Twofish Bakery - Pastry Heaven

Wow, who would have thought there'd be such a PHENOMENAL bakery in the sleepy town of Sea Ranch?! The pastries at Twofish Bakery here were absolutely delish!! Flaky yet crispy, sweet but not too sugary, and buttery but not too rich...perfectly balanced flavors and textures in each luscious bite! I was in breakfast heaven as I gorged on their almond croissant (my fave), scone, and cinnamon roll. Good thing I can get my pastry fix at Tartine Bakery in SF, otherwise I'd have to brave the treacherously windy roads up to Sea Ranch more often!

BITE METER: Two Fish Bakery - 5.0 bites (out of 5)

Incanto – Italian Fare for the Adventurous

I’ve been frequenting Incanto for years. It never fails to hit the spot when I’m craving comforting, rustic Italian food. Their ingredients are always high quality and include interesting and daring menu items – a haven for adventurous meat lovers. Chef Chris Cosentino has been rocking offal dishes way before the ‘head to tail’ movement became popular. The restaurant also has a warm atmosphere and staff that are both knowledgeable and passionate about the food.

Boccalone Ibérico di Bellota Lardo, Shinku Pear & Mint – composed of paper thin ribbons of lardo (back fat) from the celebrated Ibérico di Bellota pigs (free-range and fed only acorns…think Kobe beef of pigs) draped over cool, crisp pears and refreshing mint. The lardo was remarkably light, while giving the pears had this buttery melt-in-your-mouth coating. Exquisite!
Quail and Caper Salad– wish it was served warm, but the flavors were great and the richness of the quail shined.
Burnt Flour Rigatoni, Wild Mushrooms & Nettles – a throwback to the poor’s utilization of “used flour”, the burnt flour created a denser pasta with a chocolate color. I loved the strong flavors of the wild mushrooms….sumptuous and earthy with a bite from the nettles. Just what I needed on a cold, rainy day.
Roasted Lamb Neck, Smashed Roots, Broccoli di Ciccio & Gremolata – my hubby’s favorite dish at Incanto. He can’t resist whenever it’s on the menu. The lamb neck is moist and meaty, while the Italian parsley and gremolata balances its richness with herb and citrus flavors.

While this wasn’t the best meal that I’ve had at Incanto, it’s only because the bar has been set so high by the many other amazing meals I’ve had here over the years. I still dream of their amazing braised octopus dish and can’t wait for it to featured on the menu again. What I love most about Incanto is its ability to constantly showcase unique ingredients or serve food in a different way while keeping still making it *feel* traditional.

BITE METER: Incanto – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Foodtruck Fun

The foodtruck phenomenon has long taken hold on San Francisco and keeps on growing. Below are some of my favorite meals on wheels:

Roli Roti – I’ve already written about Roli Roti, but I can’t do a food truck/stand themed without mentioning their unbelievably amazing porchetta sandwich. Thick slabs of oh-so-juicy roasted pork, seasoned to perfection with rock salt and rosemary, topped with bits of crunchy pork cracklings, caramelized onions, and fresh arugula…all in a big, crispy roll. No other place comes close its quality and price. (Tip: The short line is for their rotisserie chicken only. There’s a reason why it’s short, stick with the pork.)

Chairman Bao – Next to Roli Roti, Chairman Bao is my favorite food truck in San Francisco. Just the thought of their pillowy steamed buns filled with fatty, savory pork belly and crunchy slices of pickled daikon makes me salivate. Their duck confit and mango salad bun should also not be missed. After waiting in line (this truck usually has the longest line), you should get your fill on both.

Cupkates – I have a weakness for red velvet cupcakes, and these are one of the best around! Super moist and rich with the perfect hint of chocolate, while the cream cheese frosting is light and tangy. DELISH! However, I would not recommend the s’mores cupcake. It tasted bitter and oily, while the marshmallow frosting was overly sweet.

JapaCurry – Mmmmm, their pork katsu curry will warm your soul. Tender breaded pork cutlets smothered with a savory Japanese curry, all over a heaping serving of rice. Great to eat on a cold day.

Hapa SF – the adobo chicken banh mi is a tasty Filipino take on the Vietnamese sandwich. The chicken was flavorful and moist, while the pickled veggies kept it light.

Curry Up Now – I’ve only had the chicken tikka masala burrito. The chicken was slightly dry, but well dressed by the creamy and spicy tikka masala. Overall pretty good, but I prefer the fresh-out-of-the-tandoori-oven chicken tikka masala naan rolls served at Jack London Square Farmers’ Market on Sundays.

Food trucks that didn’t make the cut:

• Kung Fu Tacos – chicken was dry and the tacos were not particularly memorable.

• The Crème Brûlée Cart – the vanilla bean crème brûlée was bland, and served warmer than room temperature, like it’d been sitting out all day. Bleh.

• Senor Sisig – their tacos were waaaaaaaaaaaay too salty

BITE METER:

Roli Roti – 4.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Chairman Bao – 4.5 bites

JapaCurry – 3.5 bites

Cupkates – 3.5 bites

Hapa SF - 3.5 bites

Curry Up Now – 3.0 bites

Michael Mina – Missing the Original

Michael Mina used to be one of my favorite fine dining restaurants in San Francisco. I loved his witty take on American classics, and would swoon over his seafood creations. The restaurant recently reopened in the former Aqua location (where Mina used to be a chef before parting ways with its owner many years ago), so I was looking forward to being wowed again. The menu is now more Japanese influenced than New American and no longer includes Mina’s creative “trio” dishes…and regrettably, I must say I’m not impressed. While the food is good, there’s nothing that sets it apart. It feels like Michael Mina is trying to imitate a Japanese fusion restaurant, instead of making it his own.

Proscuitto Grilled Cheese Sandwich & Parsnip Soup – a refined take on the grilled cheese. Reminded me of those cute crustless sandwiches that accompany afternoon tea, only more savory and tasty.

Uni Flan with Hamachi Collar – my eyes always light up when I see the word uni (sea urchin) on any menu item. Unfortunately, I couldn’t really taste the uni in this dish. But I did savor the salty and rich hamachi (yellowtail fish) collar balanced with bright notes of meyer lemon and delicate shimeji mushrooms.

Seared Scallops & Pork Belly in Curry Sauce – the scallops were super buttery and perfectly melded with the creamy curry sauce. The flavor of the pork belly reminded me of the Chinese bbq style of “char siu”, but it was dry and misplaced in this dish. Duo of Crispy Fish on Thai Lobster Sauce – the red snapper was surprisingly fishy and needed some lemon to cut the strong flavor. On the other hand, the fried cod was excellent – crispy on the outside, warm and meaty in the inside…and nicely complemented by the rich lobster sauce. The pea shoot and coconut salad was an interesting addition. Prather Ranch Lamb & Orecchiete – a relatively light pasta dish topped with ricotta and slices of lamb shank and tongue (I’m not a big fan of eating tongue, so glad the slices were razor thin). I enjoyed the thickness and home-made texture of the oriecchiete (ear-shaped pasta). Beef Filet & Short Rib – the filet was beautifully executed…velvety tenderness with a light sear on the outside. One of the best filets I’ve had in a while. To my surprise, the short rib was the exact opposite…tough and gummy. I only took one bite and went back to the filet. The Spanish wine paired with this dish was excellent...will have to buy a few bottles (2008 Bodegas El Nido "Clio"). Candied Apple – a delicious deconstructed candied apple with frozen Greek yogurt and mulled cider foam. Passionfruit & Grapefruit Panna Cotta – tart and creamy panna cotta served with a crunchy chicharrón. Jasmine & Brown Sugar Wafers and Chocolate & Honey Lozenges – I didn’t care for the lozenges, but the wafers were my favorite of all the desserts. The wafers were delicate and crispy, while the jasmine added a unique element to the sweetness. BITE METER: Michael Mina – 3.5 bites (out of 5.0)

Ramen Dojo – Sans Slurp

Why do I always find myself driving down to San Mateo for good ramen? With gas prices so high, I wish there were better options in the city.

Ramen Dojo is a tiny place with about 7 tables and a few seats along the counter. Thus, there is inevitably always a line. And the service is inefficient, so the line tends to move slowly. The same person takes the orders, handles the bills, and calls the names on the lists…and often not in the most practical sequence. I try not to get too annoyed as I watch empty tables waiting to be filled while she does other stuff, then slams the kitchen when she seats everyone all at once.

Fortunately, I forget about the wait as soon as my big beautiful bowl of spicy miso ramen arrives. The noodles have the perfect amount of chewiness, and the tender slices of pork just fall apart in my mouth. The quail egg, garlic cloves, and green chives enhance the rich ramen…and I always add a helping of their crunchy, sweet bamboo to round out the flavors. My only wish is that they put more broth in the bowl. The broth is so thick and served in such a small quantity, that it’s more like a stew than a soup you can slurp your noodles with. And slurping your ramen is proper Japanese etiquette! BITE METER: Ramen Dojo – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Bistro Vis à Vis – Cupid Misfires

I’m surprised by the high ratings received by Bistro Vis à Vis on Yelp. There were some creative ideas, but overall the food was just average…not deserving the ~$100/person bill. Maybe it was because their regular menu wasn’t available when I ate here (it was the same week as Valentine’s so they required everyone to have the set menu). Regardless, the service was clumsy and needs work. Our waiter was forgetful and would literally just drop food and wine off at the table without saying anything (he could have at least told us what kind of wine was being paired with each course!). The restaurant also lacks personality. I knew something was awry when I pulled up and found out it was located in a strip mall (it’s hard to overcome the cheesiness of a strip mall even if you are in Marin).

Abalone with Blood Oranges – the fresh abalone from Santa Cruz was coated and pan-fried, giving a unique savoriness and succulence, while the blood oranges added sweetness and acidity.
Mushroom and Shaved Truffle Salad – way overdressed. The tartness of vinaigrette overwhelmed the delicate truffle flavor. And the parmesan crisp was more rubbery than crispy.
Octopus Paperdelle – I forgot to take a photo, but you’re not missing much. I was expecting a rich paperdelle dish, but got pasta in a light broth instead. While the broth developed a good seafood flavor, the octopus was bland and chewy. The table next to me sent this dish back; I was too nice to do the same.

Pork Loin with Potatoes – best dish of the night. The pork was flavorful and juicy. I liked the use of different potatoes (gold, purple, and sweet) and serving them two ways, roasted and fried chips. The roasted potatoes were especially delightful…left ever so slightly raw in the middle to give them a bit of a crunch without tasting undercooked.
Chocolate Cake with Raspberries – dense, sweet chocolate. Nothing more, nothing less.
Okay food. Clumsy service. Weird ambience. Go someplace else.

BITE METER: Bistro Vis à Vis – 2.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Morimoto Napa – A Pearl in the Heart of Napa

Sushi in the middle of Napa Valley?! Seems like an unlikely place to be able to get fresh fish flown in regularly from Japan, but if anyone has the connections and financial backing to make it happen, it’s celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto (known best for his culinary skills and creativity on Iron Chef). And he definitely delivers at his newest restaurant Morimoto Napa…the seafood was excellent.

Uni (sea urchin), Chu-toro (medium fatty tuna), Hotate (scallop), Tamago (egg cake) – Nothing makes me more happy than *really* good sushi. The uni was creamy goodness, the chu-toro melted in my mouth like soft butter, and the scallop was crisp and sweet. I was tempted to order more, but also wanted to try the cooked items. Only the tamago was average; I was hoping it’d be light and fluffy like Urasawa’s.
Foie Gras Chawan Mushi – Intoxicating!! The silky foie gras custard was topped with a sweet soy broth and thin slivers of duck breast…so rich and luscious. I also appreciated the dollop of fresh grated wasabi to give it a bite on the finish. This dish was seriously addicting…I couldn’t stop until I had scraped every single bit from the bowl. Our waitress rightfully called this dish “Morimoto’s crack”…I’m hooked and coming back for more!
Spicy King Crab – I was delighted to see the huge portion of crab. It was sweet, succulent, and elevated by the spicy tobanjan aioli and crunchy tobiko toppings…finger lickin’ good! This dish was even better than I had remembered it from my dinner at Morimoto NY several years ago. My only request for next time would be to use a little less aioli.
Sea Urchin Carbonara – I had been wanting to try this ever since I first visited the restaurant’s website. I was thrilled how the distinct uni flavor and creaminess came through in the sauce as it coated the perfectly al dente noodles (even more so than my uni pasta at Le Bernardin), but unfortunately the dish was a tad too salty. It would’ve been phenomenal without the smoked bacon (did I really just say that?!)
Seafood Toban Yaki – a claypot of lobster, king crab, shrimp, scallop, mussels and clams in a spicy red miso sake broth. To my surprise, the broth lacked depth and a developed seafood flavor…all I got was spice. My least favorite dish of the evening.

Chocolate Banana Dessert – a tasty trio comprised of a banana shake (cold and refreshing), chocolate pot de crème (sweet decadence), and ginger-banana bread with miso caramel (wonderfully light, while the miso rounded out the caramel’s sweetness and gave it an extra dimension)
I really enjoyed my dinner at Morimoto Napa. The food is anchored by Japanese cuisine while also successfully infusing Western flavors and fun. The restaurant’s décor is a little too modern and flashy for Napa, but at least it tries to incorporate the wine country with vine branches along the slate gray walls and using an exposed trunk for the sushi bar.

BITE METER: Morimoto Napa – 4.2 bites (out of 5.0)

Commonwealth - Creativity Without Punch

I applaud Commonwealth for offering progressive food at an affordable price, as well as donating a portion of their tasting menu to local non-profits. The dishes were well composed and creative, displaying a wide range of flavors and talent. Unfortunately, everything was *so* balanced that the essence of each dish was lost. There was so much going on that nothing really stood out. The dishes needed more focus and punch.

Porcini Churros with Huckleberry Jam – These tasted much better than they looked (let's not discuss what they resembled). The flavor of the mushroom wasn’t very prominent, but I enjoyed the warm bready/doughy churro with the tart huckleberry jam.
Grilled Chicken Livers – This was my first experience with grilled chicken liver…the texture is much more stringy and definitely not as elegant as foie gras (duck liver). The flavor of the chicken liver was too strong and mineral-like when eaten on its own. However, it tasted a lot better when combined with the brown rice & black pepper crackers along with the pickled onions and herbs.
Slow-cooked Farm Egg, Matsutake Mushrooms, Barley – More about experiencing the textures, as the flavors were quite subtle. I liked how the soft, creamy egg coated the salty mushrooms and the chewy barley…all washed down with a smooth dashi broth.

Kabocha Pumpkin, Black Kale, Yuba, Coconut Milk – A more refined version of pumpkin curry. The balls of pumpkin and strands of yuba were nicely cooked and coated with a slightly sweet and creamy curry foam.
Sweet Potato Tempura with Sea Urchin – Being obsessed with sea urchin, I was most looking forward to this dish. However, it ended up just being ok. The sea urchin wasn’t that high quality, and I thought it should’ve been better incorporated into the dish instead of just laying next to the tempura. The spicy yuzu sauce had a nice kick though.
Sierra Mackerel on the Plancha, Smoked Potatoes – Least interesting dish of the evening. The fish was meaty and cooked well, but needed more seasoning and acidity…making it bland and boring.
Cinnamon Mille-Feuille, Cardamom Marshmallow, Chocolate Ganache, Burnt Honey Ice Cream - Very creative with a multitude of different flavors and textures. It was exciting and fun to eat each component separately and in different combinations. I really liked the cardamom marshmallow and the sweet burnt honey ice cream, especially with the candied cocoa nibs.
This was one of the rare meals where I didn’t really have a favorite dish of the evening. The food was pretty good overall, but there was nothing that I loved. My dinner felt a little flat and left something to be desired. The tables are also really close together, and the space feels cramped. On the other hand, the service was great with knowledgeable and friendly waiters, and nothing on the menu was more than $15.

To sum it up, I wouldn't mind eating at Commonwealth again, but I also wouldn't miss it if I didn't either.

BITE METER: Commonwealth – 3.0 bites (out of 5.0)

Happy New Year

It's only the beginning of 2011, and I'm already behind on my posts. This is what happens when you drink too much wine. A big thank you to N and S for cooking the delicious food (to be posted at a later date) to accompany these fine beverages. Happy New Year!

Asana – Style Over Substance

Asana is clad with the chic and modern décor associated with Mandarin Oriental Hotels (the one in Tokyo is spectacular!)…dark woods, cool grey tones, fine linens and tableware. However, the restaurant’s food lacked soul and depth. Maybe I’ve been spoiled by bounty of local produce in San Francisco, but I couldn’t taste the freshness of the ingredients the dishes here. They just didn’t sing.

Chilled Watermelon Soup with Maine Peekytoe Crab - light and refreshing with hints of apple, but wish it had a little more kick to it. I also would’ve liked more crab…those little bits were just a tease.

Braised Veal Cheek & Sweet Breads with Fava Beans & Shimeji Mushrooms – this appetizer had immediately caught my eye on the menu, but turned out to be ho-hum. The veal cheeks were moist and savory, but everything else was poorly executed. The sweet breads were mushy and bland (what a tragedy!), and the fava beans and mushrooms had no flavor.
Roasted Poussin with English Peas & Morels – the 28 day-old chicken was beautifully prepared, extremely tender and juicy. Unfortunately, I just can’t get over the sad state of these morels. Lacking that rich flavor of the beloved morels, these tasted like they’d been sitting around for too long and became stale…probably the only time I’ve ever been disappointed by morels (Side note: my most memorable morels experience was at Jean Georges a few years ago…to die for!)
Lamb Rack with Apricot Jam, Wheat, Chocolate-Chili Sauce – the only standout dish of the evening. The lamb was beautiful…nice charred crust while tender on inside, and I loved the sweetness of apricot jam with it. A touch more heat in the chocolate-chili sauce would have elevated the dish even further.
Cherry Parfait Glacé with Muscat Foam – a light and easy way to finish off the meal. The glacé was cross between a semifreddo and a mousse…cool, creamy, and smooth with a hint of cherry tartness.
Final verdict: Trendy hotel restaurant with an interesting menu, but lacked the substance to support it.

BITE METER: Asana – 2.5 bites (out of 5)

Wood Tavern – Already Wanting to Return

During a spontaneous visit to Oakland’s Rockridge neighborhood, I randomly decided to have lunch at Wood Tavern. What a wonderful surprise it turned out to be! I thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant’s scrumptious food and warm Californian bistro/bar atmosphere.

Peach & Burratta with Prosciutto di Parma – I loved the soft and luscious burratta cheese with the sweet peaches and salty prosciutto. Everything tasted so fresh, and the flavors of each component shined. The dish didn’t even need the balsamic vinegar.

“Surf N’ Turf” Sandwich (Oregon sweet shrimp, prosciutto di parma, English cucumber, garlic aioli) – the flavors were great with the interplay of sweet shrimp with cool, crisp cucumber and rich prosciutto. However, the bread was too thick and was too hard to get through, overpowering the delicate components inside. The bread had a nice crunchy texture and would have been better served as an open-faced sandwich. I was surprised by how much I liked their bright and zesty Tavern slaw (I usually detest coleslaw!)
Fresh Pappardelle with Okra, Sweet Corn, Zucchini – absolutely delightful! The pasta was PERFECTION. Everything was beautifully cooked. The vegetables tasted fresh and light, while the sauce also felt hearty. I couldn’t get enough of this dish.
Wood Tavern is a fantastic neighborhood restaurant, and I’ll definitely be back even though it’s not my neighborhood. Heck, I was already talking about what I wanted to eat next time before I even left the restaurant! Now that’s a sign of a quality place with an enticing menu.

BITE METER: Wood Tavern – 4.0 bites (out of 5.0)

flour+water – Good but Overrated

I’ve heard a lot of hype about flour+water, but it took me a while to finally eat here…reservations are tough (only half the tables can be reserved) and there’s always a crowd of people waiting outside for a table. There was also a lot of press about Steve Jobs trying to get a table here but leaving because he’d have to wait. Despite all of hullabaloo, I found my dinner at flour+water to be good but overrated.

Pomodoro Pizza (heirloom tomatoes, caciocavallo, wild arugula) – the flavors were great with the smoky caciocavallo (aged mozzarella) and the sweet, juicy tomatoes, but the consistency was wrong. I’m very particular about thin crust pizzas being crispy, and this whole pizza was soggy except for the outer crust. A bummer since I had been most excited about trying the pizza here.
Chitarra with saffron braised squid, halibut, peppers & tomatoes – a failure. The pasta was overcooked and the seafood was so bland. (Note: I also tried my husband’s spaghetti alla puttanesca with sardines, and the flavors and textures of that dish were spot-on.)
Chocolate budino with espresso-caramel cream & sea salt – finally, a spectacular dish. The budino was like a chocolate pot de crème only much thicker. Perfect combination of sweet, salty, coffee, and creamy.
Because the prices were so reasonable, I would probably give this restaurant another shot…but definitely not without reservations. With such a range of hits and misses, it’s not worth waiting for.

BITE METER: flour+water – 2.5 bites (out of 5.0)