemary, topped with bits of crunchy pork cracklings, caramelized onions, and fresh arugula…all in a big, crispy roll. No other place comes close its quality and price. (Tip: The short line is for their rotisserie chicken only. There’s a reason why it’s short, stick with the pork.)

Chairman Bao – Next to Roli Roti, Chairman Bao is my favorite food truck in San Francisco. Just the thought of their pillowy steamed buns filled with fatty, savory pork belly and crunchy slices of pickled daikon makes me salivate. Their duck confit and mango salad bun should also not be missed. After waiting in line (this truck usually has the longest line), you should get your fill on both.


Cupkates – I have a weakness for red velvet cupcakes, and these are one of the best around! Super moist and rich with the perfect hint of chocolate, while the cream cheese frosting is light and tangy. DELISH! However, I would not recommend the s’mores cupcake. It tasted bitter and oily, while the marshmallow frosting was overly sweet.


JapaCurry – Mmmmm, their pork katsu curry will warm your soul. Tender breaded pork cutlets smothered with a savory Japanese curry, all over a heaping serving of rice. Great to eat on a cold day.



Hapa SF – the adobo chicken banh mi is a tasty Filipino take on the Vietnamese sandwich. The chicken was flavorful and moist, while the pickled veggies kept it light.


Curry Up Now – I’ve only had the chicken tikka masala burrito. The chicken was slightly dry, but well dressed by the creamy and spicy tikka masala. Overall pretty good, but I prefer the fresh-out-of-the-tandoori-oven chicken tikka masala naan rolls served at Jack London Square Farmers’ Market on Sundays.


Food trucks that didn’t make the cut:

• Kung Fu Tacos – chicken was dry and the tacos were not particularly memorable.
• The Crème Brûlée Cart – the vanilla bean crème brûlée was bland, and served warmer than room temperature, like it’d been sitting out all day. Bleh.
• Senor Sisig – their tacos were waaaaaaaaaaaay too salty


BITE METER:
Roli Roti – 4.5 bites (out of 5.0)
Chairman Bao – 4.5 bites
JapaCurry – 3.5 bites
Cupkates – 3.5 bites
Hapa SF - 3.5 bites
Curry Up Now – 3.0 bites

March 13, 2011

Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.
Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.
Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)